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Jingdong book

奢侈的(修订版)

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本书是一部关于名品牌的经典书。
揭露奢chi品牌黑暗内幕的头一本书,一部诙谐幽默、见识广博的社会史。
本书历数了奢chi品在20世纪巨兽般的崛起、扩张、普及的过程,也揭露了如今奢chi品行业的暴利源头。《奢chi的!》既受到奇幻、幽默作家的热烈推荐,也得到严肃作家的亲睐;它总是被时尚编辑所引述,被时政记者所推崇。
娱乐界、时尚界、新闻界的必读经典,电影明星、流行歌手、国际名模的贴身读物。
一切从你迈出的第一步开始。穿着深色西装、戴着无线耳机的男人安静地为你拉开厚重的玻璃门,店里鸦雀无声,装修时髦但充满极简主义风格,强调铬黄等中性色彩。身段苗条、话语轻柔的女店员在热情恭候顾客光临,小聚光灯把商品打磨得像件艺术品。就像一个编织得过于精美的梦境,除了最后的刷卡、签名可能会让你惊醒。

Content Description

“奢华”一度是拥有祖传遗产的贵族世界的专享。“奢华”的历史,就是一部关于传统、精致、骄奢的购物史。然而,今日的“奢华”却被打包贩卖给身价数十亿美元的国际大公司,这些大公司在意的只是规模扩张、公众注意、品牌认知度、广告,当然还有巨额利润。本书是对富丽堂皇者投去的强硬一瞥,并追问:“奢chi品为何失去了光泽?”
本书是一部深度剖析时尚界黑幕的纪实类时尚读物,系统地介绍了奢chi品牌的发家史,颠覆了奢chi品牌从前在大众心目中的形象。

Author Description

黛娜·托马斯(DanaThomas),《新闻周刊》巴黎分社资深文化与时尚作家,她从1994年开始为《纽约时报》杂志撰写报导,并且在各种刊物发表文章,包括《纽约客》《哈泼时尚》《时尚》《华盛顿邮报》与伦敦的《金融时报》。她也是《哈泼时尚》杂志澳洲版巴黎特派员,以及巴黎英美媒体协会与海外媒体俱乐部成员。1996年到1999年,托马斯在巴黎的大学教授新闻学。
过去15年,她为《华盛顿邮报》《新闻周刊》与《时代》杂志巴黎分社撰写关于时尚与精品事业的报导,她探讨精品工业黑暗面的文章鞭辟入里,揭发普拉达、古驰与巴宝莉等名品牌不愿让大众知道的真相。

李孟苏,艺术,设计和时尚文化专栏作家。曾任《三联生活周刊》主任记者,《elle》资深编辑主任,撰写了十多年的设计文化类报道和专题文章。著有《为生活的设计》《庄园与下午茶》《小小不列癫》等,译有《艺术地生活》《奢chi的!》。

Comments

你可能负担不起造价200万人民币的定制晚礼服,但你可以花300块选一支口红,或者花2000块拥有一个钱包,上面同样有Chanel、Dior、LV的精致LOGO。 你可以说,这也是小小的奢华梦。但,这离奢华的本义有多远?
——《南方都市报》编辑 米亚

假如你曾好奇,为什么一个女人非得买一只价值三千美元的手提包,或者为什么她没有某种颜色的唇膏就会自惭形秽,本书以作者观察到的现象渐进地解释这一切。黛娜·托马斯出色地剖析这些流行现象,而这只健康的名品牌怪兽仍然在伸展台上恣意卖弄。
——《纽约邮报》编辑 里察·强森(Richard Johnson)

黛娜·托马斯是个不畏强权的记者,披露出有多少精品是多么不值一哂。这是一则让人手不释卷的故事,诉说将名品牌转变成全球性商品的男人与女人的故事。
——《华盛顿邮报》专栏作家与《崇高的思想》作者
乔尔·阿肯巴克(Joel Achenbach)

无数的书本告诉你,人们迷恋精品是因为他们认为那代表奢华阶级,那像是一个梦,那也让你的品味变成一种外在标示,而这本书告诉你的正好相反!
——成英姝(台湾作家)

我们生活在一个昂贵和不昂贵——但并不廉价的时代,我讨厌廉价这个字眼——可以很好共存的时代,这在时尚界还是首次发生。
——卡尔·拉格菲尔德

Catalogue

序 1
Introduction
第一部分 19
Part One
第一章 奢侈品行业的诞生 21
One: An Industry is Born
第二章 奢侈品航母 49
Two: Group Mentality
第三章 全球化 93
Three: Going Global
第二部分 123
Part Two
第四章 明星闪进你眼里 125
Four: Stars Get in Your Eyes
第五章 成功的香味 171
Five: The Sweet Smell of Success
第六章 手袋里的秘密 213
Six: It's in the Bag
第七章 血汗工厂和劳工危机 265
Seven: The Needle and the Damage Done
第三部分 295
Part Three
第八章 走向大众 297
Eight: Going Mass
第九章 伪货朋友 341
Nine: Faux Amis
第十章 新型的奢侈品市场 375
Ten: What Now ?
第十一章 新奢侈 405
Eleven: New Luxury
原注 439
Notes
参考文献 453
Bibliography
图片说明 455
Photo Credits

Book Abstract

行李箱是路易威登的核心产品。19世纪中期,路易·威登创办他的企业之际,行李箱是旅行的必备品,就像今天带轮的旅行箱一样。那个时候,人们外出旅行一走就是几个月,多的时候要带50个行李箱,装的东西从衬裙到瓷器,无所不有。今天,路易威登每年还要出品约500个行李箱,但很少再用于旅行了。就算是旅行要用——这往往是出于怀旧的缘故——它们的主人也会提前用邮递或海运,甚至私人飞机托运走。多数路易威登行李箱,不管是新的还是旧的,会像艺术品一样摆在家里,或者用做置物架、咖啡桌甚至吧台。
路易威登的行李箱多少还照着150年前的工艺制作,大多数行李箱在巴黎郊外工人阶级聚居的塞纳河畔阿涅勒区的作坊里生产。走进路易威登的作坊,仿佛从一片单调、土黄色的堪萨斯州步入五彩缤纷的奥茨国。穿过粗壮古树围起来的浓密草地,和修葺齐整的玫瑰花圃,是一座风格简洁的两层乡村风格小楼,有银色的锌皮屋顶,白色拉毛水泥外墙,精美的装饰边线。路易·威登,这位出身卑微、勤劳的手工艺人,在1859年把家迁出肮脏嘈杂的巴黎城区,来到这里建起了这座房子。房子后面,是有100年历史的L形两层作坊,220名工匠在这里工作,每年制作出数百个行李箱,缝制几千个手袋。路易威登有14个官方认定的皮具制作点,11个在法国,2个在西班牙,1个在加利福尼亚州的圣迪马斯。
工匠们在一楼宽敞的木材车间里用欧克美榄木(Okoume)制作路易威登的行李箱框架,这种木材产自非洲,轻巧却坚硬。在链接铰位时,工匠们在箱子里面粘上一块结实的帆布,外面也粘上一块。1845年,路易·威登先生发明了这一工艺,取代了那时采用的庞大笨重的金属架。帆布不会破损,开关都很方便,而且使得箱子盖的表面很平整。行李箱的外部材料通常采用印有路易威登首写字母的花押字,或米色和咖啡色棋盘格的防水帆布,覆盖在木箱和铰链上。行李箱的边角处镶了用热压和冷压铸型的铜料或皮料。边缘的装饰线俗称“Lozine”,由多层纸张和布料压缩、浸泡在锌溶液中制成。楼上,工人们在钉杨木带子,把它们钉在箱子中央、边缘的Lozine装饰线、边角和五金件上。敲钉子的声音大极了,在“锤子车间”工作的8个工人都戴上了耳塞。箱子里层,粘上一种叫“威登呢”(Vuittonitte)的珍珠灰棉质帆布,或者用名为“奥坎塔拉”(Alcantara)的人造绒面革做衬里;最后再缝上卡其布,用来固定物品的位置,而卡其布上有棉布条织出的“LV”字样。所有工序完成后,行李箱便送去清洁、质检,然后送去包装、货运。
在阿涅勒区的作坊里,同时也做手袋,年产量达数千个。其中有长方形的轮船包(SteamerBag),这种轮船包全部由手工制作——它最初设计于1901年,本来是给搭乘蒸汽客轮的旅客做衣物袋的,如今成了路易威登最受欢迎的产品。轮船包和一些手袋会采用富有异国情调的皮料制作,比如鳄鱼皮、鸵鸟皮。特别定制的手袋则全部由一个工匠完成,而非出自流水线。每年,路易威登要接受约400~500个订单。有些订单只是照葫芦画瓢,比如有人要求以路易威登在1868年为法国探险家皮埃尔·萨沃里昂尼.德.布拉萨的非洲刚果之旅所设计的皮箱床为蓝本,按原样做一个新的;有的订单则希望对现有的产品稍微做点儿改动,比如珠宝盒用鳄鱼皮做表面,而不是有花押字的布料;或者要求路易威登根据客户的喜好设计。我在阿涅勒的作坊时,一位工匠刚刚做好一个棋盘格网球袋,可以装两支球拍,球袋用了两周时间才做好,全球仅此一对。
路易威登的其他产品则是在流水线上生产出来的,大部分工序由机器完成。在二楼一间光线充足的大房间里,12个女裁缝正在机器上制作路易威登的牛仔布花押字打褶手袋(PleatyHandbag),总共有数百个,每个手袋售价1150美元。这款手袋特别受欢迎,往往几星期内就要追加订单。“高额的利润来自于……工厂,”伯纳德·阿诺特曾解释说,“我们以有组织的方式进行生产,这样产量就能高得惊人。工厂是个纪律严明的地方,每个动作,每个环节的每个步骤,都事先由最先进最完善的制造工艺设计好了。这和最先进的工厂如何造汽车不同,我们要分析产品的每一部分该怎么做,每一种材料该到哪里去买,在哪儿能用最合适的价格买到最好的皮料,商品该如何定位?仅一个钱包就可能经过上千个生产作业,而我们的每件产品都是这么完成的。”
今天,路易威登家族有3位成员受雇于路易威登公司:帕特里克一路易(Patrick-Louis),创始人的第五代,负责特别定制,并担任家族代言人;他的小儿子贝努瓦一路易(Benoit-Louis)生于1977年,是巴黎总部监管特别定制业务的经理;他的大儿子皮尔一路易(Pierre-Louis)在阿涅勒作坊担任工匠。2006年春天我参观阿涅勒作坊时碰到了皮尔一路易。他很和善,面色异常苍白,有浅褐色的眼珠、剪得极短的深色头发、招风大耳。他穿着格子衬衫和牛仔裤,外面套了件白色实验大褂,大褂口袋上有棕线绣的路易威登标志,拿着几块做珠宝盒用的帆布从一个工位走到另一一个工位。皮尔曾在电脑业短暂地工作过一段时间,一年半前加入路易威登公司。他以前参观过各地的路易威登工厂,对工匠的手艺极为心动,于是他向路易威登现在的所有人阿诺特要求一份工作。阿诺特说:“当然可以!”
“我爱这家公司,”皮尔告诉我,“我的血管里流着路易威登的血。”
说完他便回去工作了。
众所周知,奢侈品起源于古老的欧洲王室,开风气之先的是法国宫廷,那儿为挥霍铺张的生活方式树立了典范。17世纪,法国国王亨利四世的第二任妻子玛丽·德·美第奇,穿了件绣有32000颗珍珠和3000粒钻石的礼服出席她孩子的受洗礼。
……

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周销量 600+

$1.66 $1.99 83折
Yami
欣葉
2种选择
欣叶 御大福 芋头麻薯 180g

周销量 600+

$1.66 $1.99 83折
Yami
欣葉
2种选择
欣叶 御大福 芋头麻薯 180g

周销量 600+

$1.66 $1.99 83折

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