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【Alice the Raccoon Shop】Gwen Los Angeles Meat Restaurant New Heights

Gwen Butcher Shop: 6600 Sunset Blvd , Los Angeles, CA 90028

Butcher Shop Hours:

Mon 10am - 7pm

Tues - Sat 10am - 10pm,

Sun 10am - 4pm, 

Restaurant Opening Hours: Tuesday - Saturday

Coffee & Sweet Treats: 7am - 4pm

Lunch: 11.00am - 2.30pm

Dinner: 5.00pm - Midnight


Yes, in this face-seeking society, a handsome and beautiful face is the stepping stone to your success, but only your real strength can win you respect. Today I want to talk about people who were shortlisted in People magazine. , Chef Curtis Stone's second restaurant in Los Angeles, Gwen, who is recognized as one of the top 50 sexiest men in the world, once again proves that strength is more important than face.

Curtis Stone opened his first restaurant, Maude, in Beverly Hills in 2015, and it quickly became a sensation across the city, becoming a beacon of a new generation.

Having decided to keep up the good work, he brought in his brother and successfully opened his second restaurant, Gwen, in July 2016. And this time, like Maude, the same grandmother's (another) name was used.

If Maude is a vegetarian-oriented, monthly bespoke restaurant focusing on seasonal vegetables, then Gwen is a "Men's Cave" for carnivores. I don't want to limit my chef, this time I have perfected myself again. Maude is a test for vegetables, then Gwen is a revenge for meat, just like white roses VS red roses in life, each has its own style and characteristics.  

It is different from the policy of rushing to make reservations by phone on the first working day of the beginning of the month and Maude, who has to grab the head, has to make a new order to enter this restaurant to enjoy the chef's special Tasting Menu The system Tock completes the ticket grabbing activity.

Ticketing units start with 2 people, and only the secret Tasting Menu is available. 5 dishes are currently priced at $190 / 2 Person, excluding taxes, tips and drinks, group reservations (6 people) need to call for inquiries.

In fact, you can see the clue from the name, this is not just a restaurant, Gwen Butcher Shop & Restaurant is a top butcher shop with a European style. In other words, on the premise that the people of Los Angeles have nowhere to eat top-quality barbecue, it also solves the problem that we can't find a place to buy top-quality meat materials.

So, as you might expect, the whole shop will be divided into 2 sections, one is the European-style Butcher Shop which is open 7 days a week, and the other is the Butcher Shop. >Meat-oriented restaurant.


Butcher Shop

The first thing you see when you walk into the restaurant is a European-style butcher shop with a small and fresh style. Although there may be a whole animal hanging in front of you, it will not make you feel alarmed, let alone strange. The smell of savory meat and the faint aroma of charcoal grilled to the tip of the nose.

Looking at the neatly arranged fresh meat in the clear glass, even those who don't like to cook will have the urge to try the charm of Homemade. And dry-salting workshops are waiting for the passage of time to achieve protein conversion. Let you suddenly discover that visiting the butcher shop can also become a kind of enjoyment.


Environment

This building was built in the 1920s and has a history of nearly 100 years. Brooklyn-based interior design firm The hOmE Studio (Evan and Oliver Haslegrave) used the original style of the building to perfectly reproduce the Golden Age< /b> Everything is beautiful, but with a little steampunk psychedelic color.

The restaurant occupies a total area of 7,000 feet and has 83 seats, which are reasonably divided into 4 parts, Chef’s counter, dining room, patio and bar area.

Aqua blue velvet benches, hanging crystal chandeliers, Chinchilla barstools chairs are all expressions of Art Deco and Goth.

The contrast between glossy finish and rough cement, black and white brings out the surrealism, trance means being in a Matrix or Inception-like set.

Of course the most attractive are the indoor fire pit (fire pit) under the roaring flames behind the glass cover and the Argentine-style asador barbecue grill (Argentine-style asador). ), watching the grill pan under the heat and the meat slowly oozing grease, you'll have more anticipation for the day's main course.

The raccoon chose the most difficult to buy Chef’s Counter in order to see more clearly. Richard, the smiling chef on duty, told us that he would be in charge of our dinner.

The pink lights on the marble countertops and the wine list specially waxed made our faces even more adorable.

Take a closer look, why even the King of Food Truck in Los Angeles, Roy Choi, also brought his family to taste it, whether it was an inspection or stealing a teacher (Keke) I didn't expect to sit next to me. It's also Chef, it seems that everyone came prepared.


Wine

Not only are the ingredients sourced from the farmers' market, but even the cocktails here pay attention to the seasonal element, which changes every season. Beautiful bartenders follow the principle of not wasting, but beautiful, every glass is beautiful to your heart's content.

The alcohol content that is not too heavy will make you only slightly drunk at most, and the right syrup will not make you feel that the sweetness suppresses the aroma of the wine. The most difficult thing is to be attentive. A suitable cup to hold it adds a touch of elegance.

I even put my own ice logo on my ice to impress us with details.

Red wine and steak are a match made in heaven, so the wine cellar here is also called a rich colorful. From the suburban Santa Barbara to the faraway Europe, there will be a selection of fine wines waiting for you.

Serve

First Bites 

The chef led the butcher shop to pick out all kinds of cured meat and bacon snacks for appetizers, and also showed off his the strength of the butcher shop and dry curing workshop.

Duck Speck Salted Duck Ham

Duck ham made from duck breast, salted only and dried for 2 weeks before being cold-smoked with apple wood. And just like the name, the "Speck" (fat) oily aroma of this piece of duck meat is quite mellow, with a hint of sourness. The oily fragrance has a long aftertaste. Rest assured, there is absolutely no duck smell that will make you unhappy.

Spanish Chorizo 

Spanish chorizo is a fermented and dried pork sausage. The source of the spicy element is to roast the seasonal peppers first, and then add the smoked red paprika pimenton dulce, which is native to Spain, to create a smoky sausage with a rich taste and a slightly spicy taste.

Pork and liver Terrine

The two seemingly insignificant ingredients are actually quite a match. The oily aroma of pork can just balance the earthy taste of the liver. It is a pleasure to pair with wine.

Flax Seed Biscotti

Italian crackers made with various nuts, including flaxseed, are definitely a mouth-watering snack. Aside from coffee, the best partner for this shortbread is wine, most traditionally with the classic Italian dessert wine, Vin Santo, which I use with my cocktails.

Focaccia

This focaccia bread with beautiful pores, very Q-bounce but crispy skin easily conquered the taste buds at the first bite. It has a yeast-like aroma and can feel the air that jumps on the tip of the tongue, and the fragrance Fragrant olive oil taste.

I thought it was a good taste provided by a well-known European bag supplier in Los Angeles, but when I asked, it turned out to be their own bakery, and they really convinced them. But after thinking about it, it's also right. It's a waste of money to build a combustion chamber, so it's too wasteful to not use it to bake a toast and practice your hands.

The most suitable meat sauce to spread on bread, it is not fishy, not greasy, not salty, like thick foam. When you spread it on the bread, you seem to be able to feel the dynamics of it being absorbed little by little by the thick pores.

Chewy Beets 

After eating the appetizers from the butcher shop, we welcome the refreshing salad plate to wash the taste buds.

Beetroot snacks, which are not always loved by everyone, are also welcomed by us, especially the addition of dried European cherry fruit is the finishing touch, showing a rich aroma, which belongs to the sweet and sour red meat fruit. The refreshing aroma of blackberry blends together. The mild acidity also balances out the sweetness of the beets. Even if you're afraid of the earthy smell of beetroot, you can't fault it.

Marinated Peppers

The pickled red pepper is not spicy at all, and the aroma of olive oil makes people feel happy

Grilled Saradines

Finally came the first climax of the day, Japanese sardines smoked with white almond wood.

Japanese sardines are actually very difficult to prepare. In addition to the small thorns, they can easily give off a fishy smell, which is why the sardines we usually see are canned. However, Japanese sardines have always been famous, despite their small size, but the fish is quite rich.

The fruit wood slowly smoking in front of us is smoking and flavoring the sardines just after massaging the cortex. I am very fortunate that I can sit at the Chef Table to observe every move here, everyone is moving in their own post, the kind of steady, unhurried, orderly working state, like a group of leaders The lens is just as comfortable.

After a long wait, the mini fish steaks are finally smoked, brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with a few grains of salt

Then everything is two, and it's a plate for you to enjoy.  

When I took my first bite, I was moved. The small spines in the original sardines have been integrated into the fish meat, and the crispy fish skin is not shown here. The most important thing is that the oily aroma that appears after the subcutaneous fat of the fish is roasted slowly lingers in the mouth and lingers.

Burnt Cucumber Pickles

Summer Squash Hearts Of Palm, Blossoms, Buttermilk

Sliced cucumber kimchi rolls are as refreshing as the Hearts Of Palm salad. White foam made with buttermilk, served with slightly green cucumber puree, drizzled with oil and vinegar, and sprinkled with cumin with a penetrating aroma. It seems to be a mixture of various flavors, but there is no conflict at all. .

The best thing is the iced grapes. Why are the grapes full of bubbles after eating, and even a little jumping candy?

It was only after inquiries that I found out that each grape was filled with champagne bubbles. Isn't it a great idea?

Orecchiette

Pancetta Pickled Fresno Chili, Tomatoes, Pecorino

Handmade mini cat ear pasta served with super fragrant Italian herb bacon and crumbs to make the sauce The ingredients are more evenly coated, and there are people who specially help you to stir it warmly, and then put it on the plate and scrape the refreshing sheep cheese.

When it comes to the sauce, the focus here is Smoked Pork Belly Pancetta. This pork belly, which is marinated like bacon, is also added with spices and herbs, so when marinating It was already fragrant. After adding spices and other herbs, hang it like this for a month or two, so that the aroma of rosemary, thyme, garlic, and nutmeg slowly penetrates into the meat during the pickling and air-drying process, forming a unique aroma.

The pickled jalapeno chili and tomato add hot and sour elements, which resonate with the savory aroma of Italian bacon. The sweetness of tomato, the crispness of bread crumbs, and the salty oily aroma of bacon are enhanced by the spiciness. The Orecchiette pasta, which is still sunken in the middle of the small round circle, absorbs the sauce fiercely, making every bite quite rich and flavorful.  

When serving, lightly scrape a few shreds of Pecorino Romano to taste, this cheese has a taste between goat cheese and cow's cheese, so it won't have too much fishy smell , and eat it with wine, it will have a sweet taste. It belongs to the role of "magic oil", and it is delicious whether it is served with noodles or bread.  

Every hour, you'll see the chef walk into the roaring fire with spray to inspect the meat, while the grill chef is sweating profusely by the scalding oven.

Be aware that large pieces of meat must be smoked for at least 10 hours to absorb the aroma of white almond wood.  

Main Course

About Tools

If a worker wants to do a good job, he must first sharpen his tool. The little raccoon usually only encounters good steak knives in fine Michelin restaurants, but this time in Gwen, he encountered the mysterious gentleman knife from Thier, the French knife capital Perceval, and it is also a classic 9.47 steak knife, I really want to give the chef and manager a big compliment, I thought Maude restaurant before, you have already You are demanding yourself with Michelin's specifications, and as expected, this tradition continues here as always. Open the box, there are more than a dozen Percevals lying quietly inside for diners to choose from. It is like a luxurious ceremony and music opening, which is shocking. You must know that half a dozen of these items are $700-$880. !

Perceval is a brand founded by the French Michelin restaurant chef Yves Charles. He has been in this industry for many years. The design concept comes from practice, practical and at the same time takes into account Grace.

Whether the steak tastes good or not is naturally related to the ingredients and the heat, but there is a very important factor that we ignore is a good knife that cuts meat like mud, sharp enough and fast enough Quick, you'll have the most delicious beef you can eat, and the Perceval is made of steel, super sharp without serrations, to reduce the risk of spoiling the meat. Think about it, if a dull knife cuts meat, when will the knife be cut? ! It will not only destroy the fiber of the beef, but also cut the tendons continuously. After a long time, the beef will be cold and the aroma will disappear.

About ingredients

For those who like to eat lamb, this $190 set meal for 2 guests is still a good deal, because the main dish will be a Argentine roast lamb for 4, but because the little raccoon loves it more Eating beef, so we added an extra $75 (for 2 people) to change the main course to a 30-day dry-aged bone-in ribeye.

Of course, if you are a meat connoisseur, you can join a group with friends to try Australia's top and world's most expensive Blackmore rib-eye, (plus $390 for 4, 42oz) Let it be a gluttonous enjoyment that allows you to flying dragons in the sky. You must know that the exclusive rights of Blackmore Steak in USA are all in the hands of the Stone brothers.

Selected steaks from Creekstone Farms farms are of course the guarantee of quality. In addition to the cows being carefully cared for before they died, they have always grown up eating corn, so as to form that beautiful and evenly distributed steak. Oil flowers, of course, are more meaty.

America's best bite is beef, of which dry-aged is the most popular, beef is slowly passed through under a certain temperature and moderation The process of protein fermentation, slowly ripening. To put it simply, it is similar to our Chinese Jinhua ham and air-dried chicken. This dry-aged beef will be firmer and more elastic, and the flavor will be more intense with time. Even The sweetness in the meat will also increase.

Because of the long-term fermentation, the surface of the meat will be dry and hard. Of course, the longer the time is, the more dry and hard parts will be, and here is what we call the loss part, when cooking When it's time to play, it's usually all repaired, and then thrown directly into the trash. Compared with filet mignon, the loss rate of rib-eye steak is quite low. After all, the fat content is relatively large, which is why the dry-aging of filet mignon is so expensive. The naked eye is relatively cheap

As for the heat of the steak, the rawness of the beef, it all depends on the skill of the chef. Seasoning with only salt and pepper is enough to be amazing when it is served. Of course, cutting meat is also a degree. When cutting, I chose half fat and half lean. This kind of steak has the aroma of fat, and is tough and juicy. Bone and tendons, fat but not greasy, meat but not firewood, a variety of beef to enjoy. The meat is soft and juicy, with a rich taste, and the meat is very elastic. When you eat it in one bite, your mouth is full of oily aroma and unique meat sweetness. The full gravy is all in the meat, and every bite is full of satisfaction.

This bone-in ribeye steak for 2 is already delicious enough to make my liver tremble, and it completely brought me back the heroic enjoyment of eating meat at Chi Spacca.

Sure enough, it is a top-quality knife made by the hands of craftsmen who have been tempered and tempered. It is very sharp, and when it is cut with one knife, the steak is perfectly separated, which is a wonderful word.

The side dishes are sweet corn kernels, creamy eggplant and crunchy green beans.

Dessert

Melon

After eating such a heavy beef, a small honeydew Sorbet was just enough to wash off the multiple stimuli on the taste buds.

Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta, Almond, Cherry, Peach

Apricot peach delicious ice cream sprinkled with toasted crunchy and fragrant almonds, brandy-pickled cherries with a light wine aroma. Even those who don't like cheese won't hate the strips of Panna Cotta here, sweet but not greasy, soft but not mushy.

A big thank you to the Gwen team for such a wonderful meal. By the way, here will automatically charge 18% Tips 

About Butcher Shop

European style, clean and clear, it not only sells a selection of fresh pork, beef and mutton, but also has a dry salting workshop (but it still takes time to wait). You can even clearly see the hanging rows of bacon, salted duck and various sausages through the glass, which reminds me of the scenes of every family drying bacon during the Chinese New Year as a child.  

There are also a wide variety of sausages here, such as North African sausages, Italian sweet sausages, and thyme flavors, which have become popular in recent years.

Here you can buy a lot of seasonal meats, such as Scotch grouse, venison, wild boar, a variety of traditional grass-fed poultry and Dijon chicken;

There are even many kinds of pork that are rare elsewhere. You must know that the pork in the United States is really delicious, and here you will sell the Red-wattle hog, the black cat and mulefoot pig, and the English flower. Pigs such as Gloucestershire Old Spot and Tamworth hogs, etc.;

When it comes to beef, it's even more jaw-dropping. If you want to eat the most expensive meat in Australia's history, Mole Wagyu, come here, because Gwen has the exclusive agency rights of the USA; of course, the first place in Southern California. Agency for Five Dot Ranch beef, a famous farm in Napa.

And the raccoon's favorite foie gras! ! ! I actually bought it to eat at home, but I can only say that there is no fishy smell at all, and the delicious food makes me drunk. I even enjoy it as a meat-flavored ice cream.

Finally, let's sort out the restaurant's features

1. In 2015, Maude (the name of Grandma) opened in Los Angeles, and it is also Curtis Stone's first restaurant in the local area. It is famous for making creative dishes with the theme of seasonal ingredients every month. Maude is currently headed by former sous chef Justin Hilbert

2. Gwen is also a name, (Curtis Stone another Grandma), Gwen is a professional animal husbandry farmer in Melbourne, Australia, in fact, after the success of the first restaurant Maude, Gwen was put on the agenda , the original plan was to cooperate with the former chef Chad Colby, who had just retired from Chi Spacca, a restaurant in the meat industry in Los Angeles, but later due to differences in ideas, the cooperation broke down, but Curtis Stone quickly pulled his pro Relive childhood memories with brothers Luke, who both worked in a butcher shop before leaving Australia.

3. Unlike Maude, who has to rush to head 2 months in advance, the policy of rushing to book by phone on the first working day of the beginning of the month is different. If you want to enter this restaurant to enjoy the chef's special Tasting Menu, you must go through a new The ordering system of Tock completes the ticket grabbing activity. This system is related to the top Chicago restaurant Alinea, Next, because it is the owner behind them, Nick Kokonas, who introduced the ordering system.

4. The ticket unit starts with 2 people, and only the secret Tasting Menu is available, $190 /2 Person, excluding taxes, tips and drinks, currently group reservations (6 people required telephone inquiries).

5. In fact, you can see the clue from the name, this is not just a restaurant, Gwen Butcher Shop & Restaurant is a top butcher shop with a European style. In other words, on the premise that the people of Los Angeles have nowhere to eat top-quality barbecue, it also solves the problem that we can't find a place to buy top-quality meat materials.

So, as you might expect, the entire store will be divided into 2 sections. One is a European-style Butcher Shop, open 7 days a week, run by Alex Jermasek (previously at ink., Chi Spacca and Belcampo) and Daniel Roderfeld (previously at Eataly & Dean & DeLuca) principal.

One is the restaurant in charge of Curtis Stone and his team. The main ingredients come from the butcher shop in front, and they are mostly cooked by open fire barbecue.

So, if you are a vegetarian, I would advise you to think twice.

6.Maude's trained manager Ben Aviram also moved to Gwen to take charge of the big picture, which is the main factor why the service will still be great; the drink list is also provided by Veteran Mitchel Bushell (former sommelier for French Laundry, Alinea and Maude)

7. The restaurant covers a total area of 7,000 square feet and has 83 seats. It is reasonably divided into Chef's counter (you can see the chefs cooking), the dining room usually suitable for 4 people, and the outdoor patio patio . The à la carte menu “Butcher Scraps” is then available in the bar area with only 6 seats and in the wine room with only 6 seats as well. The second floor of the restaurant is where Curtis Stone and his team develop new dishes

Chef & Owner Profile: Curtis Stone

In this era where chefs are full of handsome guys and beauties, it is not easy to become a well-known chef. In addition to satisfying the taste buds of customers, you also need a seductive appearance (really an era of face-seeing !), and today's Chef Curtis Stone is the perfect combination of both, blond hair, a sun-kissed smile, and amazing cooking.

Australian-born handsome chef Curtis Stone, nicknamed The Quiet Terminator, became an instant hit in the United States in 2008 with the reality show "Take Home Chef." Internationally renowned chef, TV presenter, entrepreneur, New York Times best-selling author, has been voted "Top 50 Sexiest Men in the World" by Glam'mag Magazine and one of London's Best in London Dining Guide. One of the best chefs.

Curtis, who was born in Melbourne, Australia, has been interested in food since he was a child. I believe it all has something to do with his grandmother who loves to cook and his mother who is a Pastry Chef. Since he was four years old, he often cooks with his grandmother. Teaching him cooking skills from a young age made him extremely interested in the cooking world, which provided great help and influence for his future career development. So the name of this Maude restaurant is also taken in honor of grandma. Another Grandma "Gwen" owns a livestock farm in Melbourne, which is why the butcher shop is named after the grandma.

He started his culinary career at the age of 18 and traveled around Europe to experience gourmet cuisine. After obtaining a business degree and a certificate in culinary training, he went to London, England to get his first job under the apprenticeship of three-Michelin-star chef Marco Marco Pierre White, working at his Café Royal, won White's trust and appreciation, and he was promoted to head chef to sous chef at another restaurant, Mirabelle, during which time the restaurant was awarded one Michelin star. He then spent four years at the acclaimed Quo Vadis, named one of the best chefs in London.

In 2003, the 27-year-old Curtis and Ben O'Donoghue partnered with the food show "Surfing the Menu" to open the first chapter of TV's food career. In addition to cooking, the two handsome sunshine boys are all over Australia. Cook while having fun, and become the most eye-catching "surf chef" with food and body. It is also because of the success of this show that the appearance of "Take Home Chef" in 2006 laid the groundwork. The "stalk" of the blue-eyed handsome guy accompany you home to cook makes more people fall in love with this handsome chef. After winning the ratings, best-selling author and other achievements, the handsome guy actually found a beautiful actress Lindsay Price (the star of Dongzhen Witch) as his wife, and then gave birth to two lovely sons, (winners in life, there are No) so he stayed in Los Angeles completely~

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【小浣熊Alice探店】Gwen 洛杉矶肉食餐厅新高度

Gwen Butcher Shop: 6600 Sunset Blvd , Los Angeles, CA 90028

Butcher Shop Hours:

Mon 10am - 7pm

Tues - Sat 10am - 10pm,

Sun 10am - 4pm, 

Restaurant Opening Hours: Tuesday - Saturday

Coffee & Sweet Treats: 7am - 4pm

Lunch: 11.00am - 2.30pm

Dinner: 5.00pm - Midnight


是的,在这个看脸的社会中,帅气美丽的脸蛋是你步入成功的敲门砖,但是真正的实力才可以为你赢来尊重,今天想要来聊聊的就是曾经入围People杂志,入选全球性感男人前50名的公认帅哥主厨Curtis Stone在洛杉矶的第二家餐厅Gwen,再次证明了实力比脸蛋更重要。

Curtis Stone于2015年在比佛利山庄开了第一家属于自己的餐厅Maude,很快就轰动全城,成为新一代的风向标。

决定再接再厉的他,拉上了自己的兄弟,在2016年7月让第二家餐厅Gwen成功开幕。并且这一次和Maude一样,同样用的是祖母(另外一个)的名字。

如果说Maude是以素食为导向,专注时令植蔬的每月定制餐厅,那么Gwen就是全心全意为肉食动物准备的“Men’s Cave”。不想局限自己的主厨,这次再次完美的突破了自己。Maude是对植蔬的试探,那么Gwen就是对肉类的报复,如同生活中白玫瑰VS红玫瑰,各有各的风采,各有各的特色。 

和抢破头的Maude必须提前2个月,在月初的第一个工作日早上电话抢订的政策不同,想要进入这家餐厅享受主厨特制的Tasting Menu就必须通过全新的订餐系统Tock完成抢票的活动。

售票单位以2人起跳,也只有秘密的Tasting Menu可供选择,5道菜目前售价$190 /2 Person,不包括税收,小费和饮料,团体订位(6人)需要电话询问。

其实从名字你就能看出端倪,这里不仅仅是一家餐厅,Gwen Butcher Shop & Restaurant更是一间主打欧风的顶级肉铺。也就说在解决了洛杉矶人民无处吃顶级烤肉的前提下,还解决了我们找不到地方购买顶级肉食材料的难题。

所以,和你想的一样,整个店会被分为2个部分,一个是每周7日都营业的欧洲风格肉铺(Butcher Shop),一个是以肉食为导向的餐厅


肉铺

走进餐厅首先看到的就是带着小清新风格的欧式肉铺,虽然在你面前悬挂着的是可能是整只的动物,但是却不会让你觉得惊恐,更加不会有奇怪的味道,飘到鼻尖的都是咸香的肉味和淡淡的碳烤香气。

看着擦的透亮玻璃里整齐摆放的新鲜肉类,让即便是不爱下厨的人都会有冲动尝试一下Homemade的魅力。而干腌式作坊里正在等待时间的流逝,从而实现蛋白质的转换。让你突然发现,原来逛肉铺也可以成为一种享受。


环境

这栋建筑建于1920s年代,至今已近百年历史,纽约布鲁克林的室内设计公司The hOmE Studio(Evan and Oliver Haslegrave)利用建筑原本的风貌,完美的复刻了黄金时代的一切美好,却又带着一点蒸汽朋克的迷幻色彩。

餐厅总占地7千尺,设有83个餐位,被合理的分为4个部分,Chef’s counter, dining room, patio以及 bar area。

水蓝色的天鹅绒长椅,悬挂的水晶吊灯、Chinchilla barstools椅子都是Art Deco和哥特的体现。

而光泽饰面与粗糙水泥,黑与白的对比则带出了超现实主义的意味,恍惚间意味置身于黑客帝国或盗梦空间般的片场之中。

当然最吸引人的则是玻璃罩后熊熊火焰下的室内地炉(fire pit)和下了重金的阿根廷风格碳烤烧烤炉(Argentine-style asador),看着正在热力作用下的烤盘和慢慢渗出油脂的肉块,你就会对当天的主菜更加期待。

小浣熊为了看得更清楚特别选择了最难买的Chef’s Counter, 笑容可掬的当班小厨Richard告诉我们他将负责我们的晚餐。

大理石台面上的粉色小灯和特别用蜡油封印的酒单更是萌的我们一脸血。

定睛一看,怎么连洛杉矶的Food Truck之王Roy Choi也带着家属前来品鉴,是考察还是偷师呢(科科)没想到坐在我旁边的也是Chef,看来大家都是有备而来哦。


不光是食材来源于农贸市场,即便是鸡尾酒这里也讲究时令这一个元素,每一季都会有所改变。漂亮的调酒遵循了不浪费,但是花枝招展的原则,每一杯都美的让你心仪。

不会过重的酒精含量让你最多只会微醺,恰到好处的糖浆不会让你觉得甜度压住了酒香,最难得则是用心,每一款鸡尾酒的用最适合的杯子来盛放,增添了几分优雅。

甚至用心到给自己的冰块印上专属的Logo,凭借细节打动我们。

红酒配牛排乃是天作之合,所以这里的葡萄酒窖藏也叫一个丰富多彩,从近郊的Santa Barbara到遥远的欧洲,都会有精选的美酒在等着你。

上菜

First Bites 

主厨带领肉铺挑出的各式腌肉熏肉小点来开胃,也顺便展示一下自己肉铺和干腌作坊的实力。

Duck Speck 咸鸭火腿

用的鸭胸为原料做成的鸭肉火腿,仅用盐腌渍然后用2周的时间干燥熟成,之后再用苹果木冷熏。而正如名字一样,这片鸭肉的“Speck”(肥)油香相当醇厚,带着一丝淡淡的酸香。油香余韵悠长。请放心,绝对没有一丁点儿让你不悦的鸭骚味。

Spanish Chorizo西班牙辣味香肠 

原产地西班牙的辣味香肠是一种发酵干燥处理后成型的猪肉香肠。辣味的元素的来源,是先对时令的辣椒烤,然后再加入西班牙原产地的烟熏红辣椒粉pimenton dulce,这才能打造出着种滋味浓郁,略带辛辣口感的烟熏味香肠。

Pork and liver Terrine 猪+鸡肝肉酱

两种看似不着边际的食材其实相当的Match,猪肉的油润香气正好可以平衡肝脏的土腥味,配上葡萄酒那叫一个享受。

Flax Seed Biscotti意大利脆饼

用亚麻籽等多种坚果打造的意大利薄脆饼干,绝对是刷嘴的小零食。除了咖啡以外,这种脆饼的最佳搭档是酒,最传统的会搭配意大利经典甜酒——圣酒Vin Santo,而我用它来配我的鸡尾酒。

Focaccia

这个带有漂亮气孔,Q弹非常但是表皮酥脆的佛卡夏面包第一口就轻易征服了味蕾,有酵母般的香气又能感受到那在舌尖跳跃的空气感,还有那香香的橄榄油滋味。

本来还以为是洛杉矶知名的欧包供货商提供的好味道,没想到一问之下,居然是自家烘焙,也真的服了他们的用心。但是转念一想也对,都这么下血本建造了燃烧室,那么不用来烤一烤面包练练手也太浪费了。

最适合涂抹在面包上的肉酱,不腥不腻不咸,好似厚实的泡沫一样。当你将它抹上面包的时候,你似乎能够感觉到它被粗大气孔一点点吸收的动态。

Chewy Beets 

吃完了肉铺的开胃小点,迎来了沙拉清爽小盘来洗洗味蕾。

不见得人人都爱的甜菜根小点心也受到了我们欢迎,特别是欧洲樱桃水果干的加入更是画龙点睛,展现出丰富的香味,那属于红肉水果的娇美酸甜和好似黑莓的清爽香气融为一体。淡淡的酸味还很好的平衡了甜菜的甜味。即便是害怕甜菜根土腥味的你,恐怕也挑不出任何毛病。

Marinated Peppers

腌渍的红辣椒一起一点也不辣,橄榄油的香气让人心情跟着愉悦

Grilled Saradines

终于迎来了今天的第一个小高潮,用白杏仁木头烟熏而成的日本沙丁鱼。

日本沙丁鱼其实很难料理,除了小刺多之外还很容易发出腥味,这就是为什么我们通常见到的沙丁鱼都是罐头的缘故。但是日本的沙丁鱼一直名声在外,别看它个头小,但是鱼肉却相当丰富。

在我们面前徐徐冒着烟的果木正在一点点的给刚刚经过按摩皮层之后的沙丁鱼烟熏入味。我很庆幸我可以坐在Chef Table去观察着这里的一举一动,每一个人都在自己的岗位上游动,那种有板有眼,不紧不慢,有条有序的工作状态,好似一组长镜头一样让人觉得舒服。

在漫长的等待之后,迷你鱼排终于烟熏完毕,刷上一层橄榄油,撒上几粒盐巴

然后一切为二,成盘给你享受。 

当我咬下第一口的时候,就被打动。原本沙丁鱼里的小刺已经鱼肉融为一体,香脆的鱼皮在此不表。最重要的是,鱼皮下脂肪被炙烤之后出现的油脂香气,慢慢的在口腔中萦绕,徘徊不去。

Burnt Cucumber Pickles

Summer Squash Hearts Of Palm,Blossoms,Buttermilk

刨成片的黄瓜泡菜卷配上Hearts Of Palm棕榈心(嫩筍)沙拉,一样清爽解腻。用酪奶打成的白色泡沫,配上略带青味的黄瓜果泥,淋上油醋,撒上带有穿透力香气的孜然,看似多种味道混合,却一点也不冲突。

最妙的则是冰镇的葡萄,为什么吃下去之后,葡萄会充盈满着气泡感,甚至有点跳跳糖的感觉?

在询问之下才知道,原来每一粒葡萄里都被填充了香槟气泡,是不是很有想法?

Orecchiette

Pancetta Pickled Fresno Chili,Tomatoes,Pecorino

手工制作的迷你猫耳朵意面配上超香的意大利香草培根面包碎一起出锅,为了让酱料裹的更均匀,还有人专门帮你热乎乎的搅拌好,之后才盛盘,刮上清爽的绵羊奶酪。

说到酱料才是这里的重点这里用了烟熏腩肉Pancetta,这种和培根一样经过腌渍的五花肉还会被加入香料和香草,所以在腌渍的时候就已经香气十足。加入香料和其他香草之后,就这么吊挂一两个月,这样迷迭香,百里香,大蒜,肉豆蔻的香气在腌渍风干的过程中慢慢渗透到肉里,形成独特的香气。

而腌渍过的墨西哥指天椒,小番茄则加入了酸辣两款元素,与意大利培根的香草咸香产生共鸣。番茄的甜美,面包碎的香脆,培根的咸油香气,通过辣味来提点。小小圆圆中间还凹陷的Orecchiette意面狠狠的吸附酱料,让每一口都相当浓郁够味。 

在上桌之时在轻轻的刮上几丝罗马绵羊奶酪(Pecorino Romano)来添味,这种奶酪的味道在山羊奶酪和牛奶奶酪之间,所以不会有太重的腥膻味,而且搭配葡萄酒一起食用,会有清甜味,属于“万金油”角色的它,无论是配面还是佐面包都很好吃。 

每隔一个小时,你就会看到主厨带着喷雾走进熊熊烈火之中去检视肉类,而烧烤主厨则一直站在滚烫的烤炉边挥汗如雨。

要知道大块的肉食要经过至少10个小时的烟熏状态,才能吸收到白色杏仁木的香味。 

主菜篇

关于刀具

工欲善其事,必先利其器。小浣熊通常只在上等的米其林馆子里遇到过好的牛排刀,而这次则在Gwen遇到了法国刀都Thier产的神秘绅士刀Perceval,而且还是经典的9.47牛排刀,真心好给主厨和经理一个大大的赞赏,之前就觉得Maude餐厅,你们就已经再用米其林的规格在要求自己,果不其然,这里也一如既往的延续了这一个传统。打开盒子,里面静静的躺着十几把Perceval可供食客选择,如同一场豪华的礼乐开篇,震撼人心,要知道这货随便半打可就是$700-$880刀!

Perceval是由由法国米其林餐厅主厨Yves Charles创立的品牌,他在这个行业多年,设计理念来源于实践,实用的同时又兼顾了优雅。

牛排好不好吃,自然与食材、火候有关,但是有一个被我们忽略的其实非常重要的因素就是一把削肉如泥的好刀,够锋利、速度够快,你就能吃到牛肉最美味的食客,而Perceval采用钢制,超级锋利却没有锯齿,可以减少破坏肉质的风险。你想想如果钝刀割肉,那要割刀什么时候啊?!不仅会破坏牛肉的纤维,切不断筋络,时间一久,牛肉冷了,香味也随随之消失。

关于食材

对于喜欢吃羊肉的人来说,这$190刀2位客人的套餐还是很划算的,因为主食将会是一道阿根廷烤羊肉4吃,但是因为小浣熊比较爱吃牛肉,所以我们多加了$75美金(2个人)来更换主食,变成一道30天干式熟成的带骨肉眼排咯。

当然如果你是食肉的行家就可以揪团和朋友一起来试试澳大利亚最顶级、世界上最昂贵的Blackmore肋眼牛排,(另加$390 for 4,42oz)让一定是可以让你飞龙在天饕餮享受。要知道Blackmore牛排在美国USA独家代理权就都在这对Stone兄弟的手上。

精选自Creekstone Farms农场的牛排自然是质量的保障,除了牛生前被悉心照顾之外,还是一直吃玉米长大的,这样才能形成那漂亮的平均分布的油花,当然肉味更浓。

美国人最好的这一口就是牛肉,其中又以干式熟成最受待见,牛肉在一定的温度和适度下奥慢慢经过蛋白质发酵的过程,慢慢的熟成。说简单点,就是和我们华人的金华火腿、风干鸡差不多一个道理,这种经过干式熟成的牛肉会更紧实,更富有弹性,而风味也会随着时间的流动而更加浓郁,就连肉里的甜度也会跟着增加

因为长时间的发酵,肉的表层就会干燥发硬,当然时间越久这个干硬的部分就会更多,而这里就是我们所说的损耗部分,在烹饪的时候一般都要玩玩全全修掉,然后直接扔到垃圾箱的。相对于菲力牛排来说,肉眼排的损耗率算是相当低的,毕竟脂肪含量比较大,这就是为什么菲力干式熟成会那么贵的原因。而肉眼则相对平价一些

至于牛排火候,牛肉的生熟程度,这里全部要靠厨师的功力了,仅用盐和胡椒调味,上桌的时候就足以惊艳。当然切肉也是一门学位,切的时候特别选择了半肥半瘦的,这样的牛排既有脂肪的香气,又韧又多汁。带骨带筋,肥而不腻,肉而不柴,一款牛肉多种享受。肉质松软多汁,滋味浓郁,肉质极具弹性,一口吃下去,满嘴尽是油润的香气和独特的肉甜味,那满满的肉汁全部所在肉中,每一口都是大满足。

这款2人份的带骨肉眼排就已经足够美味的让人肝都颤动了,完全让我找回了在Chi Spacca吃肉的豪迈享受。

果然是经过千锤百炼工匠之手打造的极品刀,鋒利得很,一刀切下,牛扒筋肉完美分离,好一个妙字。

配菜则是甜美的玉米粒、香滑的茄子和脆脆的四季豆。

甜点

Melon

吃了那么重口的牛肉,一份小小的蜜瓜Sorbet刚刚好洗掉味蕾上的多重刺激。

Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta,Almond,Cherry,Peach

杏桃可口的冰淇淋,底下洒满了烤的脆脆香香的杏仁,用白兰地腌渍的樱桃带着淡淡酒香。即便是不爱吃的奶酪的人也不会讨厌这里的条状Panna Cotta,甜而不腻,软而不绵。

非常感谢Gwen团队给了我们如此美妙的一顿。对了,这里会自动收取18%的Tips哦 

关于 肉铺

欧式的风格,干净又明朗,既有出售精选的新鲜猪牛羊肉,也设有干腌作坊(不过还需要时间等待)。你甚至可以透过玻璃清晰的看到那悬挂着的一排排腌肉、咸鸭子和各式香肠,让人一度回想起儿时过年时家家户户晒咸肉的场景。 

这里的香肠种类也繁多,比如近年来走红的北非香肠,意大利甜肠,到百里香入味等等。

在这里你可以买到超级许多应季的肉食,比如苏格兰松鸡肉、鹿肉、野猪肉,各种传统草料喂养的家禽和第戎鸡;

甚至还有别处罕见的多款猪肉,要知道美国的猪肉好吃的真心少,而这里则会贩售美国原生饲养小猪Red-wattle hog,黑猫骡蹄猪Mulefoot hog,英格兰花猪Gloucestershire Old Spot 和英格兰红棕猪 Tamworth hogs等等各式猪种;

说到牛肉这里更是让人瞠目结舌,想吃到澳洲有史以来最贵的肉类摩尔和牛的话,就来这里,因为Gwen拿到了USA的独家代理权;当然还有南加地区的首个Five Dot Ranch beef(Napa有名农场)的代理权。

还有小浣熊最爱的鹅肝呀!!!我还真的买了回家吃,只能说完全没有一丁点腥味,好吃的要醉了,我甚至帮它当做肉味冰淇淋在享用。

最后我们来梳理一下餐厅特色

1.2015年,Maude(Grandma的名字)在洛杉矶开幕,同时也是Curtis Stone在本地的第一家餐厅,以每月一个应季食材为主题制作创意料理而成名。目前Maude的主厨由之前的副主厨Justin Hilbert接手

2. Gwen也是一个名字,( Curtis Stone另一个Grandma),Gwen是一位在澳大利亚墨尔本专业的畜牧业养殖户,其实在首家餐厅Maude大获成功之后,Gwen就被提上了日程,最初打算是拉着刚从洛杉矶肉食界的扛把子餐厅Chi Spacca退下的前主厨Chad Colby 一起合作,但是后期因为理念上的分歧导致合作的破裂,但是Curtis Stone迅速拉上自己的亲兄弟Luke一起,重温儿时的回忆,要知道在走出澳大利亚之前,这兄弟俩都曾经在肉铺工作过。

3. 和抢破头的Maude必须提前2个月,在月初的第一个工作日早上电话抢订的政策不同,想要进入这家餐厅享受主厨特制的Tasting Menu就必须通过全新的订餐系统Tock完成抢票的活动。这个系统和芝加哥顶级餐厅Alinea, Next系出同源,因为这是他们背后的老板Nick Kokonas推出订餐系统。

4. 售票单位以2人起跳,也只有秘密的Tasting Menu可供选择,$190 /2 Person,不包括税收,小费和饮料,目前团体订位(6人需要电话询问)。

5. 其实从名字你就能看出端倪,这里不仅仅是一家餐厅,Gwen Butcher Shop & Restaurant更是一间主打欧风的顶级肉铺。也就说在解决了洛杉矶人民无处吃顶级烤肉的前提下,还解决了我们找不到地方购买顶级肉食材料的难题。

所以,和你想的一样,整个店会被分为2个部分。一个是每周7日都营业的欧洲风格肉铺(Butcher Shop),由Alex Jermasek (之前曾就职于 ink., Chi Spacca和Belcampo) 和 Daniel Roderfeld (之前曾就职于 Eataly & Dean & DeLuca)主理。

一个则是由Curtis Stone和其团队主管餐厅,主要的食材来源于前面的肉铺,多以明火烧烤的方式来烹饪。

所以,如果你是素食主义者的话,就要劝你三思了。

6.Maude训练有素的经理Ben Aviram也转到Gwen负责主持大局,这就是为什么服务依然会很棒的最主要因素;酒水单的提供者也是经验丰富的老将Mitchel Bushell(曾经担任French Laundry, Alinea 和 Maude的侍酒师)

7.餐厅总占地7千尺,设有83个餐位,被合理的分为Chef’s counter (可以看到厨师们做菜的),通常适合4个人的The dining room,户外露台patio。之后在只有6个座位的bar area和同样只有6个座位的葡萄酒室可以另外使用单点菜单“Butcher Scraps”。餐厅的2楼则是Curtis Stone和其团队研发新菜的地方

主厨 & 老板 简介:Curtis Stone

在这个主厨尽是帅哥和美女的时代,想要成为知名的厨师也非易事,除了能满足顾客的味蕾之外,还需要一个养眼的外表(真的是一个看脸的时代!),而今天的主厨Curtis Stone就是完美的结合了以上两个优点的家伙,金发碧眼,阳光般笑容和让人无比惊艳的美妙厨艺。

生长在澳大利亚的帅哥主厨Curtis Stone,绰号The Quiet Terminator,2008年凭借真人秀节目《Take Home Chef》在美国一炮而红。国际知名主厨,电视节目主持人,企业家,纽约时报的畅销书作家,更是曾被Glam'mag杂志评选为“全球最性感的前50名男人”和《伦敦餐饮指南》中的伦敦最佳厨师之一。

出生在澳大利亚墨尔本的Curtis从小就对食物富有兴趣,相信这一切都和他那个喜爱下厨的奶奶和身为Pastry Chef的妈妈有关。四岁开始他就经常和奶奶一起下厨,从小教授他烹调技巧,让他对烹饪世界产生了极其浓厚的兴趣,为他日后的事业发展提供了很大的帮助和影响。所以这家Maude餐厅的名字也是为了纪念奶奶而取得。而另外一个Grandma “Gwen”则在墨尔本拥有一个畜牧养殖场,这就是为什么这家肉店会以这个奶奶命名的原因。

18岁时开始正式从事厨艺事业,游历欧洲各国体验美食,在取得商业学位和厨艺培训的证书之后,前往英国伦敦的他得到了第一份工作,拜师于米其林三星主厨Marco Pierre White,在其Café Royal上班,赢得White的信任与赏识后,他被提升为主厨,转任另一家餐厅Mirabelle的副主厨,在其任职期间,餐厅获得米其林一星的荣耀。后来更在广受好评的Quo Vadis任职四年,被伦敦评为最佳的主厨之一。

2003年,27岁的Curtis与Ben O’Donoghue搭档的美食节目《Surfing the Menu》开启了电视美食事业的第一篇章,除了做菜之外,两位帅气的阳光男孩在澳洲的各地边玩乐边做菜,用美食+肉体搭配成为最吸引人眼球的“冲浪主厨”。也是因为这个节目的成功,让2006年的《Take Home Chef》出现埋下了伏笔。蓝眼睛帅哥陪你回家做菜的“梗”让更多的人爱上了这位帅哥主厨。在赢得了收视率,畅销书作家等成绩之后,帅哥居然找了一个美女演员Lindsay Price(东镇女巫的主演)作为老婆,之后更是生下两个可爱的儿子,(人生赢家呀,有木有)所以他就彻底的在洛杉矶住下来咯~

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