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【Yami Open Course | Live Content (5)】 Reasonable Cleaning (Acne Treatment, Principles of Cleaning)

【Yami Open Class|Live Content (5)】

Lesson 2: Reasonable Cleaning (Acne Treatment, Principles of Cleaning)


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We have done these days What???

Before, we shared a lot of dry skin care products of [Yan An Tang] in the sun list

9From September 26th to September 29th, [Yan An Tang] was brought to the WeChat group of Yami Skin Care Open Class

1 hour a day The most scientific skin care basics

Full of dry goods

The editor of Yami will organize the content of the live broadcast and share it with those who are too late to listen to the live broadcast~


---The main topic is coming---

If you have acne, you can follow the previous picture Determine the stage of acne by yourself. Different states are handled differently.


If you still have acne, that is, blackheads and whiteheads, you can use certain skin care methods to get rid of the angle plugs. For example, jojoba oil, fruit Acid and salicylic acid. As mentioned earlier, jojoba oil is very similar to the wax fat in sebum, so it can easily penetrate into the hair follicle, and its permeability is better than that of ordinary oils. At the same time, the fluidity of jojoba oil is very good , it can help loosen the solid angle plug, which is more effective for open blackheads. If it is closed whiteheads, the jojoba oil is not easy to penetrate, and the effect will be less. It should be noted here that the jojoba oil The effect is a relatively slow and gentle treatment process, and it may take a few weeks to a month for the effect to appear slowly. If you want to be fast, you need the aid of tools such as acne needles or blackhead shovels. But These tools are also quite irritating to the skin, so it is not recommended for friends with sensitive skin.

 

For whiteheads, you can try fruit acid or salicylic acid, which can accelerate the metabolism of keratin. Excess keratin There are desmosomes (a common structure that connect cells between cells), and there are calcium ions on the desmosomes. The fruit acid is such asα-Hydroxy acid or salicylic acid can loosen desmosomes and make them easier to break. At the same time, these two acids can also penetrate into the horn plug oil like jojoba oil to help Looseness. Under these effects, it can remove blackheads and whiteheads.

Using fruit acid and salicylic acid is what we often call brushing acid. Another good effect of fruit acid is to "change "Skin", exfoliating the skin. This is the equivalent of throwing away your old clothes and putting on a new one that looks more polished and refreshed.< /p>

Using AHA and salicylic acid is equivalent to accelerating the metabolism of the skin. If you change clothes frequently, your skin barrier will always be In an immature state. Pushing the keratinocytes that are not fully prepared to the front line to fight, it may not have enough fighting power, then the entire skin barrier will be damaged. Frequent acid brushing will cause the skin barrier to get worse and worse, and external stimulation It can enter freely, and the skin may become sensitive in the end. So, be careful with acid brushing.

 

If the acne is already in the stage of papules or pustules, do not squeeze first. Second, you can use some antibacterial Things. After all, the bacteria have already started to enter the battlefield at this time. We can use some azelaic acid, which is a kind of azelaic acid (a kind of fruit acid). It has the effect of removing horn plugs and sterilizing.

 

And benzoyl peroxide, which we often say BPO. This thing is a double-edged sword.

Because the bacteria in acne are anaerobic bacteria, the role of benzoyl peroxide is to bring in oxygen, which is completely dependent on oxygen. It acts to drive out anaerobic bacteria. So you don't have to worry about drug resistance at all.

But benzoyl peroxide is a strong material, which can easily cause skin allergies. In addition, pay attention to strict sun protection during use, because it It's easy to darken the skin. It's not worth the gain if you get rid of acne and grow spots.

 

If there are nodules and cysts (such as squeezed pimples or some people are born with endocrine problems), it means a battlefield It has begun to spread to the dermis. At this time, it is not recommended to recruit to deal with it. It is a better choice to ask a professional doctor. Regarding medicine, I just talked about vitaminaAlcohol has a certain role in regulating oil secretion, BiweiaThe acid reaction is much milder. Vis.aAcid is a prescription drug, while vitaminaAlcohol can be used as a skin care product.

 

In addition, some people may have eaten different dimensionsa Drugs such as acid (such as adapalene). These drugs are the commander of the battlefield and will tell the anti-inflammatory factor to continue to work, and the part that inhibits sebum secretion to continue Do not run around the factors that cause redness, swelling and inflammation. It is equivalent to sorting out the entire chaotic battlefield in an orderly manner, and then slowly dealing with nodules or cysts. span>

 

The other is to directly use antibiotics to sterilize. But the problem with antibiotics is that it may lead to drug resistance, so it must be under the guidance of a doctor Use.

 

Then, what can I do if the acne breaks?< /p>

Actually, acne patches can be considered for use. Acne patches are an interesting product. Its earliest source is wound treatment. The hydrocolloid dressing for the wound. Studies have found that keeping the wound in a moist environment is very beneficial to its recovery.

0 p0

Acne patches promote wound healing and reduce scarring the residue. If it is a broken pimple, it is recommended to use an acne patch, which will help you to suck the pus out. You can't do this if the wound isn't broken. Of course, some acne patches will add salicylic acid, fruit acid or some antibacterial substances, and the effect will be different.



At this point, oil control and acne are basically finished.


Let's talk about cleaning.

When it comes to cleaning, everyone's first reaction is surfactant , basically all cleaning products will have it. The dirt on our bodies can basically be divided into two categories: hydrophilic and lipophilic. Hydrophilic dirt is relatively fine and can be washed off with water. Lipophilic things are immiscible with water, so a bridge is needed.


The picture shows a very standard surfactant, twelve Sodium Alkyl Sulfate. It can be seen that the head of sodium sulfate is a large hydrophilic head. The long tail at the back is dodecyl, the lipophilic part. If the strength of the hydrophilic head is very strong, it can pull the lipophilic part into the water. Conversely, the lipophilic part can pull water into the oil.


Surfactant surrounds the dirt, lipophilic The tail part holds the oil hand in hand, and then the hydrophilic part pulls vigorously into the water, so that the dirt is carried away. This is how surfactants work.


There are different types of surfactants and their effects are differentmutualNot the same. span>

Surfactants pull away the lipophilic dirt from the skin and also pull away our excess sebum. At the same time, normal The required sebum and lipids of the skin will also be pulled away. The strength of this ability to pull things away also represents the mildness of the surfactant to the skin. For example, soap bases have a very strong ability to remove oil, and Skin lipids can have a significant impact. If you have dry or sensitive skin, use soap-based products with caution. Oily skin is relatively suitable. p>

 

There are several common misconceptions.

The first misunderstanding, the more foam the better the cleaning ability.

In fact, there is no direct relationship between the two. For example, some people like to use sponges or bath balls for bathing. The same shower gel or soap will produce Richer foam. In fact, the surfactant concentration in it has not changed. The foam is just a result of the interaction of the surfactant and the air. As long as more air is brought into the foam water film, the foam appears to be more.

 

The second misunderstanding is that the skin feels astringent after washing it is not clean.< /span>

Soap-based products are most likely to have astringency. This is actually because soaps usually have potassium and sodium ions, and you use There are calcium and magnesium ions in tap water. When the sodium and potassium ions encounter calcium and magnesium ions, the solubility will become poor, forming a precipitate. This is how the skin feels astringent.< /p>

Some people like to use facial cleansers and shampoos containing sodium laureth sulfate, and they feel slippery after washing. Because This ingredient is more soluble than the soap base when it encounters calcium and magnesium ions, it will not settle out so you feel slippery. There is an interesting experiment, using a soap base product in deionized water, it will also feel slippery after washing. So, slippery The feeling and astringency have nothing to do with cleanliness.

 

For sensitive skin, milder surfactants should be used, that is, the surface activity of amino acids, glycosides that we often say class (APG), and betaines .

Amino acids are popular because they have a soap-like effect and feel astringent after washing, but the effect is much milder than soap bases .Glycosides are more like sodium laureth sulfate, and they feel slippery after washing. Betaines are zwitterionic surfactants, and these products are not particularly good at foaming. But we said that the foam and cleaning ability are not too good It's a big relationship, so don't be too entangled.

(To be continued...)


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【亚米公开课|直播内容(五)】 合理清洁(痤疮粉刺的处理、清洁的原理)

【亚米公开课|直播内容(五)】

第二课之 合理清洁(痤疮粉刺的处理、清洁的原理)


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这几天我们做了什么???

之前我们在晒单中分享了【言安堂】大量的护肤干货

9月26日-9月29日【言安堂】在 亚米护肤公开课 微信群中带来

每日1小时 最科学的护肤基础知识

干货满满

亚米小编将陆续整理直播的内容分享给来不及听直播的各位~


---正题来了---

如果已经出现了痘痘,大家可以根据之前的图自行判断痘痘的阶段。各种状态的处理是不一样的。


如果还是粉刺,即黑头白头的状态,可以通过一定的护肤手段把角栓弄出来。比如霍霍巴油、果酸和水杨酸。之前讲到霍霍巴油跟皮脂里的蜡脂成分很像,所以它很容易渗入到毛囊里,渗透性比一般油脂好。与此同时,霍霍巴油的流动性非常好,它能帮助松动结成固体的角栓,对开口黑头粉刺更有效。如果是闭口白头粉刺,霍霍巴油不太容易渗透,效果也就会差一点。这里需要注意的是,霍霍巴油的作用是一个相对较慢、温和的处理过程,可能坚持用几个星期到一个月,效果才慢慢能显现出来。如果想要快速,就需要粉刺针或者黑头铲之类的工具的辅助。但这些工具对皮肤刺激也是蛮大的,所以不建议敏感皮的朋友使用。

 

对于白头来说,可以试试果酸或水杨酸,它们的作用是可以加速角质的代谢。多余的角质细胞之间有桥粒(细胞之间连接的一个常见结构),桥粒上有钙离子。果酸这种α-羟基酸或者水杨酸可以让桥粒松动,更容易断裂。同时,这两种酸也可以像霍霍巴油一样渗透到角栓油脂里帮助松动。在这些作用下,便能起到除掉黑头和白头的作用。

使用果酸和水杨酸也就是我们常说的刷酸。果酸还有个很好的作用就是“换肤”,把皮肤的角质脱落掉。这就相当于扔掉旧衣服,换上一身新衣服,看上去显得更加光鲜亮丽、焕然一新。

使用果酸和水杨酸相当于加速了皮肤的代谢。如果频繁得换新衣服,你的皮肤屏障始终会处于不成熟的状态。把没有完全准备好的角质细胞推上第一线战斗,它可能战斗力不足,那么整个皮肤屏障就会受损。频繁刷酸会导致皮肤屏障越来越差,外界的刺激可以很自由得进入,最后皮肤可能就会变成敏感皮。所以,刷酸要谨慎。

 

如果痘痘已经处在丘疹或是脓包的阶段,第一千万不要挤。第二,可以用一些抗菌的东西。毕竟这时候细菌已经开始投入战场了。我们可以用一些壬二酸,也就是杜鹃花酸(果酸的一种)。它有去除角栓和杀菌的效果。

 

还有过氧苯甲酰,就是我们常说的BPO。这个东西是双刃剑。

由于痘痘里的细菌是厌氧菌,过氧苯甲酰的作用就是把氧气带进来,完全靠氧气的作用来赶走厌氧菌。所以,你完全不用担心出现耐药性。

但是过氧苯甲酰是个猛料,很容易导致皮肤过敏。此外,使用期间还要注意严格防晒,因为它容易让皮肤变黑。去掉了痘痘而长出了斑便得不偿失了。

 

如果出现了结节和囊肿(比如挤了痘痘或者有的人天生有内分泌各方面问题),那么表示战场已经开始蔓延到了真皮层。这个时候就不建议自己想招去对付了,求助于专业的医生是比较好的选择。关于药物,刚才说到维a醇是有一定调节油脂分泌的作用,比维a酸反应温和很多。维a酸是处方药,而维a醇是可以作护肤品使用。

 

此外,有的人可能吃过异维a酸之类的药物(比如阿达帕林)。这类药物是战场的指挥,会告诉消炎因子继续作用,抑制皮脂分泌的部分继续作用,导致红肿炎症反应的因子不要到处乱跑。相当于把整个混乱的战场梳理得井井有条,然后再慢慢得来对付结节或是囊肿。

 

再一个就是直接用抗生素杀菌。但抗生素的问题在于可能会导致耐药性,所以一定要在医生的指导下使用。

 

然后,痘痘破了可以做什么处理呢?

其实痘痘贴是可以考虑使用的。痘痘贴是一个蛮有意思的产品。它最早的来源是借鉴伤口处理的水胶体敷料。研究发现,让伤口处在湿润的环境,对其恢复是非常有利的。

痘痘贴能促进伤口的愈合,也会减少疤痕的残留。如果是破了的痘痘,建议可以用痘痘贴,它会帮助你把脓吸出来。如果伤口没破,是做不到这一点的。当然,有些痘痘贴里会加入水杨酸、果酸或是一些抗菌物质,那效果会不一样。



至此,控油和痘痘这块基本上讲完了。


下面来讲一讲清洁的问题。

提到清洁,大家的第一反应是表面活性剂,基本上所有清洁产品都会有。我们身体上的脏东西基本可以分为两类:亲水性和亲油性。亲水性的脏东西相对没什么问题,用水就能洗去。亲油性的东西与水不互溶,这时候就需要有个搭桥的东西。


图中是一个非常标准的表面活性剂,十二烷基硫酸钠。可以看出,硫酸钠这头是一个大大的亲水头。后面长长的尾巴是十二烷基,亲油的部分。如果亲水头的力气非常大,就可以把亲油的部分拉到水里。相反则亲油的部分可以把水拉到油里去。


表面活性剂把脏东西团团围住,亲油的尾巴部分与油手拉手,然后亲水的部分大力往水里拉,这样脏东西就被带走了。这就是表面活性剂作用的原理。


表面活性剂有不同的种类,作用也不相同。

表面活性剂会拉走皮肤上亲油性的脏东西,也会拉走我们多余的皮脂。与此同时,正常需要的皮脂以及皮肤的脂质也会被拉走。这个拉走东西能力的强弱,也就代表了表面活性剂对皮肤的温和程度。比如皂基,它洗脱油脂的能力非常强,对皮肤脂质的影响会很大。如果是干性皮肤或敏感皮,使用皂基产品就要小心。油皮则相对比较适合使用。

 

还有几个常见的误区。

第一个误区,泡沫越多清洁能力越强。

其实两者没有直接关系。比如有的人洗澡喜欢用海绵或浴球。同样的沐浴露或肥皂就会产生更丰富的泡沫。其实,其中的表面活性剂浓度并没有变。泡沫只是表面活性剂和空气作用的一个结果。只要在泡沫水膜里带入更多的空气,泡沫就显得多。

 

第二个误区,皮肤清洗后有涩感才算洗干净。

用皂基产品最容易有涩感。这其实是因为皂基通常有钾离子和钠离子,而你使用的自来水里有钙镁离子。钠钾离子碰到钙镁离子溶解性就会变差,形成沉淀。皮肤的涩感就是这么来的。

有的人喜欢用含月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠的洗面奶和洗发水,洗完会觉得很滑。因为这个成分比皂基遇到钙镁离子的溶解度要好,不会沉淀下来所以你感觉滑。有个有趣的实验,在去离子水下使用皂基产品,清洗后也会有滑感。所以,滑感和涩感与清洁是否干净没有关系。

 

对于敏感皮来说,要采用更温和的表面活性剂,也就是我们常说的氨基酸类的表活、糖苷类(APG)的表活,以及甜菜碱类的表活。

氨基酸类受欢迎是因为它有类似皂基的作用,洗完有涩感,但作用却比皂基温和很多。糖苷类则更像月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠的作用,洗完有滑感。甜菜碱类属于两性离子表活,这类产品发泡不是特别好。但我们说过泡沫和清洁能力没有太大关系,所以也不用过于纠结。

(未完待续...)


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