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传奇在路上:除了金合欢、干酪锅、香料、向海洋鞠躬的城市、穹顶、酒浆、大蒜、四季的云层,我们什么也

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传奇在路上:除了金合欢、干酪锅、香料、向海洋鞠躬的城市、穹顶、酒浆、大蒜、四季的云层,我们什么也

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从文艺青年的巴黎,到莫奈笔下变幻的诺曼底云层,从瑞士的干酪锅,到全世界游子心目中的好吃名单,张公子佳玮为你一一道来。
《传奇在路上》,张佳玮的旅行游记,为你讲述发生在路上的那些传奇。

★一切传奇都发生在路上
张佳玮,人称信陵张公子,博闻强识、文采过人,活跃于豆瓣、知乎、虎扑等社区,所到之处,妙笔生花。
生于无锡、曾居上海的他,现长居巴黎,一边做自由撰稿人,一边攻读艺术史。
在巴黎游学间隙,张公子走遍法国、西班牙、意大利、荷兰等等地方,他会因为读到的一个传奇故事,就抬腿出发去找寻当地风景;也会因为对美食的执着,探访某个城市不可错过的老店。当然对于随身携带写作家什的张公子来说,他更喜欢将读到的故事、听过的传奇,写进面前的曼妙风景里,于是就有了这本书。

★如何在全世界优雅地掉书袋
读书和旅行,在张佳玮的笔下发生了奇妙的化学反应。在他眼里,巴黎的一条日耳曼大道,就是一道文学大师们相遇的移动风景;诺曼底透过云层的光线,和着莫奈笔下的精妙变幻;而阿尔勒路边的向日葵和薰衣草,正像是路过了梵高作画的场景。
所以他笔下的香榭丽舍大街,就是半部从公元5世纪开始的王室炫耀史,一趟诺曼底旅行,等于隔空和莫泊桑、莫奈攀谈;而海洋城市巴塞罗那,遍地都是海明威和高迪的影子。
当然,热爱美食的张公子,走在哪里都不忘和大家分享那些让人口舌生香的美食记忆。从西班牙的海鲜饭,到阿姆斯特丹的杜松子酒,瑞士吃到的让人难忘的干酪锅,以及让人垂涎的法国小龙虾,都在这本书里引诱着你。
和许多旅行游记不同的是,张佳玮的旅行文字里有故事,有传奇,也有活色生香的日常生活。翻开这本书,和普通的旅行导览迥然相异,更像是进入了一场书和风景的VR游戏。

★看过大海与天涯,才懂得珍惜沙发和小龙虾
在张公子的书里,旅行可以很简单。旅行可以就是去到另一个城市,走,看,走饿了吃,走累了睡。来去都孑然一身,跟朋友说起时也不必亮照片和纪念品,只是简单地说一句“嗯,那地方我去过。”
但是不去那里,你可能就不会知道,他在书里说的,“到日落时,海水蓝得像要吸收星辰,让你觉得喝一口,身体都会凉透。”
还有这样的,“那时节,威尼斯公爵宫把门一关,里面做壁画的大爷们挨个报名,凑起来就是一部美术史必背名录。”
以及这样的,“《罗马假日》里,格里高利·派克为什么骑自行车载奥黛丽·赫本玩罗马呢?理由之一是:他俩一坐公车,要么失窃,要么就迷路啦。”
这是张公子佳玮的一本游记书,像一尾沉入水里的鱼,让旅行中那些活色生香的感受涌来,如水流般变幻姿形、光影离合,包裹在你的周围。
中国zui美的书设计师周伟伟操刀整体设计,用字体的变换,来展现阳光和海水的曼妙风情。
Content Description

《传奇在路上——除了金合欢、干酪锅、香料、向海洋鞠躬的城市、穹顶、酒浆、大蒜、四季的云层,我们什么也没见过 》,张佳玮的私人旅行书,打开一种“在现场”的读书方式。像一尾沉入水里的鱼,让旅行中那些可以诉诸声色的体验感受涌来,如水流般变幻姿形、光影离合,包裹在读者周围。
每个时代的人,都会厌倦反复的日常生活,希望有一个诗意的世界,即便那个世界可能危机深藏。如果科技将现实生活的悬念取消,那么就去旅行,到那些科技无法触及的世界,继续斑斓明丽着。这个道理,许多人都明白。所以《大话西游》的英文叫做A Chinese Odyssey,“中国奥德赛”。一切传奇都发生在路上——在我们无法证伪的那些,传奇的路上。
Author Description

张佳玮,生于无锡,长居上海,现在巴黎,自由撰稿人。知乎百万粉丝级人气作者,天涯访问量过千万,虎扑全民偶像,豆瓣著名文艺青年。著有《代表作和被代表作》《世界上有趣的事太多》《爱情故事》《无非求碗热汤喝》《迈克尔•乔丹与他的时代》《科比》等。
Catalogue

巴黎的夏天
巴黎的冬天
19世纪的巴黎
文艺青年的巴黎
香榭丽舍
里斯本与波尔图
诺曼底和布列塔尼
普罗旺斯,大蒜的味道
格拉斯的香水
巴塞罗那,海洋的城
塞维利亚四月书
龙达,私奔之地
佛罗伦萨的历程
罗马,伟大城市的豁免权
威尼斯的颜色
希腊,痛苦与幸福
话说阿姆斯特丹
瑞士与干酪锅
传奇都在路上
旅行与艳遇的幻觉
全世界的他乡游子
跑步时,何时会情不自禁笑出来
被编造出来的“欧洲贵族式奢华”
一切实用的贵族教育都是骗人的
舌尖上的日本史
印度人不吃咖喱粉
各地大师的吃法
世界上有多少种早饭的吃法
看过大海与天涯,才懂得珍惜沙发与小龙虾
一场旅行的开始与结束
所谓命运,都是早已安排好的化学反应
Book Abstract

《巴黎的夏天》

巴黎的夏天来得晚。五月底的北京,已热到人穿不下衬衫了,巴黎还容你穿薄风衣。下过阵雨,晚上出门,温度还会跌进个位数去。

夏天的征兆,始现于水果店。水果店门口的时鲜铺面,犹如季节的调色盘,冬则单调朴素,入夏便鲜辣火烈。樱桃来得早,浓红得泛黑;李子随之,金黄灼目。你有时穿着衬衣,躲开阳光,走进楼宇阴影里,微微一抖,“真冷”;看一眼樱桃,“噢,还真是夏天季节……买些回去吧!”嚼着,酸甜适口,嗯,夏天是来了。

白昼渐长。早晨天空由黑泛蓝,还是五点钟光景,黄昏却被无限推迟,八点了,日头还悬在楼顶——虽然巴黎那些19世纪70年代左右建的新古典主义建筑老楼,普遍低矮一些,太阳也未免落得太慢;到九点,阳光隐去,天空灰蓝,到十点过,天空变成深蓝色。所以在公园长椅上坐着,或者沿塞纳河走,会发现七点多了,草地聊天或临河钓鱼的人们,还不散去——没法子,光看阳光,还像是下午呢。

欧洲许多老建筑都没空调,一半是装起来,得把房子开膛破肚,太琐碎——经典的老欧洲房屋都是百岁文物;一半是没必要。在巴黎、佛罗伦萨和罗马,租房时候,房东经常会补一句,“没空调”。除非你的房间在阁楼上——夏天阁楼日头大,会存满阳光,到午间,墙壁滚烫,所以情况特殊——否则大家都无所谓。巴黎入夏也不热,经常是一整个七月,单日最高温度27到29摄氏度而已。真热急了,可以开电风扇。年纪大些的老人家,会深情念叨几句印度和越南。老法国人,有些是在亚洲殖民地出生的,与杜拉斯有类似的身世。于他们而言,亚洲就是没有季节之分的天气,是茂密的丛林树影(张爱玲说过:马来的丛林,仿佛玻璃杯中喝干了水留下的绿茶茶叶),是不那么清澈的河水,是百叶窗、香料、茶、自法国远道邮寄而来的通俗小说,以及吧嗒吧嗒响动的电风扇。

巴黎夏季主要的体现,还是阳光。与许多高纬度城市一样,阳光明亮璀璨,但不烈也不凶。午后天空还是蓝得很干净,不会被阳光兑得太淡,云团蓬松雪白,很好看。塞纳河水平时泛绿或灰蓝色,在夏天会粼粼闪动蓝光,河道宽阔处,蓝色很纯粹。因为不烈,所以除非极怕晒,也不必特意躲到咖啡馆屋檐下去。

阳光对巴黎的帮助,实在巨大。因为巴黎是座旧城,太旧了。巴塞罗那路宽,罗马楼低,巴黎兼两者之长。夏季到来,天空宏伟广大,你可以轻易追溯一整条长长的云如何在天空斜倚横躺,不用担心被楼房切割了视野。晴天多,天空广袤,阳光是最好的衣裳和首饰,1876年的新古典主义老大理石阳台,在2014年的阳光下,也辉煌夺目。卢浮宫们的历史,能追溯到五六百年之前;小巴黎大多数房屋,都在19世纪70年代那次不朽的大改建中造起。虽然,1823年巴黎人开始大规模用玻璃和钢铁制造拱廊,到底民众还是反对——当年修铁塔都被全巴黎人民骂了许久呢。阳光不足的灰暗天色下,这座城老迈抑郁,让人想起老黑白电影里那些颓唐的故事;但到了夏季,阳光明丽,那些妆化得粗疏华丽,一望就知道来自美国或南欧、大胆露胳膊露腿的游客姑娘们,让这城市像个巡游于阳光之下的露天展览馆。

虽然不热,但夏季的阳光,还是容易让人疏懒。会有骑自行车的,在窄小路径上,半打着瞌睡,趴在前车杆上慢悠悠地晃荡;被阳光直射的一楼办公室,办公桌旁的人会打开窗,对着阳光伸懒腰,然后考虑怎么睡个午觉;阳光太好了之后,大家都愿意在咖啡馆坐下来,要份冰饮,这时候少点一份含咖啡因的,多点些含糖量高的,似乎也不那么罪恶了。

巴黎有些博物馆,很依赖阳光的明丽,比如卢浮宫的中庭,比如奥赛钟楼,比如大皇宫的穹顶;秋冬多阴雨,室内也晦暗,看展览也让人心情沉郁;夏季则明亮得多;夏季卢浮宫中庭,阳光披拂于大理石古希腊雕像肩膀头发上,真有希腊半岛牧歌之美丽。

我很怀疑巴黎人的情绪是热胀冷缩的。冬天感情淡漠,记忆模糊,大家见了面都像是点头之交。到了夏天,大家一起感情饱满、记忆明晰,见了面都欢天喜地、炽热甜浓,乐意说话。

如果光和水一样有浮力,巴黎夏季的阳光就很适合游泳。阳光明亮饱满,想来浮力很大,游着不必怕累;哪怕累了,也能在大朵云或云一般连绵结实的绿树梢头休息。意大利南方的阳光就差了一点:太灼人了,在其中游荡,大概会淹死人。



《普罗旺斯,大蒜的味道》

我家虽在江南,父亲却爱吃蒜,还是生吃。在老江南人看来,这似乎很奇怪:蒜味那么重,吃了别上公共汽车了!

我母亲,自诩是水乡城里人,认为修养厚度与口味重度成反比。葱蒜韭菜口味重,修养就有问题,对蒜味尤其戒惧不已,如见蛇蝎。我小时候,我爸喝粥,剥蒜,满桌蒜皮后,拈着个蒜头,嚼;看我眼睁睁看他,便也给我剥了个,塞我嘴里。“好吃不?”

我眉眼扭曲,满嘴辣里发甜,嚼了会儿,猛吞了一大口粥,“好吃!以后还要吃!”

我妈便觉得:天要塌了!家里怎么出了这么俩玩意儿?

在世界的另一些地方,蒜是神物。

西方医学的老祖宗、希腊的希波克拉底先生,认为大蒜这玩意天下无敌,几乎包治百病:可以利尿,可以通便,可以发热御寒,简直是天赐之宝;和希腊特产的橄榄油一配合,味道更是让人直上天堂。古希腊人航海,吃大蒜、橄榄油就鱼,这辈子就满足了。雅典公民,觉得橄榄油炒个蒜,加个煎鱼头,一顿饭有滋有味!妙在人吃大蒜,除了有味,还杀菌解毒,不易生病,能当药使,神了!
十字军时期,欧洲人健康状况都差,但嗜吃大蒜的诸位,防疫能力飞升,一时百毒不侵。这事儿被医生发现,觉得大蒜是海外仙方。于是中世纪末期,大蒜流行西欧,调味料卖出了药的价钱:防瘟疫治感冒的万灵丹,对付黑死病的杀手锏,据说挂在脖子上,还能代替十字架,吓得妖魔鬼怪屁滚尿流!

在哥伦布发现新大陆、把辣椒番茄这些东西引回欧洲之前,地中海居民主要的人生乐趣,便是将大蒜捣碎,配上荷兰芹,蘸鱼、蘸面包、蘸烤肉,无往而不利啊!

法国人一般要吹物产丰富、饮食美味,首推普罗旺斯风味。而所谓普罗旺斯风味为何呢?答:大蒜味。19世纪时,诸位在巴黎的大师,每到冬天就头疼脑热,心情阴郁,要去南方晒晒太阳,心情才能舒畅。大仲马说:他当年,坐在马车里离开巴黎,不看窗外,都能觉得自己进了普罗旺斯。为什么?因为闻到了健康、丰硕、活泼、健壮的大蒜味!

是,如今大家自然都说,普罗旺斯是薰衣草味、玫瑰味、晚香玉味,但很遗憾,对法国人而言,普罗旺斯主要的动人处,就是大蒜。将大蒜捣碎,与橄榄油拌上,是普罗旺斯菜的基本调味风格。

蛋黄酱里,加橄榄油与大蒜,与意大利干酪丝一配,往鱼汤里倒,就是著名的马赛鱼汤。一锅贻贝,用大蒜焖煮出来,就是普罗旺斯风味;如果你用奶油和白酒,大家只会扮个鬼脸,“诺曼底人才这么吃”。

烤得的面包,要蘸蒜蓉蛋黄酱吃才对得起它。

吃鹅螺,店主如果体贴,会端上蒜泥,以及,“专门配合蒜味喝的白葡萄酒”。

在圣十字湖附近,店家愿意吹嘘他们的明虾,配蒜最有味;你礼貌地表示“我也不是特别爱吃蒜”,店家的表情立时阴郁,看你的眼神也从“这哥们很讨人喜欢”,一变而为“这厮不会想拐走我女儿吧”。

南法对于蒜的热爱,胜于一切。如果给他们选择,是美味的蒜油蛋黄酱,还是一块鲜血淋漓的牛肉?普罗旺斯人大概会选前者——在他们思维里,如果不调味,牛肉哪有蒜好吃?

非只普罗旺斯如此。西班牙,只要是靠海地界,都爱吃蒜。塞维利亚和巴塞罗那,都有一道tapas下酒小菜,做来极简单:橄榄油,蒜蓉,红辣椒,用来焖虾。焖熟了吃。这里还有讲究。中国人讲究热油炒葱姜蒜来炝锅,但西班牙人觉得不妥。蒜的味道,那是多么细腻有味,怎么舍得用热油炒呢?要保持油温平衡,慢慢地,细细地,不能冒泡到咕嘟咕嘟的程度,轻柔地将蒜味焖出来,再来焖大虾,如此,才有鲜美的海味啊!

上道的老板在焖虾时,会给你先上一篮子面包,一碟大蒜,大家立刻笑逐颜开。最后蒜蓉虾上来了,虾吃完,大家就用脆面包来蘸蒜蓉橄榄油:这才是精华所在,虾在这里,都可以是配角。

意大利有种细面条做法,似乎北部更多些:是蒜末与洋葱末炒过,下大量的奶油淹没,奶油与葱蒜味混融为一之后,下煮好的细面条,急速拌匀,趁热吃。也极佳。大仲马当年说奶油与葱蒜混合,是所谓“粗俗的香味”,但对年轻人的饥饿肠胃来说,再没什么比这更有诱惑了。如果跟意大利人说中国人吃面也爱就蒜——我认得的一位营口朋友道:吃面不就蒜,等于杀人不见血——意大利人一定默默点头,举蒜致敬。

话说从头。大蒜这事,最后如何在我家流传开的呢?且说我女朋友若初次去我家时,我妈千万叮咛我爸,千万耐住吃蒜的野蛮劲,不要让人家看我们像乡下人。见了我女朋友,我妈煞是满意,背地里不住夸人如何闲雅大方云云。高潮在某次晚饭,我妈问想吃什么蔬菜,空心菜还是青菜;我女朋友客气几遭,过不去了,就说:“蒜蓉炝炒个空心菜吧。”

我爸看着她:“你爱吃蒜?”
“可爱吃了。重庆人都爱吃吧。”
我爸回头看着我妈,摆了摆头。

那是我这辈子见过,我爸最得意的一瞬间。

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