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Jingdong book

奢侈:爱马仕总裁回忆录

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奢侈:爱马仕总裁回忆录

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Editer Recommend

融合家族、品牌、集团、金钱、权力、荣耀、传统、创意、人书写性、欲望、品质与美的体认与
一本朴素手艺精神结合现代企业管理的商界教科书
一本纵横年代、地域视野,探讨美与创意之源的格调典范

Content Description

一次很偶然的机会,布朗卡特进入奢侈品行业,并空降到爱马仕这一豪华的星球。此书是他2009年从爱马仕离任后以日记体呈现的回忆录。在书中,作者记录了在爱马仕担任CEO期间与全球各界名流的交往和这个行业的故事,而这些故事通常断断续续写于旅途与公差途中。无论如何,此书的中心仍然是爱马仕这个奢侈品王国,它的理念、它的工匠、它的神秘,及展现在作者眼中的它的魅力和灵魂。
Author Description

克里斯蒂安·布朗卡特(Christian Blanckaert),1996-2009年担任爱马仕集团CEO,2009年至今担任巴黎高等商务部监事会主席。他在任期间,爱马仕从一个老牌的家族企业深度转型,一跃成为竞争激烈的奢侈品行业的翘楚,不论从品牌定位还是营销策略上,都以业界标杆的姿态开启了法国奢侈品行业发展的新纪元。

Catalogue

前 言 001
真正的奢侈 007
苏西·曼奇斯 010
雷拉·曼查丽 013
巴尔巴拉·西蒙 016
还有马丁·马吉拉 ? 019
玫瑰手袋 022
奢侈品业的几位武士 026
裂 缝 040
一位品牌掌门走了。最后一个? 048
神 秘 056
南 非 059
庞 丹 063
蒙 古 067
建 筑 069
家 族 072
一对夫妇 075
爱马仕工坊,早8点 078
四女士 082
销售员玛塔 086
游荡的金钱 091
直到天边? 103
米尼亚尔小姐 108
布朗夫人 110
红灯,绿灯 112
一位警察 117
塞纳·圣·丹尼与 121
波尼·叙·默兹的就业中心 121
轮椅上的人 124
人称多班的阿马杜·萨玛塞库 126
奢侈品界的“角马” 130
美国风 135
中国,黄金国? 140
李先生 144
庞萨克 148
一位真正的王后 153
边 界 156
多功能影城 159
游牧的人 164
奢侈之……物? 169
露西娅与长笛手 175
昙花一现的王子 179
接班人? 184
真正的奢侈 190

Book Abstract

神秘
1996年,我刚到爱马仕的时候,先是在一所工坊呆了一星期,学习缝制。
我可受了罪了,腰酸背痛的。
鞍具、皮具制作的手艺学起来可不容易。
爱马仕是个世外桃源,在这里手的律法具有至高无上的地位。人们在此学到的:人手是神圣的。世上的任何机器、任何电子设备,永远都不可能在此处替代它一个针脚的动作、一个姿势的技能。
是手把爱马仕造就成一个奢侈品的品牌!但是否会是最后一家呢?
一切均靠口传心授,没有文字记载;一切均靠眼睛来学习,“伟大的传承”通过目光来代代相续。
一代又一代,眼睛跟眼睛说话,手跟手交谈。面对着动物的皮革,欣赏、思索的缄默,要远优于匆忙、解说的语言。
没什么可说的。在“皮革储藏室”中,除了看着别人进行挑选,比较,掂量,相中了或是没相中,别无其他。
每个手袋都是一个人的作品,如果说缝纫也要时常借助机器的话,那是为了品质的完善。
每个皮包都由制作者签上名字。
每个马鞍,爱马仕每年制造约四百套,都由其鞍具制作师签上名字。
制作一套鞍具要三十到四十小时,一个“凯莉”(Kelly)包要十五小时,一个“柏金”(Birkin)包要十八小时。
我花了很长时间才真正理解爱马仕所谓的品质。
在这里,没有品质负责人,不存在这么一个岗位!
品质在所有阶段都存在。从工匠到销售员,每个人都承载着这样的理念:他所完成的就是品质的一部分。品质铭刻在时间之中,从而让物品能以一种超越我们自身的完美比其主人存在得更久。品质本身可以看到,可以摸到,却不自我辩解。爱马仕证明了,其品质既是“设计者”的,也是“制作者”的。
品质与美携手同行,乃是上天恩赐的旅途伙伴;而美,则是生命的死党,感受与愉悦的供给源泉。造型完美的服装或手袋对于那些自我怀疑的人来说,难道不正是一剂良药?
品质在爱马仕始终存在,好像高悬头顶的一柄达摩克利斯之剑,而同时也是一种奖赏。客户、销售员以及工人的脸色代表着物品质量的等级。质量与尊严毗邻相近,是一种骄傲和自豪让人愿意把活儿做好、做漂亮。终究,与质量相关联的是慷慨。在质量上不能“吝啬”。对完美的寻求会增加成本、时间,以及由此带来的压力。质量是一道屏障,没人敢于去逾越它而不担着被抛弃的风险。这可能显得有点天真,但爱马仕的品质在整个公司的血管里流淌,没有人除外,也没有人需要为此负责。
……

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