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Lesson 2: Reasonable Cleaning (Differentiation of Cleaning Products)

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“We have done these days What???”

Before, we shared a lot of dry skin care products of [Yan An Tang] in the sun list

9From September 26th to September 29th, [Yan An Tang] was brought to the WeChat group of Yami Skin Care Open Class

1 hour a day The most scientific skin care basics

Full of dry goods

The editor of Yami will organize the content of the live broadcast and share it with those who are too late to listen to the live broadcast~

---The main topic is coming---

Let's talk about how to distinguish soap or amino acid products. span>

This picture is actually hand-painted by Uncle Sanmu, depicting the process of saponification. Soap-based facial cleanser should be the earliest one in history. A kind of cleaning agent. It is very simple to make, which is to directly add alkali (such as sodium hydroxide, plant ash) from natural oils (animal or vegetable oils).< /p>

We can see that oil is usually a triglyceride structure, with three fatty acids dragged on a glycerol molecule. If you encounter an alkali , the structure will be disassembled. The glycerin molecule will come out alone, and the fatty acid will become sodium fatty acid with sodium ion acid-base neutralization. The sodium ion end becomes the clear water end, and the fatty acid end is still the lipophilic end. , which is the structure of a surfactant.

Fatty acid is a representative of a large class. According to the number of carbon ions, there are lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, etc. Lauric acid Sodium oleate, such as sodium and sodium myristate, is the soap base.

We can look at a few examples.

The facial cleanser shown above is a very famous facial cleanser. span>

You can see that its formula ingredient list contains stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and potassium hydroxide. At times, these ingredients will react to potassium stearate, potassium myristate, potassium laurate, etc. Therefore, this facial cleanser is an obvious soap-based product.

This Rukitine facial cleanser has potassium myristate, potassium stearate and potassium laurate in the ingredient list. It directly It is also a soap-based product using the raw materials that react well. By the way, some oil-control cleansing masks and facial cleansers use a lot of clay and the like. These soils will build small houses on the skin. structure so that it has a lot of space to hold a lot of grease and clean it better.

The picture above is an Australian goat milk soap, which contains sodium palmate, sodium cocoate and sodium palm kernelate. As we mentioned last time, palm oil and coconut oil are also triglycerides. The fatty acids they carry are also composed of lauric acid and myristic acid. Therefore, goat milk soap is also a soap-based product.

Lauric acid and myristic acid are the soap bases with the best foaming and cleaning ability. Usually people make soap base products. Either directly add lauric acid and myristic acid, or add coconut oil and palm oil (high content of lauric acid and myristic acid), such products will foam better.< /span>

Many handmade soaps use other oils, such as olive oil, which sounds betterfancy. These soaps may be milder than normal soaps due to the relatively high content of lauric and myristic acids. Low. But these products are still soap-based products.

As for the addition of goat milk to goat milk soap (mainly protein in milk), everyone who has studied high school chemistry knows that protein is in soap The base will be denatured under alkaline conditions. So adding milk is just a gimmick and has no special effect.

Sulwhasoo's palace honey soap is also a soap-based product. As mentioned earlier, coconut oil has high lauric acid content, which can irritate skin pores. Don't worry here, because the lauric acid in the ingredients has been reacted to sodium laurate, which has become a surface activity.

As for milder facial cleansers, such as amino acid ones. This one in the picture is Clinique Facial Cleansing Liquid Soap, which is known as mild and clean. It The mildness is good, but not that mild.

Ingredient amounts are generally ordered from highest to lowest in the ingredient list. The second in this product is laureth Sodium sulfate is a fairly decent surface activity. Although it is not as irritating as soap base, it is not as mild as amino acids and glycosides.

Although this product also contains amino acid-based active ingredients (xxAcylxxSodium amide), but the ranking is relatively low and the content is low. We mainly focus on what is the most important surface activity in the product.

This pictureMAGIE LAB< span style="font-size: 12px;">It is a mild amino acid facial cleanser. You can see that the second and fourth places are all amino acids. p>

This is also a milder facial cleanser. The top ingredients are glycerin, maltitol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and 150, they are all humectants (that is, small molecules that can hold water). In addition, the surface activities in the product are all amino acids. and betaines.

ThisSK-II's facial cleanser, the second in the ingredient list is sodium glutamate laurate, which shows that it is also an amino acid facial cleanser. p>

Paula's Source of the Earth (nicknamed Green Snot) is a very mild face wash. It uses glycosides Epiactive (decyl glucoside).

These examples are also to help you identify and find the cleansing products that suit you. When you have some corresponding knowledge, you can Avoid many detours.

Surfactants always affect the skin's barrier function, so proper cleaning is important. Reasonable cleaning here includes choosing the right one Cleansing products. At the same time, be careful not to repeatedly cleanse, do not pursue a slippery and astringent feeling. In addition, do not often rub or exfoliate with physical things. If you have not done a good job in moisturizing for a period of time, the stratum corneum becomes thick. Accumulation, so that you can do an exfoliation. However, exfoliating every day may cause the skin to eventually become sensitive skin, so it is not recommended. The same is true for brushing acid.< /span>

So, clean in moderation.

There is also about makeup remover and sunscreen. Friends who use makeup need to use makeup remover products. If it is sunscreen, there is no need to use it. (Try to avoid secondary cleaning).

(To be continued...)

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