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[Yamik Open Course | Live Content (4)] Reasonable Cleaning (Prevention of Acne)

【Yami Open Class|Live Content (4)】

Lesson 2: Reasonable Cleaning (Prevention of Acne)


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We have done these days What???

Before, we shared a lot of dry skin care products of [Yan An Tang] in the sun list

9From September 26th to September 29th, [Yan An Tang] was brought to the WeChat group of Yami Skin Care Open Class

1 hour a day The most scientific skin care basics

Full of dry goods

The editor of Yami will organize the content of the live broadcast and share it with those who are too late to listen to the live broadcast~


---The main topic is coming---


Oily is a very troublesome problem for those with oily skin. In fact, large pores, acne and acne are all related to each other. So, let's start with the enlarged pores and blackheads and whiteheads caused by too much oil.

 

In the last lesson, we told you about the basic structure of the skin. We mentioned that hair follicles and sebaceous glands share the same outlet. Usually Under normal circumstances, sebum will be secreted normally every day, and then it will be excreted along the hair. However, due to hormones or some stimuli, the secretion of sebum may be accelerated. This will cause some problems.

 

As mentioned earlier, the composition of sebum mainly includes triglycerides, squalene, wax grease, etc. The consistency of the sebum. Once the sebum is excessively secreted, it may clog the pores. After drying, it will harden and finally form a horn plug.

 

Of course, there are keratinocytes in addition to sebum that block the opening of the hair follicle.< /span>

Keratinocytes are always metabolized, and there is a metabolic cycle in which excessively worn or aged keratinocytes are discarded. Once, this process There is a little problem in the keratinization, such as the speed of keratinization becomes faster, and too much waste keratin is produced, and the enzymes that work in it may not be busy or work for some reason. At this time, the waste keratin cannot be thrown away. , causing blockage of the follicle opening.

Abandoned cutin blocks the opening of the hair follicle, further making it difficult for the sebum secreted to pass through. When the two conditions are combined, the opening of the hair follicle is blocked. If the blockage can be removed in time, the pores may shrink. If they remain blocked, the pores will lose their ability to shrink and become larger.

Of course, this process is also related to our skin's own elasticity and pores

span> shrink Ability related. Shrinkage ability is related to sunlight ultraviolet rays and skin aging Relevant. If the skin is too old and has no elasticity, the pores will easily become larger and cannot be retracted.

 

There are two types of clogged pores, blackheads and whiteheads.< /p>

The head of the pore blockage can come into contact with the outside air, and this part of the sebum will oxidize and turn black. It is white. This is the cause of blackheads, and blackheads are also called open comedones. If the angle plug stays in the skin without contact with the outside world, it is whiteheaded comedones, also called closed comedones. 



If you have acne, you can correspond to the picture above (different stages of acne). span>

The earliest are blackheads and whiteheads, which are mostly manifested as uneven skin, rough skin, and enlarged pores. If this problem is not solved in time , the outlet of the hair follicle in contact with the outside air will be blocked by the angle plug.

 

In our skin, there are all kinds of bacteria. Some anaerobic bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes, had no chance to rebel. Now When the hair follicle is blocked, these anaerobic bacteria become active in the absence of oxygen. A large number of cytotoxins are released at the same time. At this time, our immune system will be exposed to the alarm, and inflammatory cytokines will be released. Triggered. Then neutrophils and macrophages are called out to destroy the bacteria. This elimination process will bring about an inflammatory response, and the acne that is not red or painful begins to slowly turn into red and stinging pimples. If not further treated at the papular stage, the wound develops abscesses, which reach the pustular stage.

 

Many people can't help squeezing the pustule when they see it, but squeezing it at this time may cause more serious problems.

First, a lot of bacteria may be introduced. Second, bacteria and pustules may be squeezed into the dermis (blackheads, whiteheads, pus It was originally only a problem of the epidermis). At this time, the problem has become bigger. Until the pustule stage, we can also consider it as a skin care problem, and we can consider using skin care products to solve it. If the dermis is endangered, it may lead to the final nodule Or the appearance of cysts. Some people have complex acne on their face or a large area of acne, which is already a problem of the dermis, and even the subcutaneous fat is inflamed together. At this time, you can't just rely on skin care products to get rid of it. I have to go to the doctor.

 

Especially the pustules under the nose and the upper lip area (we call it the danger triangle), please remember not to stimulate it. It may cause Bacteria enter the blood vessels and directly enter the brain, thus threatening our lives. Squeeze out the cysts and nodules that may be formed by the pustules, and it is easy to leave scars at the end. Because it penetrates deep into the dermis, the resulting acne marks are difficult to deal with (It only affects the acne marks on the epidermis, and the skin can generally be repaired by metabolism).


For different stages of acne, our treatment methods are also different.

The best treatment is of course prevention, don't let the pores get clogged. The first thing to do is to control oil, and the second is to prevent excessive hair follicles The third is to prevent bacteria.



Let's talk about oil control first. Oil control is actually related to many things.< /span>

First, eating foods high in sugar or salt can easily trigger a hormone in our body [IGF-1]. It will mediate and accelerate the secretion of sebum. Therefore, a high-sugar and high-salt diet will make Friends with oily skin are more likely to have acne problems. Here is the question of eating spicy food. There is no scientific basis for eating spicy acne. Generally, hot pots that are very spicy usually have high salt content, so it is very likely to be high salt. impact.

In addition to diet, there are also issues of work and rest, staying up late. These two states can affect sebum secretion. And stress can also affect hormones in the body secretion, leading to accelerated secretion of sebaceous glands.

Finally, there is a case of normal hormones in the body, such as puberty or other reasons for the menstrual cycle. Related factors, such as androgens, will Accelerates the secretion of sebum.

 

So what can be done to help control oil?

First, diet. One can add B family of vitamins, it itself has oil control effect. A little zinc salt can be added. This can help prevent excessive keratinization of the hair follicles. Since the enzymes involved in discarding waste keratinocytes require the activation of zinc, zinc deficiency can cause the enzymes to fail to work, resulting in the accumulation of keratin in the hair follicles.< span>

 

Second, when it comes to external use on the skin. Consider niacinamide or vitamin aAlcohol products. The use of niacinamide actually requires a long-term process. VitaminaAlcohol may be relatively quick and you can see results in a week or so. However it is more irritating and the skin will dry out and then peel . This means that your skin is intolerant and can only be stopped. Of course, niacinamide actually has such a problem. More importantly, there is a part of niacin in niacinamide. Some people are intolerant to niacin, and the skin Rash will appear. Therefore, it is recommended that you test on the wrist or behind the ear before using it. You can continue to use it if there is no problem after the test.

 

About the hyperkeratosis of hair follicles.

In fact, a lot of hyperkeratosis is not caused by the skin itself. It is because the products we use are causing some irritation to the skin. Picture There are some ingredients that are easy to cause acne, you can refer to it.


We also mentioned some principles of the influence of lauric acid and oleic acid in the explanation of the first class. Of course, we can't beat it with one stick. All products that contain these ingredients should be considered. After all, the reaction of the individual skin and the specific content of the ingredients should be considered. Everyone still needs to try and find the most suitable skin care products for themselves. p>



Finally talk about reducing bacterial exposure.

The above picture shows the shape of a mobile phone. This is a British experiment, in fact, the mobile phone is placed in a petri dish It can be grown into very large plaques.

Someone asks why you always get acne on one side of your face, so you can consider whether you often answer the phone with your phone attached to one side of your face. And Consider whether you like to sleep on your side when you sleep. Therefore, especially for some students who are prone to acne, they need to pay more attention to the cleaning of mobile phones and pillow sheets, and regular disinfection and sterilization. Similarly, forehead acne can be considered as the cause of air bangs. In addition , the problem of frequent acne around the mouth may require a test for Helicobacter pylori in the stomach.

There are also some people who are prone to acne on the front and back of the chest (where there are more sebaceous glands). In this case, one should pay attention to the clothes Don't cover too tightly, and don't use skin care products that are too heavy. In addition to paying attention to these, you can also consider seeing a doctor and prescribing some medicine. If it is bacterial folliculitis, you may prescribe some antibacterial drugs such as clindamycin. If If it is fungal folliculitis, something like ketoconazole may be prescribed. These must be bought according to the doctor's prescription. Sometimes we can also try some anti-dandruff shampoos, because some contain ketoconazole .Of course, this is just a suggestion.

 

Sulfur soap for acne is quite controversial.< /span>

Some dermatologists recommend using it because sulfur itself has a bactericidal effect. There are also a large number of doctors who do not recommend it. Soap is a washing process. The contact time between the ingredients and the skin is very short, and it is difficult to say whether the effect is good or not. On the other hand, sulfur soap is very irritating to the skin, which will cause the skin to become drier and drier. The skin barrier function is destroyed, but the gain is more than the loss. .

 

Here we finish the prevention of acne breakouts.

(To be continued...)


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【亚米公开课|直播内容(四)】 合理清洁(痤疮粉刺的预防)

【亚米公开课|直播内容(四)】

第二课之 合理清洁(痤疮粉刺的预防)


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这几天我们做了什么???

之前我们在晒单中分享了【言安堂】大量的护肤干货

9月26日-9月29日【言安堂】在 亚米护肤公开课 微信群中带来

每日1小时 最科学的护肤基础知识

干货满满

亚米小编将陆续整理直播的内容分享给来不及听直播的各位~


---正题来了---


出油是油皮的朋友非常困扰的问题。其实毛孔粗大、粉刺和座疮互相之间都是有联系的。所以,我们先从出油太多导致的毛孔粗大以及黑头白头讲起。

 

上节课我们给大家讲过皮肤的基本结构。我们提到一点,毛囊和皮脂腺是共用一个出口的。通常情况下,皮脂会每天正常分泌,再延顺着毛发排出。但是由于激素或是某些刺激等原因,油脂可能会加速分泌。这样就会出现一些问题。

 

之前提到,皮脂的组成主要包括甘油三酯、角鲨烯、蜡脂等,属于半固脂,有一定的稠度。一旦皮脂过度分泌,就可能堵在毛孔处。后期慢慢干掉后发硬,最后就形成角栓。

 

当然,堵住毛囊口的除了皮脂之外还有角质细胞。

角质细胞一直在代谢,有个代谢周期,过度磨损的或老化的角质细胞就会被丢弃。一旦,这个过程中出现了一点问题,比如角化速度变快、废弃的角质产生过多,那些在其中作用的酶就可能忙不过来或者因为某些原因罢工了。这时废弃的角质就没办法被扔掉,从而引起毛囊口的堵塞。

废弃的角质把毛囊口堵小,进一步导致分泌的皮脂难以通过。两种情况一结合,毛囊口就被堵得死死的,毛孔堵塞后被撑大。这时如果能及时把堵塞物弄出来,毛孔还可能回缩。如果一直堵着,长年累月,毛孔便会失去收缩能力而变大。

当然这个过程还跟我们皮肤自身弹性和毛孔收缩能力有关。收缩能力跟阳光紫外线还有皮肤老化有关。如果皮肤过度老化没有弹性,毛孔就容易变大无法回缩。

 

毛孔被堵分两种情况,黑头和白头。

毛孔堵塞物的头能接触到外界空气,这部分皮脂会氧化变黑。底下没有接触到空气的部分还会是白色的。这便是黑头的成因,而黑头也叫作开口粉刺。如果角栓呆在皮肤内没有和外界接触,就是白头的粉刺,也叫闭口粉刺。 



大家如果有痘痘的话可以自行对应上图(痘痘不同的阶段)。

最早就是黑头和白头,多表现为皮肤的不光滑、粗糙、毛孔变大。如果这种问题没有及时得到解决,毛囊和外界空气接触的出口就会被角栓堵住。

 

本身我们皮肤里面有各种各样细菌存在。一些厌氧菌,比如痤疮丙酸杆菌本来没有机会造反。现在毛囊口堵住了,在隔绝氧气的情况下,这些厌氧菌就开始活跃起来。大量繁殖的同时也释放出大量细胞毒素。这时我们的免疫系统就会接触到警报,炎症细胞因子会被触发。接着中性粒细胞、巨噬细胞就被调出来消灭细菌。而这个消灭的过程就会带来炎症反应,原本不红也不痛的粉刺开始慢慢变成发红刺痛的丘疹。如果在丘疹阶段没有得到进一步处理,伤口就会产生脓疮,到了脓疱阶段。

 

很多人看到脓包会忍不住去挤,然而这个时候如果去挤它就可能会导致更严重的问题。

第一,可能会引入大量细菌。第二,细菌和脓包可能会被挤到真皮层(黑头、白头、脓本来只是表皮层的问题)。这个时候问题就搞大了。一直到脓包阶段,我们还可以认为是护肤的问题,可以考虑通过护肤品来解决。如果危及到真皮层,就可能导致最后结节或是囊肿的出现。有些人脸上的复合型痘痘或者是连成一大片的痘痘,就已经是真皮层的问题,甚至皮下脂肪都一起发炎了。这时就不能只靠护肤品去祛痘,得去求助医生了。

 

尤其是鼻下和唇上区域(我们叫做危险三角区)的脓包,大家记得不要去刺激。有可能就导致细菌进入血管,直接进入脑部,从而威胁到我们的生命。挤掉脓包可能形成的囊肿、结节,最后很容易留下疤痕。由于深入到真皮层,最终形成的痘印是很难处理的(只影响到表皮层的痘印,皮肤一般是可以代谢修复)。


针对不同阶段的痘痘,我们的处理方法也是不一样的。

最好的治疗当然是预防,不要让毛孔被堵住。需要做的一是控油,二是防止毛囊的过度角化,三是防止细菌。



先说控油。控油其实跟很多东西有关。

首先,吃高糖或高盐的食物很容易引起我们体内的一种激素【IGF-1】。它会调解、加速皮脂的分泌。所以,高糖高盐的饮食会让油皮的朋友更容易出现长痘的问题。这里提一下吃辣的问题。关于吃辣长痘其实是没有科学依据的。一般很辣的火锅通常盐分含量很高,所以其实很有可能是高盐的影响。

除了饮食,还有作息、熬夜的问题。这两个状态会影响皮脂分泌。以及压力也会影响体内的激素分泌,导致皮脂腺加速分泌。

最后还有体内正常激素的一个情况,比如青春期或者其他生理周期的原因。相关的因素有比如雄激素,会加速皮脂的分泌。

 

那么可以做什么来帮助控油呢?

第一,饮食方面。可以补充一点B族的维生素,它本身是有控油效果。还可以补充一点锌盐。这个东西可以帮助防止毛囊的过度角化。由于参与丢弃废弃角质细胞的酶需要锌的激活,缺锌会导致酶无法工作,而造成毛囊角质的堆积。

 

第二,说到皮肤的外用。可以考虑烟酰胺或者维a醇的产品。使用烟酰胺其实需要比较长期的过程。维a醇可能相对快,一个礼拜左右就能看得见效果。然而它更刺激,皮肤会发干,然后起皮。这个就表明你的皮肤不耐受,只能停用。当然,烟酰胺其实也会有这样的问题。更重要的是烟酰胺里有一部分烟酸。有些人对烟酸不耐受,皮肤会就出现疹子。所以,建议大家用之前要先在手腕或耳后进行试验。试验后没出现问题才可以继续使用。

 

关于毛囊过度角化的问题。

其实有很多过度角化不是因为皮肤自己出了问题。而是我们使用的产品对皮肤造成了一些刺激。图中是容易致痘的一些成分,大家可以参考下。


我们在第一堂课的讲解中也提到了月桂酸、油酸影响的一些原理。当然也不能一棒子打死所有包含这些成分的产品,毕竟个人皮肤的反应情况、成分的具体含量都要作为考量。每个人还是需要去尝试,试出最适合自己的护肤产品。



最后讲到减少细菌的接触。

以上这张图看得出是一个手机的形状。这是一个英国的实验,其实就是把手机放在培养皿上接触,做细菌培养。最后可以长成非常大的菌斑。

有人问为什么总是一边脸长痘,那么就可以考虑是不是经常把手机贴在一边脸上接电话。以及考虑睡觉的时候是不是喜欢侧睡等。所以,特别是一些容易长痘的同学,需要多关注手机和枕巾的清洁,定期消毒杀菌。同样,额头长痘可以考虑是否是空气刘海的原因。此外,嘴周频繁长痘的问题可能需要去测一下胃里的幽门螺旋杆菌。

还有一些人的胸前背后(也是皮脂腺比较多的地方)容易长痘。这种情况,一个要注意衣服不要捂得太紧,使用护肤品不要过于厚重。除了注意这些,还可以考虑去看看医生,开一些药。如果是细菌性毛囊炎,可能会开一些抗菌的药物比如克林霉素。如果是真菌性毛囊炎则可能会开一些酮康唑之类的东西。这些一定要按医生的处方去买药。有时候我们也可以尝试用一些去屑的洗发水,因为有些会含有酮康唑。当然,这只是建议。

 

关于身上长痘用硫磺皂,这个点是蛮有争议的。

有些皮肤科医生建议使用,是因为硫磺本身有杀菌作用。也有很大一部分医生不建议,一方面是因为用皂是洗涤的过程,成分跟皮肤接触时间非常短,效果好不好很难说。另一方面,硫磺皂对皮肤的刺激性很大,会导致皮肤越洗越干。皮肤屏障功能被破坏了反而得不偿失。

 

这里我们就讲完了痤疮粉刺的预防。

(未完待续...)


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