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Jingdong book

旧日滋味:民国名家美食记

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《旧日滋味:民国名家美食记》是一本与“吃”有关的书,与“味”有关的集,字里行间弥漫的是浓郁的“古早味”。五十余篇精选自民国报刊杂志的小品文,既是民国名家对旧日生活的感怀回味,又是家乡故园心口相传的饮食札记,清淡墨香中透出的是时间的陈酿,是旧日的滋味。
Content Description

民国人家的饮食札记,旧日生活的感怀回味,五十余篇精选自民国报刊杂志的小品文,谈吃,辨味,雅俗共赏。既有名人雅士的鼎煮中西,又有普通人家的故乡滋味。痴人谈吃,饕餮盛宴,人间有味,浮世清欢。
Author Description

张亦庵(1895-1950),原名张其讱,又名张毅汉、亦庵,广东新会人,幼年失怙,13岁在《月月小说》上发表短篇小说《两头蛇》(一名《印度蛇》),早年与包天笑合作,翻译国外作品,其作品多见于《小说大观》《小说画报》《小说月报》等刊物。抗战后因生活所迫迁居香港。

夏丏尊(1886-1946),名铸,字勉旃,号闷庵,别号丏尊,上虞崧厦人。我中国著名文学家、教育家、出版家。出版大量中外名著,并编辑发行《中学生》《新少年》《新女性》《一般》《救亡报》等进步报刊。

徐蔚南(1900-1952),名毓麟,笔名半梅、泽人,江苏吴江人。1924年,加入新南社,从事文学创作,以《山阴道上》誉满文坛。1928年起任世界书局编辑,主编《ABC丛书》,共出版152种作品。抗战胜利后,主持《民国日报》的复刊工作。
Book Abstract

编辑手记:天下一吃场
天下一吃场,浮世有清欢。
这是一本与“吃”有关的书,与“味”有关的集,字里行间弥漫的是浓郁的“古早味”。五十余篇精选自民国报刊杂志的小品文,既是民国名家对旧日生活的感怀回味,又是家乡故园心口相传的饮食札记,清淡墨香中透出的是时间的陈酿,是旧日的滋味。
旧日滋味是什么?
是郑振铎与三五好友的谈锋宴趣家常味道,是张亦庵物色吃香辨味的考究品评配伍斟酌,是朱自清的鼎煮中西异国风味,是鲁彦心心念念的宁波汤团与杨梅,是王统照童年记忆中“粒粒珊瑚珠”的玉蜀黍,是柳雨生无法拒绝的阴雨时节热气腾腾的一碗“鱼生及第粥”,是朱湘“咬得菜根,百事可作”的青豇豆红辣椒,是郁达夫客居福州时对饮食男女风土物产的信手梳理,是夏丐尊的“开门七件事”,是李之模的“天下
一吃场”……
旧日滋味是什么?
是北平东直门四眼井产的豆汁儿,是零食贩手中活灵活现的“龙睛鱼”,是大上海初夏街头的“四骑士”,是“食在广州”与“海上风味”的见仁见智,是桂林茶杯大的一碗碗马肉米粉,是成都浣花溪边的“不醉无归小酒家”,是绍兴的干菜腐乳霉菜头,是常熟的告化鸡鲜栗羹,是苏州石家饭店的鲃肺汤,是嘉兴的南湖菱,杭州的虾蟹面,是广州的烧腊,澳门的乳鸽,是岭南的野蛮异味,是秦淮的六朝烟水……
旧日滋味是什么?
是沪上春食,是南国冷饮,是秋日皇城根儿的涮羊肉,是各色米果熬出的腊八粥,是与生活息息相关的烟酒茶糖,是别具风味的南北点心缤纷蔬果……
无论旧时或今日,生活推着人们不由自主地奔波,在故土与异乡间辗转,在离散与重聚中轮回,在“名利场”打转,在“吃场”交际。走得越远,家乡的滋味越清晰;待得越久,异乡的味道越熟悉。
山的野味,海的鲜味,泉的清洌,情的浓郁,这些滋味在光影流年的穿梭快进中融入了对乡土的追忆,对生活的感喟,对未来的寻觅,久而久之,便不只是滋味了,而是一种情怀,一种生活哲学。
岁月是神偷,偷走万物,不着痕迹;生活向前走,经典传统总会一点一滴渗入“新”的因子。旧日滋味,慢慢便失却了“古早”的风韵。
滋味总是旧的好,恰似一杯清茶,足抵十年尘梦!
张亦庵食在广州乎?食在广州也!
有一篇短文,谈及“食在广州”的问题,说广东菜不但烹调得法,而且色香味三者俱全。他指出了广东菜的优点和缺点,论优点,可以占全世界第一位,缺点是少变化。此外又列举了许多地方的菜色而为上海所能吃得到的。结论是“与其说食在广州,毋宁说食在上海”。因此知道这位先生是老饕中人,否则安得如此精详细到?
在食论食,鄙人以为该文所论,尚颇有点值得商量之处。“食在广州”这句话里所指的“食”,我以为不一定专指菜肴而言,应该连一切可食之品都包括在内,菜肴仅居食道之一而已。
食之品,可大别为二:一为天然的,一为人工的。而菜肴只是人工的食品之一品,未足以概括所有食品。人工的食品,除了菜肴之外,尚有点心、糕饼、蜜饯、糖果,以及其他杂食之类。
啊!说到了这些,不由我不想起广州燕塘外沙河那里的沙河粉,荔枝湾的艇仔粥(上海虽亦有以艇仔粥之名目出卖,但迥非此物),九龙城的馄饨面(港九阔人往往乘好几块钱的汽车去吃一碗馄饨的),广州各大茶居特约“三姑”手指的薄皮粉果,河南成珠的小凤饼,佛山的盲公饼(断非所谓高桥松饼之流所能望其项背),沙湾的炖
奶露,又如广州所制萝卜糕、芋头糕(上海制者尚可差强人意),济隆、万隆所制的干湿蜜饯糖姜(这两家所制的糖姜,远销欧美,现在上海有粤人所设之新万隆者,不制糖姜,而专销广东方法制造的广东乳腐),广茂香之咸脆花生,十七铺一带的蜜饯番薯干、草果(即是陈皮梅的远祖前身)、麦芽糖。这些东西,绝非他处所有,有亦远不能及。这些食品,大都不必以色取悦于人,而香味之美,则无以复加。
至于天然出产之食品,在果品中则荔枝固已名闻世界。上海虽亦有广东运来的荔枝买得到,然而品斯下矣。不知荔枝之中,种类亦甚繁,最佳者为糯米糍,肉厚、汁富,而核小得像绿豆红豆;桂味亦佳品;次为黑叶,为槐枝,为大肉荷包。上海所能购得者,多是低级趣味的大肉荷包之类,盖佳品产量不多,未能供应运出外埠。至于增城挂绿,则为无上上品,不唯笔者未经寓目,即老于广州者亦未必人人能吃过。据闻增城仅有二树为此种。皮壳鲜红,而络以绿丝一线,其色其香其味,迥异凡品。帝制时代,每年结实,由地方官择其优者若干枚,专驿入贡。可怜当时尚没有飞机,所以皇帝得尝此果,已在“一日色变,二日香变,三日味变”之后了。
此外如石硖之龙眼(即桂圆)、白糖甜黄皮,花埭之杨桃、番石榴等皆极可口。至于上海人所习见熟知的香蕉、甘蔗,在广州只当作最寻常的贱品。莲藕、荸荠之类,则只合拿放在小菜中充当起码的配角,绝对不能当作水果而登大雅之堂。
广州菜肴之腴美,蒸制得法,固其一因,而得天之厚,也是一个重要的条件。同是一只鸡,除了烹调方法不算,其天然的肉味,广东所产的鸡总比别处的好。上海的浦东鸡已算有点资格,然而比之信丰鸡依然望尘莫及。鸡如是,猪亦如是,甚至田鸡亦莫不如是。由此看来,可见得不只关乎烹制,而饲养方法亦有关系了。菜蔬中的白花芥,爽脆清嫩,也是绝品,这又关于土壤气候与培植之得宜了。
在上海而吃广州的食品,似乎尚有点隔靴搔痒。未曾到过广州者,真不容易体会得到食在广州的一个“在”字的奥蕴。
以天产而论,固然各地都各有其名产,如洞庭山之白沙枇杷,奉化的玉露水蜜桃,天津的良乡栗,天津、烟台的苹果、葡萄、对虾,浙东一带的蚶子,阳澄湖的毛蟹。这些东西,断非广州所能有,即如雪里蕻一味,到了广州,也成为席上珍品。醉蟹一只,其价值在广州约等于一鸡。以烹调的方法而言,各地也各有其特殊出色的技巧,如炒鳝糊一味,如糟鸡,如酱肉,则断非广州厨师所能办得好。不过以天时、地利、人和(鼎鼐调和之和)三者合并而论之,则确实不能不让广州为独步。
话得说回来,目下我们正在忙着轧油轧糖之不暇,户口米尚不足以充饥,正应该共苦而尚未到同甘的时候,说了这一番谈饮谈食的废话,未免有点身在十字街头,遥想象牙之塔之感。画饼望梅,徒然令人气沮。因为读了某先生的几句话,使我觉得如鲠在喉,吐之为快耳,不敢作美食主义之提倡也。
选自《新都周刊》1943年第2号
……

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