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无知的游历

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无知的游历

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《无知的游历》看点:
1.陈丹青首部游记。继《退步集》《荒废集》等杂文写作获得极好口碑之后,从2009年开始,陈丹青尝试写作游记,本书完整收录作者在土耳其、俄罗斯、德国、匈牙利所写长篇文字,这不但是陈丹青首部游记,也是陈丹青在杂文之外,第一次尝试中长篇写作,从终的文字看,这些篇章独具特色,充满历史人文气息,是难得一见的耐读而有韵味的游记。
2.一位画家眼中的异邦风土。陈丹青以画家的眼光,记录了四地鲜为人知的风景,并凭借自己对于绘画、音乐及人文历史方面的兴趣和知识,提供了丰富的营养,除此之外,本书更收录了300余幅在各地的现场和历史图片及陈丹青速写手稿,全书四色印刷,锁线胶订,由陈丹青精心编排,不但是好的游记,也是精美而独特的旅行指南,值得珍藏。

Content Description

从2009年到2011年,陈丹青应《华夏地理》之邀,每年赴一地,先后游历了土耳其、俄罗斯、德国和匈牙利四国,并写成长篇游记,极具个人特色地勾画出了彼时彼地的人文、自然景观,牵连出此时此地的所思所想,《无知的游历》即为这四篇文字的结集。除游记本身外,本书还附有300余幅历史和现场图片,以及陈丹青旅途中所画速写手稿。

Author Description

陈丹青,1953年生于上海,1970年至1978年辗转赣南与苏北农村插队落户,其间自习绘画。1978年入中央美术学院油画系深造,1980年毕业留校,1982年定居纽约,自由职业画家。2000年回国,现居北京。早年作《西藏组画》,近十年作并置系列及书籍静物系列。业余写作,出版文集有:《纽约琐记》《多余的素材》《退步集》《退步集续编》《荒废集》《外国音乐在外国》《笑谈大先生》《归国十年》《谈话的泥淖》《无知的游历》《草草集》。

Catalogue


游历和游记
航向拜占庭(上篇)
航向拜占庭(下篇)
雅斯纳亚·波里亚那(上篇)
雅斯纳亚·波里亚那(下篇)
雅斯纳亚·波里亚那(尾声)
从布达佩斯到拜罗伊特
Book Abstract

李斯特。佩斯城主街安德拉什大道旁,帝国音乐厅门首是他巍然端坐的全身雕像,不远处是李斯特音乐学院,数层之高的正墙,众多雕刻围绕着正中间如教主般巨大的李斯特石刻,街心公园浓荫下又是他的大铜像,疯狂弹奏,长发飞起像是凝固的波浪,不消说,他的故居挂满他的油画肖像,每个角落是他的铜像、石雕像、木雕像。一架过于豪华的大钢琴琴首竖着雕饰繁复的银质大烛台,顶端三尊小小的雕像分别是贝多芬、舒伯特与门德尔松,烛台正中,由一对天使左右拱卫着,是青年李斯特浮雕像。看来他的同胞太过崇拜这位天才,让音乐众神烘托他,特制这枚烛台敬献李斯特。有哪位音乐家被这般无节制地做成雕像?李斯特显然被他的时代宠幸有加—他至今被宠幸:午后故居关闭两小时,馆员说,这两小时履行的每日功课,是仔细擦拭每件雕刻与用具。它们一尘不染,但为当天下午的开放,必须擦拭,然后小心地放回原位。
隔壁,毗连故居的另一端,是李斯特研究院,也是李斯特音乐学院的小型分院。楼道里坐着一对匈牙利少男少女,怀抱提琴,偷偷抽烟,等候试奏的传唤:多好看的东欧脸,惺忪无辜,像鹿,或者羊。当我徘徊故居,隔壁传来琴声:先是焦虑的西贝柳斯,接着是门德尔松的英姿勃发,静息片刻,有人说话,再接着,徐缓的巴哈。
安德拉什街左右夹道排列着一种雅致的树,树叶细嫩,色青灰,叫不出名目。树下有长椅,背对故居的一枚椅面漆成黑白琴键。坐了一坐,望见李斯特故居对过大楼的灰墙面排开一长列小小的照片,配着圆形黑框。为什么将人像嵌在临街墙面上?过街细看,照片鹅蛋大小,黑白,瓷质,如墓园的遗像,有军人、官员、工农、演员,还有稚气未脱的男孩,典型社会主义公民。巡看十数枚,每件遗像标明的卒年都在1956—1957年。我怦然心跳,猛想起匈牙利事件,很快,找到了纳吉的肖像:那位著名的改革首脑,戴着眼镜,像个教授—“邓小平是中国的纳吉,应该把他送上绞刑架”,这是江青说的话,1976年江青被捕,我在文件传达会上听到这句最高指示。此刻我不确定这份小小的知识—其实是记忆—事关匈牙利,还是中国,但我立刻重新审看所有遗像,心跳更剧烈,遗像中的目光依次看着我:他们全都死于绞刑。
十分钟后,我站在大楼内部地下室的小小行刑室门口:如摆放工具的储藏室那么小,水泥墙面,黄灯照亮一具简单的绞刑架,顶端垂着脆裂的麻绳,结成圆圈,基座平放着死囚站立的木墩。外间是当年审讯室,有扇门通向狭窄的走廊,走廊两端十余间囚室,每间五六平方,顶端小窗被漆黑,角落横着木床。每一囚室的墙面挂着三四位囚徒生前的照片:将军、高官、记者、艺术家,还有一脸忠厚的东欧胖妇女,烫着五十年代流行的卷发—这座大楼建于1880年,1937年归属匈牙利法西斯组织“箭十字党”党部,名曰“忠诚之屋”。1944年,大楼地下室辟为秘密监狱,惩治反战者、犹太人和吉卜赛人。战后,苏匈联手发起清洗运动,逾百万人受审,被刑者过半。1956年,这里由匈牙利国家安全部接管,那些遗像的主人就在地下室等候提审,随即一个接一个吊死在那枚木桩—现在这些冤魂走出地牢,以他们的面容,朝向大街和路人,年复一年,提醒城市—谁曾目击行刑么?此刻我停在绞架两米不到、被拦索止步的门边。那木桩,沉默,简单,如现代艺术的装置,只是展品。我看着,期待内心恐惧,试着借助想象……这是无法继续的想象。电影试图想象,还原死亡。《卡廷惨案》里每位波兰军人被分别押进行刑室的一刻,霍然明白了,浑身一紧,抽搐着,同时,如约好似的,颤声叨念《圣经》。没有一位受刑者能够念完,后脑轰然一枪。现代电影模拟血浆飞溅,太过真实—那么,绞刑,当人被套牢、猛然悬空的一刻,究竟怎样?
我没想到在布达佩斯遭遇这份经验,没想到这座被称作“恐怖之屋”的纪念馆正在李斯特老家对面。李斯特也没想到。他的魏玛故居的窗帘和帷幔出于同一设计:横向三色粗条纹。那是他的帝国政府远道致送的礼物,赋以匈牙利国旗三色图案,意思是,请不要忘记祖国—很难,尤其是,不便对中国同胞详细描述这座纪念馆(仅仅一座楼装得下我们的故事吗),2002年,匈牙利右翼党派建立了这座不归属当地博物馆系统的纪念馆—被纳粹占领时期和1956年,构成馆内陈列的两组受难者,在一至四层展室中,我重温大量苏式社会主义实物,包括无数份人事档案。影像室不停播映着1956年拥向街头的布达佩斯人民,唱着歌,昂扬快乐,是那种珍贵的粗粒子黑白影像。人丛中哪几位日后被吊死在地下室?博物馆中央天井停着一辆废弃的苏军坦克,昂起炮口,坦克边,直达楼顶的高墙,一幅紧挨一幅,密密麻麻贴满逾千名受难者的照片,太过密集了,难以看清他们的脸,以至整面墙一片斑驳的黑白。
记这一笔,此下如何叙述?这是我此行最重要的经历。之后我出神端详大街上的匈牙利人,越过他们的脸,看见那排遗像,那尊绞刑架,内心是对匈牙利人的伤痛和尊敬,还有,锐利的,带着苦味的嫉恨—我只能称之为嫉恨—这小小国家能有这样一座纪念馆,我们没有。什么也没有。“若为自由故,两者皆可抛。”一句诗出在一个国家,原来并非虚妄。种性与历史是什么关系呢?匈牙利地接西亚,早古,据说匈奴人被汉军驱逐,赶到这里,之后两千年,鞑靼人与土耳其人进攻欧陆,大致最先抵达匈牙利。博物馆许多大画画着古代欧亚的争战,皇宫露台的帝王骑马像两端各有一位被降伏的石雕战俘:我不了解匈牙利历史,但知道1956年事件。中国迄今尚且谈不得1957年,年轻人谁晓得远在布达佩斯的惨剧和内伤?
那么谈李斯特。现在我有点明白他的乐句何以柔情万种,顷刻,悲怒交加。我不喜浪漫主义音乐的动辄铺张,但在李斯特的祖国,我想听听好久不听的李斯特。停留匆匆,不及寻访音乐厅,翌日在皇宫左近老教堂听一场为游客举办的演奏会—如我在布拉格听过的那场一样—或许经济改革兼旅游业迟于捷克,本地的出演者尚在十二分认真献艺谋钱的阶段,个个棒极了。舒伯特的《圣母颂》由一位男中音演唱,歌喉浑圆,恰如其分地带着东欧人格外擅长的多情的转调。音乐在欧洲无分国界,头一次聆听男声《圣母颂》,我忘了是在布达佩斯,默默听着,心里又看见那排小小的遗像,那尊绞刑架。
……

Introduction

这本书所收的三部长篇“游记”,是丹青老师应我所请,在2009至2011年间为《华夏地理》杂志写的特稿。按当时的如意算盘,每年去一个国家,写一个题目,将来结集成书。然而这些年媒体行业风云变幻,这个计划被迫中止了。很遗憾,我们因此错过了几乎是注定的更多精彩。
从积极的一面看,这批“游记”应视为陈丹青写作的新尝试,而它们的水准亦足以令我感到自豪,当然,是属于编辑分内的自豪。
陈丹青是那种能予人许多想象空间,不断制造惊喜的作者,这是我促成此事的初衷。归国以来,他在美术领域之外的言说和书写,并不以专业知识见长,却言之有物,不仅令人有所思,更能引人入胜。这番成就,除了驾驭语言文字的非凡能力以外,自然还要归于见地。
在我的视野里,论文字与见地,陈丹青是二者综合评分最高的作者。见地有复杂的构成:知识、感性、直觉、阅历,洞察力,等等。至于写什么,真的很重要么?老实说,即使我不是地理杂志主编,约陈丹青写稿仍然会是第一选择。
话是这么说,具体写什么还是需要讨论的。丹青老师在各种场合跟人说,是我请他写这些“游记”,可是他讨厌游记。(列维一斯特劳斯在他的游记名著《忧郁的热带》里也说:“我讨厌旅行,我恨探险家。”)事实上,我从未想过约他写“游记”,地理杂志也并不以刊登游记为荣。我们之间的“误会”一直持续到此刻。不过,重要的是,他毕竟写出了他从没想要写的“游记”,而我觉得,这几篇文章发表在地理杂志上,恰如其分。
游记是中国传统文学体裁。古人的,今人的,我们上学时读过不少。中国式游记的“中心思想”是寄意山水,所谓仁者乐山、智者乐水,从一开始,山水在中国人心目中是有道德属性的。因此,中国的游记其实是教育篇章,而传世的游记名篇,大多作于宦游文人仕途坎坷之际,借景抒情,托物言志。“为旅游而旅游”的徐霞客是个例外,他可能是中国绝无仅有的职业旅行家。
当然,这不是我想要的“游记”。
西方的“游记”复杂得多。近代,地理大发现和工业革命带来交通工具的升级,教育的普及则让普通人接触新知,并对世界充满好奇。旅行,从此和新知与启迪联系在一起,我以为这就是中西“游记”的差异。
启迪与新知,代表着无限可能,旅行的出发点和目的地也有无限种可能,西方旅行文学的内容,随之空前丰富,迅速成为重要的文学分支。除了博物学家、人类学家、考古学家和传教士的众多旅行记录,十八九世纪以来,多数欧美作家一一从歌德、海涅、狄更斯到毛姆、海明威和本雅明一一留下了重要的“游记”作品。二战之后,“后工业”的西方又掀起前往东方寻找启迪的新浪潮、新风气,印度音乐,香格里拉,背包客,隐士,禅……造就了一群以旅行文学成名的作家,我能想到的名字有:PaulThcrOux,olinThubrc,n,Bruce hatwin,BillBrYson,PeteIessler。
一百多年来,美国《国家地理》杂志记录了上述西方旅行文学的清晰轨迹。许多重量级旅行文学作家长期为该杂志撰稿,写出了自己最初的传世名篇,成为这份杂志引以为傲的资本之一。但是,这类文学中没有中国人的作品。
我期待并试图促成中国人看世界的旅行文学,但并不是中国人如何印证西方人已经发现的世界,而是写出中国人自己的眼光。发现,并不仅仅意味着登上最高的山,潜入最深的沟,越过最后一道自然屏障而抵达前人未到之处——如果是这样的话,西方探险家没给我们留下太多机会——发现还意味着从熟视之物看出新意,从平凡之事看到美,从混沌中看见秩序,从无情中写出有情,游记,是考验观察和见地的文体。
前面说过,陈丹青是我心目中最理想的作者。我对他说:你想去哪儿、想写什么、想怎么写,都行,只要有所发现,有话要说。这就是为什么过去三年,除了亲自陪他上路,我没有给他任何建议,也没有在三篇游记中,删除一个字。
2013年11月26日

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Terms and Conditions of Yami E-Gift Card

If you choose “Redeem automatically” as your delivery method, your gift card balance will be reload automatically after your order has been processed successfully;

If you choose “Send to Email”as your delivery method, the card number and CVV will be sent to the email address automatically;

Any user can use the card number and CVV to redeem the gift card, please keep your gift card information safely. If you have any trouble receiving email, please contact Yami customer service;

Yami gift card can be used to purchase both Yami owned or Marketplace products;

Yami gift card will never expire;

Yami gift card balance does not have to be used up at once;

All rights reserved by Yami.

Return Policy

Gift card that has already been consumed is non-refundable.

Sold by JD@CHINA

Service Guarantee

Yami Free Shipping over $49
Yami Easy Returns
Yami Ships from United States

Shipping

  • United States

    Standard Shipping is $5.99 (Excluding Alaska & Hawaii). Free on orders of $49 or more.

    Local Express is $5.99 (Available in Parts of CA, NJ, MA & PA). Free on orders of $49 or more.

    2-Day Express (Includes Alaska & Hawaii) starts at $19.99.

Return Policy

You may return product within 30 days upon receiving the product. Items returned must be new in it's original packing, including the original invoice for the purchase. Customer return product at their own expense.

Sold by JD@CHINA

Service Guarantee

Yami Cross-store Free Shipping over $69
Yami 30-days Return

Yami-China FC

Yami has a consolidation warehouse in China which collects multiple sellers’ packages and combines to one order. Our Yami consolidation warehouse will directly ship the packages to your door. Cross-store free shipping over $69.

Return Policy

You may return products within 30 days upon receiving the products. Sellers take responsibilities for any wrong shipment or missing items. Packing needs to be unopened for any other than quality issues return. We promise to pack carefully, but because goods are taking long journey to destinations, simple damages to packaging may occur. Any damages not causing internal goods quality problems are not allowed to return. If you open the package and any quality problem is found, please contact customer service within three days after receipt of goods.

Shipping Information

Yami Consolidation Service Shipping Fee $9.99(Free shipping over $69)

Sellers in China will ship their orders within 1-2 business days once the order is placed. Packages are sent to our consolidation warehouse in China and combined there. Our Yami consolidation warehouse will directly ship the packages to you via UPS. The average time for UPS to ship from China to the United States is about 10 working days and it can be traced using the tracking number. Due to the pandemic, the delivery time may be delayed by about 5 days. The package needs to be signed by the guest. If the receipt is not signed, the customer shall bear the risk of loss of the package.

Sold by JD@CHINA

Service Guarantee

Free shipping over 69
Genuine guarantee

Shipping

Yami Consolidated Shipping $9.99(Free shipping over $69)


Seller will ship the orders within 1-2 business days. The logistics time limit is expected to be 7-15 working days. In case of customs clearance, the delivery time will be extended by 3-7 days. The final receipt date is subject to the information of the postal company.

Yami Points information

All items are excluding from any promotion or points events on Yamibuy.com

Return Policy

You may return product within 30 days upon receiving the product. Items returned must be new in it's original packing, including the original invoice for the purchase. Customer return product at their own expense.

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Jingdong book

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About the brand

Jingdong book