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[Yami Open Class | Live Content (12)] Lesson 4: Recommendations for Planting Grass (Part 1)

【Yami Open Class|Live Content (12)】

Lesson 4 Recommendation for Planting (Part 1)


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We have done these days What???

Before, we shared a lot of dry skin care products of [Yan An Tang] in the sun list

9From September 26th to September 29th, [Yan An Tang] will be brought to the WeChat group of Yami Skin Care Open Class

1 hour a day The most scientific skin care basics< /b>

Full of dry goods

The editor of Yami will organize the content of the live broadcast and share it with those who are too late to listen to the live broadcast~



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---The main topic is coming---


We finished earlier< /span>95The content of skin care. Today, I mainly do some specific product analysis based on previous feedback. First, let’s take a look at some of the more popular big-name products on the market.




About the fairy water, it The main raw material is the filtrate of the fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. It was first developed by the brand Max FactorMission Buddha (finally << /span>P&GAcquired by Procter & Gamble). You may have heard the story of the research and development of fairy water. They found that the hands of the female workers in the sake brewing workshop were particularly delicate, so they researched the efficacy of the fermentation products of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The often mentioned Pitera is one of the patented ingredients.

 

Someone may wonder, wine What exactly is the filtrate of yeast fermentation products?

In fact, the most It is a product of water and yeast metabolism. Many products on the market claim to contain live yeast, which is actually impossible. Because there are clear regulations on the microorganisms of cosmetics, in order to prevent the contamination of bacteria and fungi, it is impossible for any so-called beneficial bacteria and yeast to be directly added to cosmetics. So these products are not credible.

 

Then the filtrate will have What is it?

Yeast is a cell, Like a body cell it is a small factory. It has its own so-called power generation workshop and production workshop. Mitochondria in cells act as power plants, providing electricity to the entire cell. It burns the sugar absorbed by the human body into various energy needed by cells, and manufactures many substances we need. Of course, this process may produce some pollution, such as oxygen free radicals. These substances can damage our cells and cause the body to slowly age.

For yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae filtrate The ingredients inside, we also asked some raw material suppliers in this regard. Generally, some water-soluble polysaccharides, amino acids and polypeptides are produced. The protein molecules of polypeptides are very large, and it is difficult for them to penetrate our skin barrier to provide nutrients to the deep layers, but if you chop up the protein, it is one amino acid. Three amino acids together are a tripeptide, and four are a tetrapeptide. Now very popular holy peptides and oligopeptides, mainly play the role of signal regulation. They tell your cells what to make more of.

 

For the reaction to the fairy water, some people with dry skin will feel the skin after using it Dry and peeling. The effect of fairy water is mainly in the epidermis of the skin. There are some milder acids in its metabolites, which can promote skin metabolism to produce new keratinocytes and achieve the effect of brightening the skin. However, it may also lead to immaturity of the skin barrier, resulting in dry skin. Suitable for both oily and normal skin. The use of fairy water for dry skin should be based on individual circumstances. If there is peeling, do not use it.


In addition to fairy water, the most The most famous is the small brown bottle of Estee Lauder. It is said that its sales profit once accounted for 50% of the entire Estee Lauder annual sales profit.

Use in a small brown bottle The product is the famous Swiss CLR(Clinique La Rive) research by the Anti-aging Center, called Difission yeast fermentation product lysate. In fact it is a fermentation product of Bifidobacterium longum (probiotic) and has nothing to do with yeast. The filtrate of the fairy water is mainly the metabolite of yeast (the yeast is filtered), and the lysate is the melting and breaking of the bacteria and adding it to the product.

So in the small brown bottle There are nucleic acids, cell walls and Bvitamins of bifidobacteria cells. There are some special polysaccharides on the cell wall, such as Beta-dextran, Mannan, etc. Tests have shown that Beta-Glucan can reduce the release of inflammatory factors, and some Relieve cellular inflammation. Therefore, the big role of the small brown bottle is to maintain the stability of the cell environment, because it can soothe your inflammatory cells.

 

When the skin is under some When stimulated by the outside world, the immune system will respond to eliminate the foreign invaders. This process brings some side effects, such as dilation of blood vessels, and the water in the blood vessels becomes easy to seep out, causing edema and redness. These responses are all mediated by inflammatory factors. Then, the polysaccharides in the cell wall of the product ingredients can inhibit the release of inflammatory factors, thus reducing redness and other reactions.

In addition, the small brown bottle Also added other things like some anti-allergic and caffeine ingredients. All in all, it is a rather complex product. Its main action direction is not particularly clear. We mainly think that its biggest role is to maintain the stability of the entire skin environment.

 

The effect of keratin exfoliation in the small brown bottle is not as strong as that of fairy water. Suitable for all types of skin. However, due to the complexity of the ingredients, some people may be allergic to certain ingredients, so everyone has to try it before deciding whether to use it.


Lancome's little black bottle It is a product from L'Oreal that competes with the small brown bottle.

It is the same as the small brown bottle The same is the use of two yeast fermentation product lysate. The difference is that Lancome has launched the concept of base liquid (Estee Lauder is the essence), which is to prime your skin so that subsequent products can be better absorbed.

Lancome's little black bottle Added a lot of alcohol. Alcohol interferes with our skin barrier function and makes the skin barrier more permeable. The function of the so-called base fluid is to open the skin channel, allowing the subsequent substances to enter better.

In addition to alcohol, Lancome also added other acids to promote exfoliation Metabolism and increase the permeability of the skin. The addition of alcohol and acid will damage the skin barrier, so the small black bottle is more suitable for friends with oily skin and better skin barrier function.


The Red Kidney of Senior Hall It is a very famous product. From the feedback of many consumers, this product is suitable for first aid of the skin.

Actually, the red waist is A base fluid, so it also has a high content of alcohol. For unstable skin, alcohol can feel worse. But this product has added carboxymethylBeta-dextran, Has a soothing effect on the skin (medically, Beta-glucan is as an adjunct to standard therapy in patients with rhinitis). Such conflicting product designs are somewhat strange. The effect of use also varies from person to person. Some people have stabilized skin conditions after using them, while others have worse skin conditions.

 

For skin repair LA MER's seven-day repair mask and Farman's first aid mask are recommended The product. On the one hand, they have the encapsulation effect of silicone oil, which creates a good closed environment for the skin. On the other hand, they use various bacterial extracts, such as Beta- The effect of glucan, soothes the skin. Overall, these two masks are very effective for allergic, rotten faces.



Since it's mentioned

span> LA MER , here is the most classic sea blue mystery. The reviews for this cream are extreme, with older people loving it and younger people resisting it (because it's too oily to wear on the face).

The Mystery of Ocean Blue is famous The ingredient is seaweed extract. Seaweed extract fermentation broth may be similar to yeast fermentation filtrate. But the point of this product is not soothing the skin, but the use of a water-in-oil system. There are many other oils in the product, many more than silicone oils.

Water and oil are not miscible. Oil-in-water is the most common system in cosmetics because water feels much better on the skin than oil. Water-in-oil is used less, but it has the benefit of being more hydrating. As people age, the stratum corneum metabolism time is getting longer and longer, and the old dry skin is particularly receptive to oil.

 

Similar water-in-oil Its products also include Nivea's Big Blue Can, also hailed as an affordable alternative to Sea Blue Mystery. 2013yearly50A British journalist around the age of 2 found a skin research laboratory to do a test. He painted the sea blue mystery on his face and the big blue can on the other side to evaluate the improvement of the two faces, and found that the effect was almost the same.

We also work with Estee Lauder's The Global Director has discussed this. He said that the special point of LA MER is to use 1% of citric acid (a type of fruit acid). Since citric acid is dissolved in water, and the product uses a water-in-oil system, this is equivalent to wrapping citric acid in oil. When the product is used, the citric acid does not come into direct contact with the skin in a large amount, and has a slow-release effect. With the addition of acid, this product can make your skin brighter than the big blue can. In addition, there are tests to say that the mystery of sea blue has the effect of promoting the production of hyaluronic acid.

So, for particularly dry skin and older people, Sea Blue Mystery is still quite effective.



Tell me about Oer again The concept of waterfront health water so-called milk before water.

Normal use It is water first and then milk, mainly the combination of water's relieving effect on the skin and the oil-sealing effect of the emulsion. This design of Aurbin is mainly aimed at oily skin, because it has a good oil control effect. We have also done experiments. If you use water first and then oil, the oil control effect of this healthy water will be lost. Its ingredients contain a lot of alcohol to open up the skin barrier. At the same time, it also contains aescin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate and other ingredients that can soothe the skin very well. So this product has the effect of astringent oil control.

Albine designed Permeating milk (used before water), which is alcohol-free and has a high oil content. A bedding with penetrating milk can alleviate the effects of subsequent alcohol. On the other hand, penetrating milk can also change the surface tension of the skin and help the skin absorb it more evenly.

Oil before water is A special design of Ao Erbin. This product is relatively well tolerated by skin other than oily skin. However, its main effect is to control oil, and friends with dry skin do not need to try it.

 

As mentioned earlier, everyone asked There are more and bigger brands on the market, and some opinions can be discussed together, not a sure-fire concept.

(To be continued...)


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【亚米公开课|直播内容(十二)】 第四课之 种草推荐(上)

【亚米公开课|直播内容(十二)】

第四课之 种草推荐(上)


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这几天我们做了什么???

之前我们在晒单中分享了【言安堂】大量的护肤干货

9月26日-9月29日【言安堂】在 亚米护肤公开课 微信群中带来

每日1小时 最科学的护肤基础知识

干货满满

亚米小编将陆续整理直播的内容分享给来不及听直播的各位~



---正题来了---


之前我们讲完了95分护肤的内容。今天主要根据之前的反馈做一些具体的产品分析。首先来看一些市面上比较热门的大牌产品。




关于神仙水,它主要的原料就是清酒酿酒酵母发酵产物的滤液。它最早是由Max Factor蜜丝佛陀这个品牌研发出来的(最后被P&G宝洁公司收购)。大家也许听过神仙水研发的故事,是他们发现清酒酿酒车间里女工的手特别细嫩,所以研究出了酿酒酵母发酵产物的功效。常说到的Pitera就是其中的专利成分。

 

有人会疑惑,酿酒酵母发酵产物的滤液到底是什么呢?

其实,里面最多的是水还有酵母代谢的一些产物。市面上很多产品宣称含有活酵母,这其实是不可能的。因为对于化妆品的微生物这方面有明确的法规,为了防止细菌和真菌的污染,任何所谓的有益菌、酵母都不可能直接添加在化妆品里。所以这些产品是不可信的。

 

那么滤液里会有什么东西呢?

酵母就是一个细胞,像身体细胞一样是个小工厂。它有自己所谓的发电车间、生产车间。细胞里的线粒体就相当于发电车间,可以给整个细胞提供电力。它把人体吸收来的糖份燃烧变成细胞所需要的各种能量,制造很多我们需要的物质。当然这个过程可能会产生一些污染,比如氧自由基。这些物质会伤害我们的细胞,让人体慢慢变得衰老。

对于酵母酿酒酵母滤液里面的成分,我们也问了一些这方面的原料供应商。一般产生的是一些水溶性的多糖、氨基酸还有多肽。多肽的蛋白质分子很大,是很难透过我们的皮肤屏障到深层提供营养的,但如果你把蛋白质切碎,就是一个个氨基酸。三个氨基酸在一起就是三肽,四个为四肽。现在很流行的圣肽和寡肽,主要是起到信号调节的作用。它们会告诉你的细胞应该多生产什么物质。

 

对于神仙水的反应,有一些干皮的人用了以后皮肤会发干、起皮。神仙水的作用主要在皮肤的表皮层。它的代谢产物里有一些比较温和的酸,可以促进皮肤代谢产生新的角质细胞,达到提亮皮肤的效果。然而也可能导致皮肤屏障的不成熟,造成皮肤发干。对于油性、中性皮肤来说,都是适合使用的。干性皮肤使用神仙水还是要根据个人情况,如果出现起皮就不要使用了。


除了神仙水,最有名的就是雅诗兰黛的小棕瓶。号称其销售利润曾一度占据整个雅诗兰黛年销售利润的百分之五十。

小棕瓶里用的产物是瑞士有名的CLRClinique La Rive)抗老中心的研究,叫二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞物。事实上它是长双歧杆菌(益生菌)的发酵产物,跟酵母没有任何关系。神仙水的滤液是主要是酵母的代谢产物(过滤了酵母),而溶胞物是把菌融化打碎加入产品中。

所以小棕瓶里有双歧杆菌细胞的核酸、细胞壁以及B族维生素等。细胞壁上有一些特别的多糖成分,比如Beta-葡聚糖,甘露聚糖等。有测试表明Beta-葡聚糖能减少炎症因子的释放,有缓解细胞炎症的作用。所以,小棕瓶很大的作用是维持细胞环境的稳定,因为它可以安抚你的炎症细胞。

 

当皮肤在受到一些外界刺激的时候,免疫系统会做出应答消灭外来的入侵物。这个过程就带来一些副作用,比如血管扩张,血管中的水变得容易渗出而造成水肿导致发红。这些反应都是通过炎症因子来调节的。那么,产品成分中细胞壁的多糖可以抑制炎症因子的释放,这样就减少了红肿等反应。

此外,小棕瓶还加了其他东西,比如一些抗敏和咖啡因的成分。总得来说说是一个比较复杂的产品。它的主要作用方向不是特别的明确。我们主要还是认为它最大的作用就是维持整个皮肤大环境的稳定。

 

小棕瓶角质剥脱的效果没有神仙水强,相对来说,它对于各种类型的皮肤都是适用的。但由于成分比较复杂,有些人可能会对某些成分过敏,所以大家要尝试后再决定是否使用。


兰蔻的小黑瓶是欧莱雅出的与小棕瓶竞争的一款产品。

它跟小棕瓶一样是用了二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞物。不一样的地方在于,兰蔻推出了基底液的概念(雅诗兰黛为精华),是给你的皮肤打底让后续的产品能更好得被吸收。

兰蔻的小黑瓶加入了很多酒精。酒精会干扰我们的皮肤屏障功能,让皮肤屏障的通透性变强。所谓基底液的作用就是打开皮肤通道,让后续的物质更好得进入。

除了酒精之外兰蔻还额外加了其他的酸,也是为了促进角质剥脱代谢,增加皮肤的通透性。酒精和酸的加入对皮肤屏障的损害较大,所以小黑瓶更适合油皮、皮肤屏障功能较好的朋友使用。


资深堂的红腰子是名气很大的产品。从很多消费者的反馈来看,这款产品适合皮肤的急救。

其实,红腰子是一款基底液,所以也有高含量的酒精。对于处在不稳定状态的皮肤,酒精有雪上加霜的感觉。但这款产品里加入了羧甲基Beta-葡聚糖,有安抚皮肤的作用(在医学上,Beta-葡聚糖是作为一个鼻炎患者标准治疗的辅助剂)。这样冲突的产品设计是有些奇怪的。使用的效果也因人而异,有的人使用后皮肤情况得到了稳定,而有的人用了皮肤状况更糟。

 

对于皮肤修复来说LA MER的七天修复面膜和法尔曼的急救面膜是比较推荐的产品。它们一方面有硅油的包封作用,给皮肤营造了很好的封闭环境。另一方面,它们用了各种菌的提取物,有Beta-葡聚糖的作用效果,安抚皮肤。总的来说,这两款面膜对过敏、烂脸非常有效。



既然提到了LA MER,就提下最经典的海蓝之谜。对于这款霜的评价很极端,上年纪的人对这款产品非常喜爱,而年轻人则比较抗拒(因为太油不好上脸)。

海蓝之谜比较出名的成分是海藻提取物。海藻提取物发酵液可能类似于酵母发酵滤液。但这款产品突出的点不在于舒缓皮肤,而在于使用了油包水的体系。产品中有很多其他的油脂,比硅油油得多。

水和油是不能互溶的。水包油是化妆品中最常见的体系,因为水的肤感比油好得多。油包水的使用较少,但它好处在于保湿效果更强。随着人年龄的增长,角质层代谢时间越来越长,上年纪的干皮对油的接受程度也特别高。

 

类似的油包水的产品还有妮维雅的大蓝罐,也被誉为海蓝之谜的平价替代品。2013年有个50岁左右的英国记者专门找了一个皮肤研究实验室做了个测试。他给自己的脸一边涂海蓝之谜,一边涂大蓝罐,来评估两边脸的改善程度,然后发现效果相差无几。

我们也跟雅诗兰黛的全球总监探讨过这个事。他说LA MER的特别点在于用了1%的柠檬酸(果酸的一种)。由于柠檬酸是溶解在水里的,再加上产品用了油包水的体系,这就相当于把柠檬酸包裹在油里。产品使用时柠檬酸没有那么直接大量得跟皮肤接触,有缓释的效果。有酸的加入,这款产品相对大蓝罐来说,能让你的皮肤变得更加亮。此外,还有测试说海蓝之谜有促进透明质酸产生的功效。

所以,对于特别干的干皮以及年纪大的人来说可能,海蓝之谜还是相当有效果的。



再讲一下澳尔滨健康水所谓的先乳后水的概念。

一般正常的使用都是先水后乳,主要是水对皮肤的缓解作用再加上乳液油脂封闭效果的配合。澳尔滨的这个设计主要针对油皮,因为它有很好的控油的效果。我们也做过实验,如果按先水后油使用,这款健康水的控油效果就没有了。它的成分里含有大量酒精来打开皮肤屏障。同时,也含有七叶树皂苷、甘草酸二钾等成分能很好得舒缓皮肤。所以这款产品有收敛控油的效果。

澳尔滨设计了渗透乳(在水之前使用),其中不含酒精,而且有很高的油分。有渗透乳的铺垫可以缓解后续酒精的作用。另一方面,渗透乳还能改变皮肤的表面张力,帮助皮肤吸收得更均匀。

先油后水是澳尔滨比较特殊的一个设计。这款产品相对来说油皮之外的皮肤也可以耐受的。不过,它主要的效果还是在于控油,干皮的朋友没有必要尝试。

 

前面讲了大家问得比较多、市面上较大牌的产品,一些看法大家可以共同探讨,并不是板上钉钉的观念。

(未完待续...)


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