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[Yamik Open Course | Live Content (7)] Reasonable Cleaning (Sensitive Skin)

【Yami Open Class|Live Content (7)】

Lesson 2: Reasonable Cleaning (Sensitive Skin)


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We have done these days What???

Before, we shared a lot of dry skin care products of [Yan An Tang] in the sun list

9From September 26th to September 29th, [Yan An Tang] was brought to the WeChat group of Yami Skin Care Open Class

1 hour a day The most scientific skin care basics

Full of dry goods

The editor of Yami will organize the content of the live broadcast and share it with those who are too late to listen to the live broadcast~


---The main topic is coming---



Next we talk about sensitivity.

Why is our skin so sensitive? What should I do if I become sensitive?


A few friends have congenital genetic problems, and the skin barrier is naturally thinner. But why are there more and more people with sensitive skin? Mostly they did too much damage to the stratum corneum barrier, to put it bluntly zuoCome out. I used too many products (too many effects) and finally put myself zuoBecome sensitive skin. Otherwise, the normal skin barrier function can actually resist external stimuli very well.

For various reasons, such as excessive cleaning, frequent makeup removal, exfoliation , brushing acid, etc., the entire skin barrier is destroyed, and external irritating substances can easily enter. This is why most people have sensitive skin.


The most common one after sensitivity is red blood. So how does red blood appear?

Innocent dermis is powerless, < /span>After the skin barrier is destroyed, irritating substances frequently enter and stimulate, and the body's immune system will respond and destroy it. The price of elimination is a series of inflammatory response. A common phenomenon of inflammatory response is the dilation of blood vessels.

It is frequently stimulated, and the capillaries are in a state of expansion for a long time (there are capillaries in the dermis). After the blood vessels are enlarged It loses its elasticity and cannot shrink, so it is easy to see through the skin. From the surface, the skin appears red.

The red blood that has been formed cannot be recovered with skin care products. In this case, you can only use medical aesthetics and multi-frequency The light destroys the blood vessels. The doctor will irradiate it with a specific wavelength of light, and the hemoglobin in the blood vessels will specifically absorb the light, get the energy and start to heat up. After that, the entire capillaries are burned.< /span>

 

So how to judge that the skin barrier has been damaged and become sensitive skin?< /span>

Here is a comparison chart, if two or three match, most It's the state of sensitive skin.


What if the barrier is damaged?


The first is to avoid ultraviolet rays. Since some sunscreen products are also irritating, it is better to use physical shielding. Such as holding an umbrella, using sun protection clothing and a sun hat.

The second is to avoid overheating the surface of the skin. Heat can also easily exacerbate inflammation caused by sensitive skin.

 

The third is the choice of surfactant.

If you have sensitive skin, avoid soap-based products and try to choose mild products. Even, you can consider washing your face directly with water. When choosing skin care products, fragrances, pigments and preservatives are contraindicated, and the fewer the ingredients, the better.

About preservatives, it is mentioned here that some products are solid and do not need preservatives in the absence of water. Others One-time use products do not need preservatives. Of course, the problem of preservatives does not need to be too entangled. For example, the popular Paraben free< span style="font-size: 12px;">, a paraben-type preservative, it is actually very mild and safe. Although there are some controversies about this type of product on the market, there is currently not much scientific evidence to prove its Damage.

There are also more than 100 ingredients in the product ingredient list, which look very good and have various functions. In fact, there are too many In particular, some contain plant extracts, which are not a pure substance and may contain various things that we do not know about. So try to avoid using them.

And then talk about functional powerful medicine, whitening, anti-aging, etc. If you have sensitive skin, it is recommended not to do these first, wait for the skin Keep it up and do it. Avoid contact with stimuli such as alcohol and make-up products as much as possible. For sensitive skinless is more < span style="font-size: 12px;">(Less is more). Skin care steps and skin care ingredients are simplified, the less likely it will cause irritation. The skin has the function of self-healing, giving it a quiet repairing environment , don't toss every day.

 

In order to give the skin a good repairing environment, the first moisturizing must be needs. At this time, you can use some products with simple ingredients, such as Dabaosod Honey (it only has a dozen ingredients). Also, such asCeravethePM span>Milk contains some barrier repair ingredients such as ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, which can accelerate the repair of the skin barrier.

In addition, pay attention to strict sun protection, use mild sunscreen products or Yes to choose physical cover. Finally, pay attention to cooling the skin and keep the facial skin ventilated.



Japanese love for soap base and foam is in a frenzy. Moreover, Japanese girls are also more common with makeup. Therefore, their There are a lot of medium-sensitive skin. In this way, there are many products in Japan that are specially designed for sensitive skin. This product is a Japanese muscle fasting water, which is to let the skin fast and starve. Don’t disturb the skin, let It just sits there quietly and repairs itself.

 

Some people have to make up for work or various needs . Let’s talk about the choice of makeup here.


First,       ;  Use powder as much as possible instead of liquid foundation.

Because the liquid foundation has water, it may have preservatives. Relatively speaking, the powder will have much less preservatives. Using powder also Be careful not to let it absorb moisture so that bacteria can grow. It will be more troublesome to use products contaminated with bacteria.

 

Second, you can choose some silicone oil-based products to reduce irritation.

The famous ones such asLA MER 's seven-day repair mask, as well as Farman's first aid mask. Most of these masks will calm down sensitive skin very well. In fact, they all have silicone oil water retention systems As mentioned before, silicone oil is a very independent existence, has a very good sealing effect, and will not cause you any trouble. Some hospitals will make some so-called dimethicone oil, which is actually the same. It has a package It has the functions of sealing, shielding and balancing without stimulation.

 

Finally, don't use waterproof makeup, because it washes away Too cumbersome and may lead to over-cleaning. For options like eyeliner and mascara, try to pick black, which is said to be less irritating. Products that are richer in color require more pigment to be adjusted out, which may increase irritation. There is also less use of liquid eyeliner, and the same is true. Regarding the preservation of the product, throw it away as soon as possible after a long time, after all, there is a problem of bacteria growth.


The damage to the skin barrier mentioned above is actually a type of sensitive skin. Another is skin inflammation, which causes the entire skin to become immune Systemic disorders. Dermatitis includes solar dermatitis, contact dermatitis, hormonal dermatitis, and common seborrheic dermatitis.

 

The skin is oily and peeling at the same time (the phenomenon of seborrheic dermatitis), which is the Malassezia bacteria that originally existed on the skin and the skin The problem of immune system reaction. Since this bacteria should exist on the skin, it is difficult to cure seborrheic dermatitis. In this case, oil control can only be used when there is no attack, and anti-inflammatory should be used to control it when it does. 0 span0

 

In another case, some people use dimension a Alcohol, niacinamide, or other products, and suddenly have acne on the face. Actually, this is not acne, but an acne-like rash. Acne has a complete It develops over time rather than overnight. This condition is actually an allergy-like phenomenon, where the skin is intolerant to a certain ingredient in the product. Just find the product that causes the allergy and stop using it.

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【亚米公开课|直播内容(七)】 合理清洁(敏感肌)

【亚米公开课|直播内容(七)】

第二课之 合理清洁(敏感肌)


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这几天我们做了什么???

之前我们在晒单中分享了【言安堂】大量的护肤干货

9月26日-9月29日【言安堂】在 亚米护肤公开课 微信群中带来

每日1小时 最科学的护肤基础知识

干货满满

亚米小编将陆续整理直播的内容分享给来不及听直播的各位~


---正题来了---



下一步我们来讲讲敏感。

我们的皮肤为什么那么敏感?敏感以后应该怎么处理?


有少数朋友是先天性的基因问题,皮肤屏障天生比较薄。但为什么敏感皮肤的人越来越多呢?大多是他们对角质层屏障做了太多的破坏,说白了就是zuo出来的。用了太多的产品(太多的功效),最后把自己zuo成了敏感皮。否则,正常的皮肤屏障功能,其实可以很好得抵御外界的刺激。

因为种种原因,比如过度清洁、频繁卸妆、去角质、刷酸等,整个皮肤屏障被破坏了,外界刺激性物质便很容易进入。这是大多数人皮肤敏感的原因。


敏感以后最常见的就是红血丝。那么红血丝是怎样出现的呢?

无辜的真皮层是没有抵抗能力的, 皮肤屏障被破坏后,刺激性物质频繁得进入和刺激,机体免疫系统就会有反应而进行消灭作用。消灭的代价就是出现一系列的炎症反应。炎症反应很常见的一个现象就是导致血管的扩张。

频繁得受到刺激,毛细血管就长期处在扩张的状态(真皮层有毛细血管)。血管被撑大了以后就失去弹性无法收缩,所以很容易透过皮肤就能被看得到。从表面看来,就是皮肤显现出红血丝。

已经形成的红血丝,用护肤品是无法恢复的。这种情况,你只能通过医美,用多频的光把血管摧毁。医生会用一个特定波长的光照射,而血管里的血红蛋白会特定得吸收这个光,得到能量开始发热。之后整个毛细血管就烧掉了。

 

那么怎么判断已经造成皮肤屏障受损,变成敏感皮呢?

这里有个对照图,如果有两三条符合,大多就是敏感皮的状态。


屏障受损以后怎么办?


第一是要避免紫外线。由于一些防晒产品也有一定刺激性,所以,比较好的方法是用物理的遮挡,比如撑伞、使用防晒衣和防晒帽。

第二就是要避免让皮肤表面过热。热也十分容易加重皮肤敏感导致的炎症。

 

第三是表面活性剂的选择。

如果已经是敏感皮就要避免使用皂基产品,尽量选择温和的产品。甚至,可以考虑直接用清水洗脸。在选择护肤品时,禁忌香精、色素和防腐剂,成分越少越好。

关于防腐剂这里提一下,有些产品是固体,在没有水的情况下是不需要防腐剂的。还有一些一次性使用的产品,也不需要防腐。当然防腐剂的问题也不用太过于纠结。比如现在流行的Paraben free,尼泊金类的防腐剂,它其实很温和很安全。虽然市面上对这类产品存在一些争议,但科学上目前没有太多证据证明它的伤害。

还有的产品成分表中有一百多个成分,看上去非常好,各种作用都有。其实太多的成分可能导致过敏几率成倍增加。特别有些包含的植物提取物,它不是一个纯物质,里面可能有各种各样我们不知道的东西。所以要尽量避免使用。

再讲到功能性的猛药,美白、抗老等,如果你是敏感皮建议先不要做这些,等皮肤养好了在做。包括酒精、彩妆产品这类刺激都要尽量少接触。对于敏感皮来说less is more (少就是多)。护肤步骤、护肤成分精简,引起刺激的可能性就越小。皮肤有自我修复的功能,给它一个安安静静的修复环境,不要天天去折腾。

 

为了给皮肤一个好的修复环境,首先保湿肯定是需要的。这时候可以用一些成分简单的产品,比如大宝sod蜜(它的成分只有十几个)。此外,比如CeravePM乳,里面还有些屏障修复成分比如神经酰胺、胆固醇、游离脂肪酸,可以加速皮肤屏障的修复。

另外,注意严格的防晒,使用温和的防晒产品或是选择物理遮盖。最后要注意皮肤的降温,保持面部皮肤的通风。



日本人对于皂基和泡沫的喜爱处于一个狂热的状态。而且,日本女生化妆也比较普遍。所以,她们之中敏感皮是非常多的。这样,日本就有很多产品是专门设计给敏感皮使用。这个产品,是日本的一款肌断食水,就是让肌肤断食,饿一饿。不去打扰皮肤,让它安静得呆在那里自我修复。

 

有些人因工作需要或各种方面需要,必须化妆。这里就讲下关于彩妆的选择。


第一,        尽量用粉而不是粉底液。

粉底液由于有水,那么就可能有防腐剂。相对来说,粉的防腐剂会少很多。使用粉也要注意保存,不要让它吸潮以至于长菌。使用被细菌污染的产品会更加麻烦。

 

第二,可以选择一些硅油性的产品,减少刺激。

名气比较大的比如LA MER的七天修复面膜,还有法尔曼的急救面膜。这些面膜大多人会觉得平复敏感皮肤的效果很好。其实,他们都有硅油保水的体系。之前提过,硅油是一个非常独立的存在,有很好的封闭作用,不会给你带来任何麻烦。有些医院会自制一些所谓的二甲基硅油,其实也是这样一个道理。它有着包封、屏蔽、平衡的作用,同时也没有刺激。

 

最后几点,不要用防水的彩妆,因为清洗起来过于麻烦,可能导致过度清洗。对于眼线和睫毛膏之类的选择,尽量挑选黑色,据说刺激性较小。颜色比较丰富的产品需要更多色素调出来,那么就可能增加刺激性。还有就是少用液体眼线,也是同样的道理。关于产品的保存,时间长了就尽快扔掉,毕竟有长菌的问题。


以上说到的皮肤屏障受损其实是造成敏感皮肤的一种。还有一种是皮肤炎症,导致整个皮肤免疫系统紊乱。皮炎包括日光性皮炎、接触性皮炎、激素性皮炎以及常见的脂溢性皮炎。

 

皮肤出油同时起皮(脂溢性皮炎的现象),这就是皮肤上本来存在的马拉色菌跟皮肤免疫系统反应出现的问题。由于这个菌是皮肤上本来应该存在的,所以脂溢性皮炎很难根治。这种情况,没有发作时只能通过控油,发作时就要用消炎来控制。

 

还有一种情况,有的人用维a醇、烟酰胺或其他产品,突然起了满脸痘。其实这不是痘痘,而是痤疮样的皮疹。痘痘有一个完整的发展过程而不是一夜之间就能长出来。这种状况其实是类似过敏现象,是皮肤对产品某种成分不耐受。只要找到导致过敏的产品把它停用就可以了。

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