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Jingdong book

窥视印度

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窥视印度

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有时候,你与世界,只差一场旅行。
加尔各答、德里、孟买、马德拉巴、迈索尔宫、耆那神庙……作者将带你走进这一神秘的邻近古国印度。除了文字叙述,作者在书中还画有多幅素描,清楚地描绘了当地的风情。推荐给想去印度暂时没条件去的人,可以解馋。
印度人信仰的宗教种类繁多。印度的宗教不像日本的那么便宜行事——婚礼在基督教会举行,年初开春到神社参拜,葬礼则采佛教仪式……在印度,人们恪遵各自的宗教信仰,谨守戒律地生活。当然,在辽阔的印度,每个地区的历史和文化也各有不同。面对这样一个国家,仅是一介过客的旅人当然无法了解全貌。问印度人有关印度的事情——即使是同一件事,也常得到各式各样的答案;所以会让人搞不清楚何为真。其实,这并不代表他们的回答不正确,每个答案都是真实的。答案的差异乃源于每个人的生活环境、所在地区,或是宗教观各不相同。
Content Description

印度,这个古老的国度,充斥着太多的神秘,也与我们华夏民族有着千丝万屡的联系——有着几千年的政治、经济、文化、宗教等方面的交往。与我们一样,印度有屈辱的近代,在风风雨雨中走到了今天。而她的民族风情、宗教文化、经济政治等等到底是一个什么样子呢?
日本著名舞台设计家妹尾河童情趣盎然的印度游记。在游走印度的途中,他以别样的好奇、韧性和深究底里的脾性边走边看边绘,展现一个另类日本人眼中的印度建筑、宗教、历史和文化。其独特细致的文字和绘画让你身临其境。
Author Description

妹尾河童,日本当代具代表性的舞台设计家,1930年生于神户,1954年因舞台设计而崭露头角,此后活跃于戏剧、歌剧、芭蕾舞、音乐剧、电视等青海艺术领域,曾获“纪伊国屋演剧”、“山多利音乐”、“艺术祭优秀”、“兵库县文化”等众多奖项。
Catalogue

加尔各答
圣河
圣牛
性的欢愉——卡朱拉侯的神库
“世界最美丽的陵墓”
泰姬玛哈陵快车
首都德里
种姓制度
再访德里
孟买
巨石环绕的城镇——海德拉巴
南印度最大的城市——马德拉斯
神庙之城——“甘吉普拉姆”与“马哈巴里普拉姆”
在“马杜拉”鸟瞰
铁道之旅
印度大陆的最南端
在科钦吃鱼·观舞
始于一八九七年的藩王宫——迈索尔宫
烈日下的耆那神庙
发现于一八一九年的印度奇迹
湖上王宫饭店
粉红城市斋蒲尔
飘雪的斯利那加
后记
索引
参考书目
Book Abstract

圣河
英文里的恒河是“Ganges”;在印度则称为“Ganga”。
这是一条不同于其他、拥有“神圣性”的河流。
此河以印度教徒在其中沐浴祈祷闻名。在信徒中心,这是条“清净的圣河”;但事实上,河水却相当混浊。
在一般人的观念里,通常“圣河=清流”;不过即使现实中它是条“浊流”,依旧不会伤及恒河的神圣性。
“恒河为什么是‘圣河’呢?”
“因为这河水是印度教徒最崇拜的湿婆神头发上的水滴滴落脚边后,汇流而成的。”
加尔各答的时母女神庙中有个沐浴场,颇负盛名。流经这里的是荷格里河,并非恒河。不过因为它是恒河的支流,所以该河的河水也是“圣水”。
既然连恒河的支流都是如此,恒河本身就更是无一处不灵验的啰。不过其中有一处圣地最受信徒尊崇,那就是“瓦拉那西”(在英语中称为“贝拿靳斯”)。
瓦拉那西的历史入远,大概可追溯到公元前。恒河中游地区在公元前八百年左右兴起了许多小国;以“教义”形式传承下来的“瓦拉那西圣典”也是在这个地区汇聚成形的。自那时候起,瓦拉那西就以宗教中心的身份繁盛至今,而且从未衰退过;此地能够保有三千年的历史,真可说是世上罕有的都市。
不过,“古老是一回事,它又为什么会成为圣地呢?”当我再进一步问这问题时,当地人露出了相当惊讶的表情,“从以前就是圣地了呀!”他们的心里大概很狐疑怎么有人会部这种蠢问题。
“无论如何,死前一定要去一趟瓦拉那西”或“死要死在瓦拉那西”是印度教徒的最大心愿,因此“瓦拉那西”真的涵义深重,毫无疑问是处圣地。
对我来说,要理解其宗教价值观,实在有些困难;不过为了瞧瞧“在圣河里沐浴的景观”,说什么我也要去一趟瓦拉那西。
……
天还没亮,观光巴士就已经在饭店的中庭里等着了。这辆巴士被一个意大利旅行团包下来,我是突如其来加入他们的不速之客。凭着我那几句破意大利文就赢得了好感,免费让我当他们的座上客。
巴士在蒙蒙亮的街道中穿梭,驶向乘船处。一下车,等着的成群乞丐便拥了上来,直喊:“大爷,赏一卢比吧!”然后将我们一行人给团团围住。有的人伸出来的手因为麻风病而少了指头,也有小孩拖着没有双腿的身子在地上爬,追着我们不放。
比起前几天一个人在街上晃荡时聚集了更多人。因为我们是一群观光客。
每当接触到他们的眼神、伸出来的手,听到他们哭诉的声音,就让人觉得自己好像是个加害者似的,狼狈至极;而且觉得自己多少跟加害者有关的想法总是挥之不去。
搭上小船驶离岸边,从水面上恒河看起来更加宽广。对岸的地平线开始闪闪发亮,太阳即将升起。
有的人是将身子浸入恒河中,恭敬地掬起河水,然后将水从头顶淋下来;有的人则是整个潜入水里;有的人还会以河水漱口、清洗耳朵。每个人都虔诚地面对旭日祈祷。女人身上裹着纱丽,男人则几近全裸。其中有些显然是风尘仆仆自南部上来;从他们身上橘色、绿色、黄色等原色的纱丽即可判知。所有人对“沐浴”——尤其是到瓦拉那西——十分重视;因为他们坚信恒河之水可以洗去现世的罪孽,来世会过得更加安乐。
对于印度教我并不是非常了解,只晓得其教义中的“业”和“轮回”之说,也就是“现世并非人生的全部,而只是前世、现世、来世之间的连结而已。现在的自己是前世所累积的业的结果,而来世则取决于今生。”因此,贫困和苦痛也可借由“来世愿望”转换掉;“沐浴”可说是往来世的通行护照。那些知道自己死期已近的人,之所以想在瓦拉那西往生,就是因为这里最接近来世。据说他们最大的期望是将自己火化后的骨灰撒在恒河上。
……

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