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Yami

Jingdong book

巴塔哥尼亚高原上

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巴塔哥尼亚高原上

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书中的九十七个故事都是精心选择的,用来说明人生卡住了,该怎么办?
图书销售商甚至为本书开辟了一个新门类:新非虚构文学。
查特文的第一部书用文字对应着祖母的橱柜,书中九十七个章节仿佛一张张抽屉,将一组组独特眼光发现的故事分门别类装好。查特文一再坚持自己恪守传统形式,可大多数读者并不苟同。图书销售商甚至为该书开辟了一个新门类:新非虚构文学。
书中所有故事都精心选择,以阐明流浪及流亡的一个特定方面,也就是说:人生卡住了,该怎么办?全书可以视为一部该隐和亚伯神话的隐喻。
在巴塔哥尼亚本地,查特文的书带来了一些效应。“该写点什么,说说那些人手一本《巴塔哥尼亚高原上》的外国佬,”当地人说,“那本书就是他们的《圣经》。”
读完《巴塔哥尼亚高原上》之后,查特文为读者留下两个选择:其一,下一年就收拾行装,动身去巴塔哥尼亚;其二,做一趟“心灵象征之旅,对漂泊不定的人生,以及不屈不挠的精神作一番沉思”。
Content Description

传奇,是查特文不算长的一生*贴切的批注。拥有不安分的灵魂,随时可以开始一场说走就走的旅行,带着心爱的鼹鼠皮(Moleskin)笔记本四处游历。
查特文天生是说故事的高手,把虚构故事和旅途经历编织得天衣无缝。
故事始于祖母家玻璃橱柜内的一小块“雷龙皮”。在查特文幼年的心里,这片毛皮就像一把钥匙,不经意为他打开一扇通往神秘国度巴塔哥尼亚的窗户。1972年某天,他在巴黎出席设计大师艾琳?格雷举办的沙龙时,看到一幅南美洲巴塔哥尼亚高原地图,直呼我一直想去那里。就这样,他从报社辞职了。
一个月后查特文置身巴塔哥尼亚的荒芜中,这里“一片空无……是一条各种文化在其中打转的黑巷”。巴塔哥尼亚并非地图上特定的区域,而是一片不明确的广大领域。它可以用土壤来区分,也可以用气候来形容:这儿的强风可以一路从十月吹到三月,能让《小王子》作者圣埃克苏佩里的飞机往后,而不是往前飞。查特文说,强风“可以将你生吞活剥”。
这份苍凉、孤绝的力道足以迫人回归自我,查特文也试图在此思考“孤独”这一永恒的主题。在这趟自童年即预约下来、奔向世界尽头的旅程中,查特文没有去做个人评判,而是客观地说着一篇篇令人耳目一新的旅行故事。

Author Description

布鲁斯·查特文(Bruce Chatwin),1940年生于英国谢菲尔德一个中产阶级家庭,曾是苏富比历史上*年轻的董事之一。1972年起任职于《星期日时报》,之后突然以一封电报宣告,即将出发去展开他人生的新旅程:“去巴塔哥尼亚六个月。”这趟旅程启发查特文完成他的首部作品《巴塔哥尼亚高原上》,这本书出版后获得英国“豪森登奖”及美国“佛斯特奖”的青睐。查特文将现实与想象结合在一起的写作方法,被《卫报》评论为“本书重新定义了旅行写作”。
其他代表作有《乌兹》《歌之版图》《在黑山上》《所为何来》《威达的总督》,等等。
margin:0;margin-bottom:0;text-indent:32px;line-height:25px; background:white'>一个月后查特文置身巴塔哥尼亚的荒芜中,这里“一片空无……是一条各种文化在其中打转的黑巷”。巴塔哥尼亚并非地图上特定的区域,而是一片不明确的广大领域。它可以用土壤来区分,也可以用气候来形容:这儿的强风可以一路从十月吹到三月,能让《小王子》作者圣埃克苏佩里的飞机往后,而不是往前飞。查特文说,强风“可以将你生吞活剥”。
这份苍凉、孤绝的力道足以迫人回归自我,查特文也试图在此思考“孤独”这一永恒的主题。在这趟自童年即预约下来、奔向世界尽头的旅程中,查特文没有去做个人评判,而是客观地说着一篇篇令人耳目一新的旅行故事。

Book Abstract

巴塔哥尼亚的与世隔绝很容易将固有的性格放大:嗜饮者酩酊大醉,虔诚者日夜祷告,孤独者更趋孤独,甚至付出生命的代价。汤姆·琼斯曾任驻蓬塔·阿雷纳斯领事,1961 年出版回忆录《巴塔哥尼亚全景》(A Patagonian Panorama),书中写道:“据我所知,有二十多人结束了自己的生命,其中有几位与我颇为熟悉。这些人自杀的动机我不敢确定,或许是此地残酷的气候,或许是劳累一天过后,营帐中的生活过于寂寞,也或许是一轮豪饮之后,突发忏悔之心。”
19 世纪70 年代末,巴塔哥尼亚最早的一批牧羊者从福克兰群岛来到此地。时至今日,他们的后代仍顽固地坚持着先辈的文化传统。恰如巴塔哥尼亚被一条国境线分为两个国家,这里的居民也过着分裂的人生,常常从一个地方逃出来,却又拼命在另一个地方重建故乡。山谷越是偏远,居民对于故乡就越发忠诚,力图再现故乡的一切,以至于一砖一瓦、一草一木。在盖曼,当地的威尔士后裔依旧用威尔士方言唱赞美诗;在里奥·皮科,当地德裔居民种羽扇豆和樱桃;在萨缅托,当地波尔人后裔依旧晒比尔通牛肉干。恰如查特文在自己日记中所写:“越是远离文明的伟大中心,重建杜巴丽夫人的奇妙世界的念头就越发强烈。”
巴塔哥尼亚绝大部分土地贫瘠荒芜,可从另外一个角度来看,又是极其肥沃。查特文很快就发现了这一点,他写道:“在巴塔哥尼亚旅行可谓是让人瞠目结舌的一次经历,无论走到何处,都会撞上某个稀奇古怪的人物,向你讲上一段稀奇古怪的故事。每到一处,根本无须找故事,故事自己就来了……我觉得,此地的大风或许与此有一定关系。”
和加拉帕格斯群岛(Gala Pagos)一样,巴塔哥尼亚最早出现在西方地图上时,这片大地上总是绘着各式各样的奇珍异兽:蓝独角兽、红半人马兽、能叼走大象的巨鹰,还有巨人。今时今日,同那段早期岁月相比,巴塔哥尼亚似乎并没有走多远,这里的人依旧喜欢视此地为巨人的家乡。汤姆·琼斯在回忆录中写道:“这里所说的巨人可不是麦哲伦所提到的巨人,而是许许多多普通人,有男也有女,凭双手之力,令这片广大荒芜、常年狂风怒吼的土地适于居住,进而在文明的道路上繁荣。他们中许多人的祖先来自英国。”今时今日,巴塔哥尼亚大地上不仅恐龙
化石星罗棋布,也散布着许多定居点,有的定居点距最近的公路有三十七英里之遥,定居点上的居民还有使用一些早已过时的用语,例如“里格”。此地人人身材高大,似乎找不到矮于七英尺的;此地蔓延着梦幻(或许也正因为如此,特德·特纳和西尔维斯特·史泰龙才会在此购地置业)。特内西塔·布劳恩—梅内德兹所属的家族对19 世纪巴塔哥尼亚的开发居功至伟,他如此说道:“巴塔哥尼亚独一无二,那种孤独,那种宏伟。这里,一切均有可能。”
和许多人一样,我一面读着查特文的《巴塔哥尼亚高原上》(In Patagonia),一面感受着高原的魅力,虽然隔了一层文字,却觉得更加令人绝倒。此前,我也读过哈德逊、达尔文、卢卡斯·布里奇等人的文章游记,然而就激起我对巴塔哥尼亚的热望而言,无一能与查特文相比。
在人潮汹涌的伦敦,我找到了查特文。我找了个借口,说想拿个法国人的电话号码,就是他书中那个自称巴塔哥尼亚国王的法国人。其实,我就是想见查特文一面。
那时我还记日记,1982 年1 月19 日的日记写道:“早上去见布鲁斯·查特文,终于找到他在伊顿·普雷斯落脚的地方。墙上靠了辆自行车,地板上躺着福楼拜。比我想象中年轻,挺像个波兰流亡者,裤子肥大,面容憔悴,亚麻色的头发已染上灰白。一双蓝眼睛,面容和言语一样犀利。查特文刚刚交了部书稿,是部小说,说的是距克莱罗一英里的两个家族,没有受到现代文明的影响,却彼此争斗不休,时间跨越了两次大战。查特文说起话来就像只小鸟,很逗,有些孩子气,却也不失文采。他说:‘最会骗人的家伙却往往有最犀利的眼光去辨别真伪,这是不是很有意思?’”
查特文在自己的书中为自己画了一幅像:长手长脚,过日子能省一个是一个,自由自在地游荡在特雷利乌附近的沙漠中。这个人寡言少语,说的最长的一句话就是:“我知道了。”查特文自己也对我说:“要是和别人聊天时只用‘哦’上几声,就最开心了。”可后来,我在纳塔莱斯港遇到一位女士,这位女士透露:“查特文先生其实话挺多的。”在澳大利亚的爱丽丝泉,我也曾遇到一位人类学家,向我抱怨道:“他那张嘴,简直能把人给活活说死。”自打我走进那间小小的阁楼,查特文就“嗯”个不停,没多久就把那位自称巴塔哥尼亚和阿劳卡尼亚国王的法国人的电话号码给了我,那人嘴里总是叼着烟斗,有青光眼,在巴黎开一家律师事务所。查特文还给了我其他几个人的号码,有克里特国王,有阿兹特克王位继承人,还有一位自称神仙下凡的波士顿吉他手。作为回报,他想听我谈谈阿根廷。
查特文有一项文学天赋,就是把读者引入到自己的奇思妙想之中。和他真人交谈,也能感受到同样的魅力。查特文的首位编辑,弗朗西斯·温德汉姆如此说道:“交谈中,查特文不仅令你感到一切都不是虚幻,更令你有身临其境之感。从头到尾都是他在说话,可你一样感到故事中有自己。”查特文尤其擅长从萍水相逢的人的口中套出最精彩的故事,然后想象开始自由驰骋。我和查特文初次见面的境况即是如此。
没多会儿,查特文就从我这个住在布宜诺斯艾利斯的毛头小伙子口中套出,我如何为双目失明的博尔赫斯大声朗读,我们家在马丁内兹的房子为何有前特种空勤团队员站岗,守卫又如何用我小弟的书桌放手榴弹。我还说了个自己从萨尔塔听来的故事,说的是一个叫奎米斯的阿根廷独立英雄。据说,高楚斗篷上的色彩就是因他而来:黑色象征奎米斯之死,红色象征他手下战士的鲜血。
奎米斯的故事迷住了查特文。接下来,查特文就让我亲身领教了他说服别人接受自己世界观的本事。我了解过,奎米斯是苏格兰威姆斯地区方言在西班牙语中的发音,高楚斗篷上的色彩也可能来自苏格兰格子呢。听到我的话,查特文蓝眼睛圆睁,手也挥舞起来,向我解释道,近来他正就红这种颜色发展出一家之言。他问我知不知道,加里波第曾在阿根廷的邻国乌拉圭,为当地的独立而战。加里波第曾从蒙得维的亚的仓库中运走一批斗篷布料,回到意大利后,把布料裁剪成“红衫党”的制服,由此引出欧洲历次革命中飘扬在堡垒上空的红旗,直至克里姆林宫上空飘扬的红旗。我不知道。可离开查特文的阁楼时,我已开始相当认真地思考,苏格兰格子呢和社会主义红旗之间是否真的有着什么样的联系。还有件事儿让我兴奋不已,查特文答应陪我去南安普顿,去探访阿根廷前独裁者罗萨斯将军的墓地。流亡英国后,罗萨斯一直在汉普什尔郡养奶牛。当权时,将军在自己的制服外面罩上一件高楚斗篷,他手下那支令人闻风丧胆的骑兵部队科罗拉多斯也一样在制服外面罩上一件斗篷。
那次见面后,我和查特文每年能见上两三面,谈话中还时不时提起计划中的南安普顿之旅,但一直没有成行。它可以等,我们想什么时候去都行。那些年,查特文去了澳大利亚、印度,还有中国。终于有一次,我捉住了他,真是开心。那是一次BBC的电视访谈节目,主题是南美文学,一同参加访谈的嘉宾还有瓦尔加斯·洛萨和博尔赫斯。查特文不喜欢接受访谈,很少在电视节目中露面,那是少有的几次中的一次。当时,我正扶着博尔赫斯往直播间里走,查特文丝毫不掩饰自己的兴奋,大声说道:“他真是个天才!到哪儿都不能落下你的博尔赫斯,就像不能落下牙膏牙刷。”博尔赫斯依靠在我的手臂上,低声说道:“多不卫生!”
查特文英年早逝,没能和我一起去寻访罗萨斯之墓。查特文去世后没多久,罗萨斯的尸骨被运回布宜诺斯艾利斯,重新安葬在雷科莱塔公墓,场面颇为隆重。1992 年,我和查特文的遗孀伊丽莎白一道探访了罗萨斯的新墓,然后向南而行,重走查特文曾经走过的道路。关于罗萨斯的尸骨,最近有一些传言,查特文要是泉下有知,听了也会莞尔一笑。传言说,罗萨斯在南安普顿的墓地当年毁于天雷,现场还炸死了几头牛,现如今,在布宜诺斯艾利斯的漂亮墓地里躺着的更可能是一头母牛被炸焦的尸骨。
……
Introduction

导 言
尼古拉斯·莎士比亚[1]
1
1974 年12 月,三十四岁的布鲁斯·查特文登上南行的夜班长途客车,离开布宜诺斯艾利斯,由此开启了一段由流浪记者到20 世纪后期最新颖独特的作家的蝶变之旅。同年,几乎同日,我走出校门,成为布宜诺斯艾利斯省的一名乡村牛仔。向南远眺,大平原绵绵延展,直通巴塔哥尼亚。
那一年,我十七岁。大平原触目惊心,理所当然。十个月后,我到了狭小、拥挤的英格兰,立马就把那儿的一切给忘到乌有国去了,那儿成群结队的苍蝇,那儿鳞次栉比的马具店,还有那儿的单调和乏味。可命中注定,我还要回去。
六年之后我有机会穿越里奥·内格罗河和丘布特,到火地岛。军政府在路边竖起标语牌,上面写着“认识巴塔哥尼亚,人人有责”,可谁也没有当回事儿。按照一位巴塔哥尼亚作家的说法,巴塔哥尼亚“一无所有,就是一条各种文化盘旋撞击的后街背巷,没什么意思”。
一天清晨,我在特雷利乌以西的泥泞地上等车,一手打着后来在整整一代背包客中流行开的手势,一手从包中掏出一本书。书是廉价版,时至今日,翻开书页,仍能清晰见到当年留下的折印,边白上留着我三次造访巴塔哥尼亚一路上记录下的点点滴滴。
那时候,我对书的作者一无所知,只不过当时那是我能买到的唯一一本和我的目的地有关的书。我翻开第一页,读起第一段。就这么简单,说真的。
巴塔哥尼亚并非地图上的准确地名,而是一大片广阔模糊的地域,横跨阿根廷和智利,足足有近三十五万平方英里。其实,单从地表特征来辨认巴塔哥尼亚反而更快些,只要看到冰川运动留下的玄武岩砾石,还有主宰着大地的低矮灌木,你就知道,自己已立足于巴塔哥尼亚的大地上。巴塔哥尼亚也可以凭气候加以描画:头年10 月起,狂风开始暴虐,一刮就刮到来年3 月,用查特文的话说,“把人吹得就剩把骨头”。狂风肆虐之下,安东尼·德·圣—埃克苏佩里驾驶飞机只能飞反向航线。
这片贫瘠广漠却总能抓住旅行家的想象,自达尔文以降,莫不如此。在特雷利乌博物馆,我发现了一部前辈的日记,记日记的人叫约翰·穆雷·托马斯,一位面色严峻的威尔士人,1877 年7 月起向内陆进发。日记本上若隐若现的铅笔笔迹写道:“昨夜梦见哈丽埃特,仿佛在卧房中,长吻。睡必梦,梦必吻,几乎夜夜如此。”
[1] 尼古拉斯·莎士比亚(Nicholas Shakespeare),英国作家。1957 年出生,青少年时期跟随外交官父亲,在远东和南美地区度过。著有《布鲁斯·查特文传》,作品The Vision of Elena Silves 曾获英国毛姆文学奖、The Dancer Upstairs 获美国图书馆协会年度最佳小说奖。—译者注。

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