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发现青海:100个最美观景拍摄地

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发现青海:100个最美观景拍摄地

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Editer Recommend

72.91万平方千米土地

8万千米自驾行程

780天秘境探索

131位职业摄影师用车轮和脚步发现青海

100个美丽观景拍摄地

选景原则

地理分类:以地理科学为指导,多元展示地貌景观、自然环境、人文传统。

季节特色:推荐更佳观景拍摄时间,更好的季节去更好的地方。

行走线路:沿着道路推荐周边美景,观景点交通便利,易于到达。

Content Description

本书是《中国国家地理》杂志社与青海省文化和旅游厅合作发起的寻找青海100个*美观景拍摄点项目,通过梳理青海省内的寺庙古建筑、雪峰冰川、湖泊湿地、河流峡谷、油菜花海等旅游景点,从摄影时间、季节和角度,发掘出100个*美的观景拍摄地,将青海的自然之美、人文之美再次隆重地呈现给读者、旅游者和摄影爱好者,重探经典,再寻秘境,以期让更多的人了解青海,爱上大美青海,在这片神奇的土地上享受美景与镜头带来的视觉盛宴,开启一段独特的自助行。

Author Description

李栓科,《中国国家地理》杂志社社长兼总编辑。曾任中国首次北极科学考察队队长。曾长期从事南极、北极和青藏高原地区的地貌、第四纪地质环境演变等方面的研究工作。现任中国科学院地理科学与资源研究所研究员、兼任中国地理学会科普工作委员会主任、中国期刊协会副会长、中国海洋学会理事,第29届北京奥运会火炬手。

Catalogue

序言(中国国家地理杂志社社长兼总编辑 李栓科)

如何使用本书

第一章 夏都西宁

第二章 风情海东

第三章 魅力海西

第四章 圣洁海南

第五章 梦幻海北

第六章 天上玉树

第七章 雪域果洛

第八章 神韵黄南

Book Abstract

发现青海:100个最美观景拍摄地 1 群加国家森林公园
幽野深处,飞临白凤凰
最佳观景拍摄点:
通过干户村的岔道,往群加国家森林公园方向行进。偌大的森林景区,坐落着五处小村庄。来到其中的一处小村落一一上圈村的路口,这里是欣赏群加壮丽风景的最佳据点。
经度: 101 。41' E
纬度: 36。16' N
大地高: 2600 米
观看方位:全方位皆可,朝北最佳。
最佳拍摄季节:四季皆可。6~10 月夏秋季,植被葱郁,繁花竞开,柔风吹拂,生灵跃动,峡谷森林呈现着秀丽多彩的一面。
最佳拍摄时间:全天皆可。晨间或有氤氲雾气,可以拍摄到幽幻缭纱的一面;傍晚时,光线柔和,森林静谧,画面会更显温柔。
群加国家森林公园位于青海省涅中县群加藏族乡,地处西宁市、海东市、海南藏族自治州与黄南藏族自治州交界之处。其名为藏语言译,意为“白凤凰落泣的地方”,森林深处坐落着藏传佛教圣地桑丹梧寺,辖区内保留着古老质朴的蔚族生产、生活和文化传统。
森林公园山势伟岸险奇,河流或狭或阔,呈现出复杂多变的高山峡谷地貌特征。园内植被垂直分布明显,生长着白桦、山杨、青海云杉等乔木,沙棘、杜鹃、高山柳等灌木;鸟类繁多,昆虫资源丰富,生活着马鹿、岩羊、麝等20 余种野生动物,并建有100 万平方米的鹿场。
发现青海:100个最美观景拍摄地 2 塔尔寺
莲谷境地,塔寺显殊胜
最佳观景拍摄点:八塔的东南面。
经度: 101 。34' E
纬度: 36。29 ' N
大地面: 2675 米
现宿方位:正北偏西。
最佳拍摄季节:塔尔寺一年四季均可拍摄。寺内每年举行四次大型法会,分别在农历正月、四月、六月、九月,届时会举行诵经、辩经、施供、展佛、转金佛等各种佛事活动,其中四月法会庆典最为集中。夏秋季光线会显柔和,色彩对比更为强烈,是比较舒适、理想的拍摄时节。
最佳拍摄时间:全天皆可。因寺内法会庆典开始时间较早,且会吸引大量香客、游人,建议前一晚入住寺院附近,或赶在人流、享流高峰前到这塔尔寺,选取合适的摄影机位。
塔尔寺,亦作塔儿寺,因寺庙“先高塔,后有寺”而得名,始建于明洪武年间,位于今青海省西宁市湟中县城鲁沙尔镇。藏传佛教格鲁派的创始人宗喀巴降生于此,其母及信众修建了“莲聚塔”,后世又逐渐将其扩建成集佛殿、宝塔、经堂、僧舍等在内的藏汉风格宗教建筑群。明清以来多次受朝廷册封,历代多位达赖、班禅活佛曾在此进行宗教活动,是蜚声四方的藏传佛教圣地。寺内有艺术三绝:酥油花、壁画、堆绣;每年举行的佛事活动一一“四大法会”不可错过。
从西宁一路南行百余千米,翻越苍翠延绵的拉脊山,来到群加藏族乡辖区,可寻至一处绿色幽境——群加国家森林公园。群加是藏语,意思是“白凤凰落过的地方”。在这片被神鸟眷顾的福地中,山川河谷呈现着青春多彩的面貌,黄河支流——群加河由此开始奔腾,作为众多野生动植物的生长乐园,所呈之景,活泼祥和。
走进高山峡谷间和高原草甸间的原始林海,山重水复,杉杨林立,眼及之处皆是青翠怡人的森林峡滩,吐息之间是满满的清朗意气。雨季时,山顶云雾氤氲,山下时晴时雨,整个森林里充满着不同季节和气候交汇的热闹生机。幸运的话,还能看到白唇鹿、梅花鹿、马鹿、蓝马鸡等森林精灵。悬崖峭壁间还有天然石洞,洞内滴水凝成冰柱,洞外繁花自由盛开,这江湖秘境般的景致,正等待着有心人来一次狭路相逢。
沿着奇秀山水一路徒行,寻至森林深处,会遇见一座高洁清净的白色古寺,那便是桑丹楞寺。这座有着近400 年历史的藏传佛教寺庙,香火袅袅不绝。相传包括六世达赖、九世班禅、十世班禅等活佛,都曾在此举行盛大的宗教法会。轻声慢步于这隐世的寺庙中,闭目,听经,沐风,冥想,借以洗掉尘世的铅华,找回初心。
湟水河畔,莲花山间,坐落于此的建筑楼宇融合了藏汉风格,聚成佛教殊胜之地——塔尔寺。六百多年前,藏传佛教格鲁派创始人宗喀巴在此诞生,开始了他传奇伟大的一生。在大师足迹的缘起之地,这座被后世尊为格鲁派祖庭的寺院,逐渐发展壮大,成为藏民族的佛学渊薮,也促进了多民族情谊交流。
怀着朝觐的心情来到塔尔寺,在寺前广场上为赞颂释迦牟尼一生八大功德而建的八宝如意塔前,已有很多信徒专注地转塔、磕长头,神色庄重,低声祈语。伴着不时传来的诵经声,间或飘来的香火气,沿着主路可参观大金瓦殿、小金瓦殿、花寺、大经堂、弥勒佛殿、九间殿、时轮经院、酥油花馆、藏经楼等。一间间殿宇佛阁,述说着一段段传说和典故,神奇而动人,让短暂抽离尘世间种种匆忙、浮沉、复杂的凡人,不禁沉浸在这佛光闪闪的宗教丛林间,尽情陶醉于这信仰之虔诚,历史之精妙,藏地之奇幻,建筑之魄力,艺术之精湛……
塔尔寺缘起于塔,而后成寺。这塔便是大金瓦殿殿内高贵大方、琳琅精巧的大银塔,传说中塔基之处是宗喀巴大师诞生的地方,塔内还藏有释迦牟尼佛舍利、迦叶佛佛牙,因而被认为是“世间第一庄严地”。此塔的前身,由宗喀巴的母亲及信众共同修建。若是有幸遇到塔尔寺的法会庆典,这神秘隆重的宗教仪式,定能让你大为惊叹。在大经堂前的广场上,寺院僧人会头戴面具,身着华服,手持法器,在粗犷凝重的吹奏、打击乐下,上演极具神秘色彩的舞蹈。祈愿法会上,僧人们开始献供、祈祷、诵经,表达对佛陀的敬意和对世界的祝福。最难忘的要数“展佛”仪式,僧众们会在东方第一缕阳光照射大地时,将高约33 米的佛像唐卡,虔敬地展开于莲花山坡。现场的僧人诵佛功德,信众虔诚膜拜,场面庄严,让人不禁为之动容。
餐饮:
塔尔寺周边有很多家小饭馆,以清真店居多。当然,酸奶、酿皮、甜醅是必不可少的。游客可以选择在这里就餐,也可以选择回西宁用餐。老字号沙力海美食城的羊脖子、黄焖羊肉最为著名。群加国家森林公园附近餐饮地较少。30 千米外有清雅羊肉面片馆,可体验西北风情餐羊肉+ 面片等。
门票:
群加国家森林公园:免费。
塔尔寺:旺季(4 月1 日至10 月31 日):70 元/ 人;淡季(11 月1 日至次年3 月31 日):40 元/ 人。
开放时间:08:00~17:00。
住宿:
塔尔寺周边住宿便捷,配套设施齐全,多集中在湟中县,可供选择的住宿种类、消费层次多样,可根据自身需要择优入住。距离群加国家森林公园20 千米的化隆回族自治县雄先藏族乡扎哈公路附近有宏源招待所、温馨招待所等;游客也可以选择回湟中县住宿,湟中雪域林卡客栈、西宁皓凯自驾休闲营地、湟中盈吉丽豪大酒店以及四星级的香巴林卡酒店均是不错的选择。
风物:
唐卡、堆绣、氆氇、藏毯等藏区手工艺品制艺精良,独具藏族人民的风情和智慧,可在市区商业街巷、湟中县塔尔寺附近结缘购买。
贴士:
塔尔寺为宗教场所,游客须身着长衫、长裙进行游览参观。计划前往塔尔寺的旅客请注意着装。在寺院内部,不能用手摸佛经、佛像、法器等。转经轮时,一定要顺时针转。不能乱摸藏族人的头和帽子。
周边观景拍摄推荐:
卡约文化遗址
自20 世纪初开始,青海河湟地区便陆续挖掘发现了众多新石器时代、青铜器时代的古遗址。卡约文化,因1923 年首先发现于湟中县卡约村而得名,是青海省各种古代文化遗址中数量最多、分布最广的一种土著文化,具有明显的河湟谷地文化特色。可于西宁市区或湟中县乘公交或包车前往。
刘琦庙
又称为“刘琦拉康”“阿米刘琦庙”,位于距塔尔寺1 千米的金麟山(当地百姓称为“西山”)山腰,是塔尔寺的附寺。刘琦庙始建于清代,后毁于1958 年。20 世纪80 年代,十世班禅大师按照原有风格,在原址重建,后又经过多次扩建。自建寺以来,每逢农历初一和十五,香客云集,香火旺盛,人们将阿米刘琦作为财神、地方护法神和当地山神供奉。每年的农历三月十五、七月十五和九月初九, 刘琦拉康都要举行盛大的庙会, 人们云集此处,观看诵经祈福仪式, 热闹非凡。
……
Introduction

《发现青海》序言
提到青海,许多人会想到青海湖,以及这里是长江、黄河、澜沧江的发源地。这些都是对青海的标志性认知,但这远远不够。
青海位于青藏高原的东北部,平均海拔3000米以上,地貌复杂,河流纵横。祁连山、巴颜喀拉山、阿尼玛卿山、唐古拉山等山脉群山连绵,青海湖、柴达木盆地等河湖盆地点缀其间。这里有你了解的遥远与荒凉,也有你不了解的富饶和繁荣,还可以见识到高原的博大,大漠的广袤,更能体会河谷的富庶,甚至宛如水乡的旖旎。
从大尺度上看,中国可以划分为三个自然区域:西北干旱区、东部季风区、青藏高原区。这三个区域的气候、地形、植被等方面各具特点,迥然不同,青海恰好处于三个区域的交汇处,兼具青藏高原、内陆干旱盆地和黄土高原的三种地形地貌,汇聚了大陆季风性气候、内陆干旱气候和青藏高原气候这三种气候的特征,是所谓“一省跨三区”。
雄伟的昆仑山东脉横亘在青海中部,将青海分为南北两部分。昆仑山以南的青南高原区,与辽阔的青藏高原融为一体。青南高原西部是可可西里,这片无人区是我国湖泊分布最密集的地区之一,也是世界上高海拔地区生物多样性集中展示地。这片土地是藏羚羊、藏野驴、雪豹、野牦牛、棕熊等珍稀保护动物的乐土,它们给这片高寒草原带来了勃勃生机。
高耸的雪山和巨大的冰川,在青南高原东部形成高原湿地,不仅滋润出水草丰茂的草甸,更孕育了长江、黄河与澜沧江这三条亚洲大河,滋养了大半个中国和东南亚,素有“中华水塔”“亚洲水塔”的美誉。
在昆仑山以北、青海湖以西,是以柴达木盆地为核心的干旱区。这里是中国地势的第二阶梯,虽然荒漠千里、气候干燥,四周雪山融水却滋养了一个个绿洲,戈壁滩上可以见到胡杨、红柳和骆驼。此外,盐湖和石油更是宝贵的自然财富。
青海湖盆地、祁连山以东和河湟谷地,受益于东部季风深入内陆的最后滋养,气候温和,土地肥沃,以十分之一的土地养育着青海省三分之二的人口,是青海最发达的农业区和经济、文化中心。
青海也是历史上中原与西部文化交流、民族融合的重要舞台和必经之路。千百年来,羌、汉、匈奴、月氏、鲜卑、吐蕃等各民族往来迁徙、传承文化、创造历史,丝绸之路薪火相传、商旅不断、地脉、人脉、文脉紧密相连。
今天,青海汉、藏、回、土、撒拉、蒙古等各族人民又用勤劳的双手书写新的传奇。
早在2006年,《中国国家地理》推出了《青海专辑》,从“一省跨三区”的地理特征出发,鲜明而独特地把青海定义为“对边疆,像内地;对内地,又如边疆”的地方。三江源、青海湖、柴达木盆地、可可西里等西部热点地区也频繁地出现在杂志的报道中,尤其是2016年在三江源成为国家公园试点后,《中国国家地理》又特别制作了《三江源国家公园》增刊。
此次,《中国国家地理》杂志社与青海省文化和旅游厅合作,共同推选出 “发现青海100个最美观景拍摄点”,通过地理六度信息的全新概念,结合新媒体的功能,从旅行者的视角为广大读者呈现青海省的各个标志性景观,展现极致的自然风光与深厚的人文景致。
多少年来,青海的雪山巍然耸立,河水奔流不息,《中国国家地理》对青海这片“一省跨三区”的广袤土地始终保持着热情甚至是崇拜。《中国国家地理》诚挚邀请朋友们和我们一起来感受青海的神奇魅力。
李栓科

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