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Jingdong book

杂食者的两难:食物的自然史

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杂食者的两难:食物的自然史

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也许你会问,关于吃,还需要别人告诉我们怎么吃吗?面对食物选择困难症、经常外食、点外卖、吃速食、没时间做饭、担心食品安全、重视健康、追求营养瘦身等等这些问题,我们到底为什么吃,要吃什么,怎么吃,在琳琅满目的食品前,在工业化食品供应系统中,我们到底对于吃,还有没有话语权?

这是一本从“饮食简史”到“好好吃饭”的书。重新夺回我们作为食者应有的健康和幸福。摆脱食物选择困惑、打破吃与不吃的两难,认真吃好每一餐。

《纽约时报》、《华盛顿邮报》“年度十佳图书”,饮食界的“文化担当”止庵、韩国辉、陈晓卿、汪冰倾心推荐,喊你一起好好吃饭。

内文用纸采用“太阳纯质”,食品级安全用纸,“用料”安全,请安心阅读,用心吃喝。 谁需要看这本书?

高逼格吃货、所有对美食品质有追求的读者。


Content Description

自从人类开始围坐在一起共同进餐,饮食之道就与文化而不仅仅是生理需求,结下了不解之缘,人类透过饮食,将自然转化为文化。数百万年来,人类已经整合汇编了明智的饮食之道,包括饮食的禁忌、仪式和烹调方式。让我们避开有害的食物,摄取有益的食物,身为杂食者的人类便无须餐餐面对吃与不吃的两难。

然而,20世纪后半期,在工业化食品和不成熟营养学的推波助澜下,人类创造了新的食物链。餐桌上的食物与它的源头越来越远,而人类则萎缩在工业化食物链的末端,丧失了与自然之间的原始记忆,更无从判断哪些食物该吃,哪些不该吃。于是我们发现自己在的卖场与餐桌前面临杂食者的两难:要吃有机苹果还是普通苹果?如果要吃有机苹果,那要吃本地的还是进口的?要吃野生鱼还是养殖鱼?应该吃肉还是吃素?

如果吃素,要吃纯素还是乳素食?

作为美国饮食界的引领者,迈克尔· 波伦长期关注饮食议题,企图在工业社会与田园自然中寻求调和。在本书中,他以田园调查的方式走访农场、研发室、牧场、食品加工厂和超市,从产地一路追踪到餐桌,如侦探般地揭开现代食品的面貌,追寻现代饮食如何成为人类疾病的来源,给出了杂食者“到底要吃什么”的答案。


Author Description

迈克尔·波伦(Michael Pollan)美国首屈一指的饮食作家,其作品多次获得具有“美食奥斯卡”之称的詹姆斯·比尔德奖。

2009年获选《新闻周刊》十大思想领袖,2010年被《时代》周刊评为“全球百位影响力人物”,2013年被《时代》周刊评选为“食物之神”。代表作《杂食者的两难》《烹》《为食物辩护》《吃的法则》至今仍是饮食写作的典范。

现任加州大学伯克利分校的新闻学教授及科学和环境新闻学奈特项目的主任,但迈克尔·波伦更像是一位热爱田野调查的美食侦探,从农场到超市,再到制作出各种美食的厨房,研究食物从产地到餐桌的过程,同时对饮食文化背后的人类社会困境进行思考。他也是自然爱好者,他将走访田园的体验化作优美而幽默的文字,为工业化食物链下的人类,指出一条古朴、美好且真实可行的路。


Comments

“今天正餐该吃什么?”在一个饮食文化浓厚和广泛工业化了的时代,我们对此其实很难回答。我们吃的是什么?它们来自哪里?如何走上我们的餐桌?其真实成本如何?所有这些问题,都在《杂食者的两难》一书中得到深入探讨。这是一部饶有趣味、充分恳切、发人深省而不耸人听闻的作品。

—— 著名作家、文化学者 止庵

我参加的饭局比吃的饭多。面对美食,桌上人常常用几句“好吃”敷衍带过,谁都知道:饱翁之意不在食。但依我看,不认真吃是小事,不认真看待吃则是大事。幸好我们有波伦,他用这套书让我们看到烹饪的方方面面,用人文的、历史的、各种“主义”的方式诠释关于吃的一切。只用嘴对待吃是对食物的一种辜负,因为吃对应的不仅是我们的味蕾与肠胃,还有更广阔的时间维度和深层次的精神层面。

—— 知名媒体人、畅销书作家 韩国辉

*早知道迈克尔·波伦的名字,是因为他参与创作的一部在西方引起轰动的饮食纪录片。而这套书,正是那部纪录片的灵感之源。和许多对现代文明充满困惑的人们一样,作者试图从祖先的智慧里寻找答案。烹饪,不仅是生活的必需,更是人类文明的起点。

——纪录片《舌尖上的中国》总导演 陈晓卿

如果你以为美食就是美食,那你真的需要听听迈克尔·波伦怎么说。读完他的书,我更加确信吃是一个严肃的生存命题。毕竟,人类因为吃而存在。从手尖到舌尖,再从舌尖到心尖,饮食不仅让人与自然融合,也让我们彼此联结。在一个爱自己的时代,当你清楚地意识到吃进去的每一口都有可能成为你的一部分,你也许就不会再随随便便对待每一餐。

—— 北京大学精神卫生学博士、媒体人、编剧 汪冰

“一部深思熟虑、引人入胜的作品!关于食物的来源,你不可能找到比本书更棒的解释了。”

-----《纽约时报》书评


Catalogue

推荐序 饭桌的宽度 III

引 言 全国性饮食失调 V

*部分 产业化的玉米

01 植物:玉米的领地 003

02 农场:一个农民养活129 个人 023

03 大谷仓:粮食玉米和原材料玉米 051

04 饲养场:制造肉类 061

05 加工处理厂:制造合成食物 083

06 消费者:脂肪共和国 101

07 一顿餐点:快餐 113

第二部分 田园牧草

08 凡有血气的,尽都如草 129

09 大型有机:超市中的田园诗 143

10 牧草:看待草地的13 种方式 195

11 动物:体验复杂性 221

12 屠宰:在透明的屠宰场中 241

13 市场:来自拒绝条形码者的问候 255

14 餐点:牧草喂养的食物 281

第三部分 个人森林

15 采集者:自然是一家巨大的餐厅 297

16 杂食者的两难 309

17 吃动物合乎道德吗? 327

18 狩猎:肉类 359

19 采集:真菌 389

20 完美的一餐 417


Book Abstract

在某种程度上,“正餐要吃什么”这个问题,一直困扰着杂食动物。毕竟自然界的东西你几乎都可以吃,因此决定要吃什么,当然会引起焦虑,特别是有些食物很可能会致病甚至致命。这是“杂食者的两难”,卢梭与法国作家布理勒特–萨瓦林(Brillat-Savarin)老早就指出这一点,而宾夕法尼亚大学心理学家保罗·罗津(Paul Rozin)则在三十多年前提出这一名词。我借用这个词作为本书标题,因为杂食者的两难可鲜明描绘出我们目前在食物方面的困境。

什么都能吃是一项天大的恩惠,但挑战也不少。好处是人类可以成功在地球上所有陆地环境中生存,而且吃的种类多,得到的乐趣也多。然而过多选择也会造成压力,甚至导致我们对食物产生二元论的观点,亦即好食物和坏食物。

区分食物非常重要,一只老鼠多少得靠自己区别哪些食物是有营养的、哪些是有毒的,然后牢记下来。然而身为杂食者的人类, 除了有敏锐的感官与过人的记忆力,还可仰赖文化所带来的巨大优势,其中累积了无数前人的食物经验与智慧。光是看到“毒鹅膏” (death cap)这样明白的三个字,不需要任何经验也知道这种蘑菇吃不得;而*个大胆吃下龙虾的人,想必就尝到了绝佳美味。人类在博大精深的文化中,整合汇编了饮食之道的智慧,包括饮食的禁忌、仪式、烹调方式、规则。有了这些饮食传统,身为杂食者的人类便无须餐餐面对吃与不吃的两难。

于是我们发现自己在超市与餐桌前面临杂食者的两难,有些两难非常古老,有些却是前所未见。要吃有机苹果还是一般苹果?如果要吃有机苹果,那要吃本地产品还是进口货?要吃野生鱼还是养殖鱼?要吃含有反式脂肪的奶油、一般奶油,或者“不是奶油”的奶油?应该吃肉还是吃素?如果吃素,要吃纯素还是乳素食?当采猎时代的人在树林里采摘到一朵新奇蘑菇时,他是靠自己的感官记忆来判断是否可以吃,同样地,我们也在超市中拿起一包食物,却对自己的感官失去了信心,反而仔细阅读食品标签,上面许多费解的词汇让我们抓耳挠腮:“有益心脏”“不含反式脂肪”“散养”“圈养”。而“天然烤肉风味”“叔丁基对苯二酚”(TBHQ)和“黄原胶”又是什么?这些林林总总的东西究竟是从哪里冒出来的?

这趟探险的终点,是我认定的“完美的一餐”。不是由于美味(虽然就我的浅见,这一餐真的很棒),而是因为准备时付出了大量心血与劳动,并且是与采集的同伙一起分享。对过着现代生活的我而言,这是难能可贵的机会,我得以完全了解自己所吃下的每样东西,生平*次亲自承担一顿餐食的因果。虽然这三段旅程(加上四顿餐食)的内容是如此不同,但是一些相同的主题却不时浮现。其中一个是,在逻辑上,自然界与人类工业之间有着根本的紧张关系,至少目前的状况是如此。人类在饮食上具有非凡的创造力,但是人类的科技在许多方面都与自然的运作之道背向而驰,例如我们为了追求*高产量而大规模种植单一作物、饲养单一动物。这种状况绝不可能在自然界发生,大自然会以各种方式维持物种多样性。我们总想在食物链的生产端与食用端过度简化大自然的复杂性,结果是人类生产食物的系统酿成了许多健康与环境问题。在任何食物链的两端你都可以找到一种生物系统,若不是一片土地,便是一具人体,而两者的健康息息相关。人类目前面临的许多健康与营养问题,都可以追溯到农场的运作方式,但这些运作方式背后的政府政策却鲜为人知。

工业化饮食*棘手与悲哀之处,在于其彻底掩埋了人类与各物种的关系与联系。在人类把“原鸡”(Gallus gallus)变成麦乐鸡块的过程中,世界亦进入了一趟遗忘的旅程;在这趟旅程中,我们付出了昂贵的代价,不仅包括动物的痛苦,还有人类的欢愉。但是这种“遗忘”正是产业化食物链的目的(或许一开始我们并不知道)。主要原因非常晦涩难解,但如果我们能够看到产业化农业高墙背后的真相,我们就会改变自己的饮食方式。

一如美国作家温德尔·贝里(Wendell Berry)的名言:“饮食就是农业活动。”然而饮食也是生态活动和政治活动,只不过许多事情都掩盖了这个简单事实。人类吃什么、怎么吃,强烈决定了人类利用这个世界的方式,以及改变世界的幅度。吃东西时更清楚了解进食的全部风险,似乎是一种负担,但实际上这件事所带来的满足感,也是生命中其他事物难以比拟的。相较之下,人们在工业化饮食中对于食物一无所知,得到的乐趣也弹指即逝。许多身处产业化食物链末端的人们,对于现状十分满足且毫无想法,那么这本书可能不适合他们,因为书中的内容会让他们胃口尽失。不过到头来,这还是一本关于饮食乐趣的书,越了解饮食,从中得到的乐趣才会越多。


Introduction

饭桌的宽度

无论饭桌是圆是方,是大是小,面对饭桌上的食物是每个人的日常,却又肯定超出了食物本身。拿中国的饭局文化举例,从古至今,这哪是一桌子的菜,这明明就是一桌子的人情世故,你来我往。房内人话天下事,由眼前美食引发心中感悟,一顿饭下来,吃没吃饱没关系,重要的是食者的关系。这还不够,如果我们将目光再放久远一些:现代社会中的食品是如何生产出来的?速食、慢食、各种吃的革命是如何改变我们的生活方式?在错综复杂的食品产业链中,我们是如何被欺骗,被抛弃,被迫反抗?

迈克尔 · 波伦让我们看到了一张浩瀚的桌面,这个饭桌的桌面从食物延伸到世界连锁企业、政治体制、历史习俗等更为广阔的维度,将几个人的饭桌扩大为整个人类的语境,从社会学、哲学的诸多角度让我们明白:从“吃”出发,我们能够看到的画面竟如此丰富。这位叱咤食评界多年的老江湖为我们展开了一幅幅恢弘的画卷:食品健康安全、社会权力结构、资本主义中的各类关系……*级吃货吃饭的嘴了得,说话的嘴更了得。

近来,我参加的饭局比吃的饭多。面对各式各样的美食,桌上人常常几句“好吃”敷衍带过。依我看,不认真吃是小事,不认真看待吃则是大事。因此,“今天去哪儿吃,吃什么”一定是一个哲学问题,我没有开玩笑。

知名媒体人、畅销书作家 韩国辉

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Yami 30-days Return

Yami-China FC

Yami has a consolidation warehouse in China which collects multiple sellers’ packages and combines to one order. Our Yami consolidation warehouse will directly ship the packages to your door. Cross-store free shipping over $69.

Return Policy

You may return products within 30 days upon receiving the products. Sellers take responsibilities for any wrong shipment or missing items. Packing needs to be unopened for any other than quality issues return. We promise to pack carefully, but because goods are taking long journey to destinations, simple damages to packaging may occur. Any damages not causing internal goods quality problems are not allowed to return. If you open the package and any quality problem is found, please contact customer service within three days after receipt of goods.

Shipping Information

Yami Consolidation Service Shipping Fee $9.99(Free shipping over $69)

Sellers in China will ship their orders within 1-2 business days once the order is placed. Packages are sent to our consolidation warehouse in China and combined there. Our Yami consolidation warehouse will directly ship the packages to you via UPS. The average time for UPS to ship from China to the United States is about 10 working days and it can be traced using the tracking number. Due to the pandemic, the delivery time may be delayed by about 5 days. The package needs to be signed by the guest. If the receipt is not signed, the customer shall bear the risk of loss of the package.

Sold by JD@CHINA

Service Guarantee

Free shipping over 69
Genuine guarantee

Shipping

Yami Consolidated Shipping $9.99(Free shipping over $69)


Seller will ship the orders within 1-2 business days. The logistics time limit is expected to be 7-15 working days. In case of customs clearance, the delivery time will be extended by 3-7 days. The final receipt date is subject to the information of the postal company.

Yami Points information

All items are excluding from any promotion or points events on Yamibuy.com

Return Policy

You may return product within 30 days upon receiving the product. Items returned must be new in it's original packing, including the original invoice for the purchase. Customer return product at their own expense.

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About the brand

Jingdong book

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About the brand

Jingdong book