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Jingdong book

青梅香椿韭菜花下午茶

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青梅香椿韭菜花下午茶

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家厨与食府,味道的厚薄,人情的冷暖,行云流水,乐在其间。书中所收录的文章,或谈吃,或记奇人,或忆往事;有南北的美食,有茶意的江湖,有风味里的故乡,好吃好看好玩,随性洒脱,展现了一个老顽童一般的王祥夫。

Author Description

王祥夫,著有长篇小说《榴莲榴莲》等七部,中短篇小说集《愤怒的苹果》等八部,散文集《何时与先生一起看山》等九部。曾获中国第三届“鲁迅文学奖”“《小说月报》百花奖”“《上海文学》短篇小说奖”“滇池文学奖”“赵树理文学奖”等,作品屡登“中国小说排行榜”。为《光明日报》《北京晚报》《文艺报》《羊城晚报》专栏作家。现为山西省作家协会副主席,大同市作家协会主席,云冈画院院长。
Comments

祥夫先生喜聚喜热闹,只要来京必呼朋引伴,忙不迭地给我们这些久居北京的人安排好的馆子好的菜肴,相当一些饭馆确实连我这吃货都不知道。他好喝酒,因血压不稳每次都说少喝不喝,可席间每每聊到酣畅之处,就豪迈大叫“上酒来”,谁也拦不住。酒量大,酒过三巡兴味正浓时,常脸红脖子粗地站起来唱几段北方小曲助兴。
——作家颜慧

王老师喜欢腊肉、风鸡、还有湖南馆子里的风鱼。王老师喜欢去花店,好像是,他比较喜欢百合,粉百合和白百合,还有那种花型比较小的金百合,要不就是花型号很小的雏菊。王老师客厅里那只北魏的大陶罐里总插着一枝很大的树枝,枝型真是好看。一如王老师笔下的线条。
——自由撰稿人夏丽

想起王祥夫,远方映出他圆镜片后胆怯的双眼;在杏树或者胡麻开花的季节,他可能去了乡下;书案前的水盂已经干涸,去岁插入瓶中的白树枝也已蒙上灰尘;我和他坐在风陵渡口的小摊旁边吃饭、吃茴香饼和一只鸡蛋,在风中,黄河稠厚的水波看不出一点白浪,唯有寒森森的晓梦在徘徊。
——作家金宇澄
Catalogue

以字下酒
2 阳台农民
6 玻璃屋
9 书三事
14 闲话瓜子
17 青梅
20 荔枝来
25 以字下酒
30 南北油茶
33 腊猎脸
38 香椿
41 吃豆腐
46 韭菜花
49 干菜的滋味
54 炉边的烧饼
57 阁楼
62 关于蛤蟆
65 吃花生
70 过去的药丸
73 酒瓶漫录
78 咸菜慈姑汤
81 旧事二则
84 旧事二则补记
彼时采桑
88 猪头肉与小菜
91 棉被
96 沙棘考
99 又名土狗
102 岁尾花事记
107 山子
112 关于螺蛳
115 友梅
119 农历之外
124 彼时采桑
127 俗名甩子
132 是日饮屠苏
134 春节记
137 富贵衣
142 关于高士
147 另一种梅
150 菖蒲
152 砚田
157 馒头
162 梧桐
165 记吴湖帆
170 鄙人爱酱
173 说酒
青莲
180 墨香如仪
183 竹器
188 纸上的梅
191 民国范儿
196 也说胡兰成
202 青莲
205 丁香
209 六道木
何处落屐痕
214 后园
219 雁门关
222 井冈山漫记
225 访随园
230 菏泽印象
233 秦淮河
237 燕子矶小记
240 赤璧
245 鹿野苑
250 琴棋台小记
253 富春山小记
255 乐山小记
258 壶口瀑布记
Book Abstract

闲话瓜子
我不喜欢嗑瓜子,客人来家也从不准备瓜子。一般待客只用茶水和水果,苹果或橘子。我那年冬天下乡,独自一个人睡一铺大炕。房东动辄会给我炒葵花子和倭瓜子,在锅里“哗啦哗啦”炒熟端上来,来找我说话的人都坐在炕沿上,一人手里握一把,一边嗑一边说话。客人走了,地上的瓜子皮一扫就是一簸箕,房东把瓜子皮倒在炉子里,炉火会好一阵子“轰轰轰轰,轰轰轰轰、”,房东问我怎么不嗑瓜子,我说我不喜欢,房东看我好一会儿,说干坐着,嘴里又没个东西,不好受吧?你又不抽烟。我说我不抽烟、不嗑瓜子但我会喝茶!
鲁迅先生是爱嗑瓜子的,肖红在她的回忆文章里说鲁迅先生总是和客人一边说话一边嗑瓜子,瓜子放在一个铁皮饼干盒子里,嗑完了这一碟,鲁迅先生会要求许广平再给来一碟。鲁迅先生的胞弟周作人说他小时候玩过用三四片瓜子互相夹在一起做出的小鸡。我小时候没玩过这种东西,也从来都不会在口袋里放些瓜子一边走一边嗑。但我经常会在院子门口见到一两个女人站在那里一边嗑瓜子一边说话,这让我想起《金瓶梅》里的潘金莲,兰陵笑笑生不愧是细节大师,《金瓶梅》一书中光嗑瓜子就写有好几处,一处是月娘带众女眷看放烟火,潘金莲在楼上把半个身子都探出去,一边嗑瓜子一边说说笑笑,并且把瓜子皮扬到楼下去,惹得下边的人两眼不住地只是看她们。另一处描写是潘金莲站在门口东张西望嗑瓜子卖俏,卖给谁看,记不大清了。读《金瓶梅》的时候,我常想,古今中外的长篇小说里写到嗑瓜子这一小细节的还有哪几部?一时还真让人想不起来。《金瓶梅》中不单单写潘金莲嗑瓜子,还写到蕙莲买瓜子,蕙莲有了银子,烧包得不行,总爱打发小厮到门外去买瓜子,一买就买许多,和下人们一起嗑。嗑不到瓜子的人还大有意见,咕嘟着嘴,不愿扫那个地。
我的一个朋友是电影导演,有一次我们赶去“老杨魁”吃白水羊头,他说他正在拍一部延安时期的片子,这几天拍到毛泽东和外国友人谈话的场面,“怎么拍都有点干巴!”我这个朋友喜欢用“干巴”这两个字。菜炒不好,他会说“有点干巴”,澡洗得不合适他也会说:“身上怎么还有点干巴!”看小说,如他不满意,也会说:“这是怎么写的,怎么有点儿干巴。”和女朋友在一起,若有不如意,也会说“干巴”。他说毛泽东和外国友人谈话这场戏有点儿干巴。我忽然就想起瓜子来了,我说那怎么不让他们一边嗑瓜子一边说话?后来在片子里果然出现了瓜子,场面顿时不干巴了,活泛了也好看了,是延安时期的生活,毛泽东穿着灰色的胖棉袄,让人看着就亲切。
往昔过年,家里总是要买瓜子,算是年货之一,而且是大宗。平时家里可以不给客人瓜子,但过年就不能这样,不给客人端瓜子好像简直就不是过年。我的母亲节俭一辈子,平时吃倭瓜挖出的瓜子不用说都会晾在外边的窗台上,有时候连西瓜子也晾,那时候吃倭瓜多一些,尤其是一到深秋,要买许多倭瓜回来,倭瓜多,瓜子就多,母亲会把晾干的瓜子收起来,到了年底汇总炒一回,倭瓜子不像葵花子那么碎叨,最碎碎叨叨的是那种黑色的小葵花子,又小又不好嗑,嗑完这种瓜子,两片嘴唇一派乌黑。这种黑瓜子不好嗑,但它开花却好看,花盘子上满是茸茸的花瓣,和凡·高画的那种不大一样。葵花的学名是“向日葵”,但现在的葵花被化肥弄得不会向日了,一时找不到方向了。
网络画家有画葵花子的,画出来,居然大有水墨的味道,当代艺术真是奇巧百出,什么都可以画,也敢画,白石老人是从不画瓜子的,画瓜子有什么意思?是没什么意思。
我不喜欢嗑瓜子,但这不妨碍我喜欢向日葵。向日葵是什么时候传入中国的?查查与植物有关的书籍,最早见于明代王象晋所著的《群芳谱》。王象晋的《群芳谱》于1621年问世,《金瓶梅》的出版依吴晗先生的说法应该在万历中期,如以万历二十四年(1596)算,要早于《群芳谱》二十多年,相信其时向日葵在民间已早有种植。民间把向日葵又叫作“向阳花”或“朝阳花”。如有院子,沿院墙种那么一圈儿,还真是好看,可惜我们现在都没有院子,阳台上又没法儿种。
青梅
梅和杏不是一回事,青梅可以泡酒,而且是古已有之,如炮制成中药,就是乌梅,没事含一粒在嘴里,止渴生津。杏子和梅子差不多。但一旦黄熟,杏却要比梅子大许多,吾乡阳高一带出好杏,品种亦多,但最好吃的是外皮青绿、杏肉红黄的那种,是上品,不易得。梅子和杏子之间的区别以范万大的一句诗似乎可以说明:“梅子金黄杏子肥。”大致如此。说到青梅,日本人好像离不开此物,饭团子上总是放一个盐渍青梅。
说到青梅酒,一般度数都不会高,酒席上的轰饮斗勇宜烈性酒,而泡青梅酒最宜绍兴酒或日本清酒,度数低一些方显其温良。那一年在新昌山间喝立波夫人做的杨梅酒,度数亦不高,山间风清,酒味醇正,让人至今不能忘记其味。在国外,常见梨酒,每只酒瓶里都有一只很大的梨子,梨子是慢慢在玻璃瓶里长大的,这样的梨子与别的梨子有不同的风霜雨露,因为酒瓶里有梨,所以喝的时候总觉得像是有那么一点点梨子的味道,其实未必。穆涛说他的父亲总是在黄瓜刚刚开始生长的时候就用酒瓶子套好,待其长大后用以泡酒,滋味想来也不恶。薄荷也可以用来泡酒,新鲜的薄荷叶子,直接泡在酒杯里就可以。我家的南边露台上种了许多盆薄荷,吃面条儿,喝薄荷茶,有时候朋友来了喝酒,现在的酒度数都不会太高,大玻璃杯,倒半杯,再把薄荷叶子放进去,过一会儿再喝,挺好,如果放半年一载,颜色转黄,会更好。
以青梅煮酒由来已久,《三国演义》第二十一回,曹操与刘备在一起谈论天下大事时喝的就是“青梅煮酒”。曹操是个懂酒的人,“何以解忧,唯有杜康”。只可惜他替“杜康酒”白做了这么多年的宣传,至今杜康酒也没有声名鹊起。昔年读《曹操集》,里边所载《奏上九酒法》一文,讲的就是怎样造酒。曹操是个做事很认真的人,《曹操集》里有很多“表”与“疏”,都是讲极琐细的事,分香织履,各种器物都细细条分缕析。通过这篇奏文,可以想象曹操也是“饮酒党”,所以对造酒才会格外留意。奏文如下:
“臣县故吏郭芝,有九春酒,法用面三十斤,流水五石,腊月二日清麹,正月冻解,用好稻米,漉去麹渣,便酿法饮,曰辟诸虫,虽久多完,三日一酿,满九斛米止,臣得法酿之,常善,其上清渣亦可饮,若以九醖苦难饮,增为十酿,差甘易饮,不病,今谨上献。”
现在市面上的梅子酒度数都很低,在八九度,微微有些甜,像是果子露。但真正的果子露现在却已绝了迹。果子露也算是一种酒,度数仅在三四度。买一条三四指宽的五花肉,先放锅里干煸,煸到四面发黄,再用两瓶果子露慢慢煨煮,火要极小,煨两三个钟头,味道很好。做青梅酒,如若急着想喝,有一种“急就”的方法,就是把青梅洗净遂个敲裂,然后泡在酒里,几天后就可以到嘴,酒色偏绿,但味道不那么醇厚。梅子酒是越放越好喝。做梅子酒也可以不加冰糖,但上口苦涩,别是一种风味,苦寒之味亦可以算是一种风味。一如赴台终老的台静农先生说过的那种“苦老酒”,但泡几天就喝的青梅酒味道是既不“焦苦”,其酒色也不黑。
在博客上看“二月书房”在做梅子酒,用的像是高度的二锅头,做了像是有几小缸吧,到了年底,应该冲风冒雪地赶去喝几杯,度数高的梅子酒以前还没有喝过,也不知加了冰糖没有。说实在的,味道稍苦的酒也挺好喝。
……

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Sellers in China will ship their orders within 1-2 business days once the order is placed. Packages are sent to our consolidation warehouse in China and combined there. Our Yami consolidation warehouse will directly ship the packages to you via UPS. The average time for UPS to ship from China to the United States is about 10 working days and it can be traced using the tracking number. Due to the pandemic, the delivery time may be delayed by about 5 days. The package needs to be signed by the guest. If the receipt is not signed, the customer shall bear the risk of loss of the package.

Sold by JD@CHINA

Service Guarantee

Free shipping over 69
Genuine guarantee

Shipping

Yami Consolidated Shipping $9.99(Free shipping over $69)


Seller will ship the orders within 1-2 business days. The logistics time limit is expected to be 7-15 working days. In case of customs clearance, the delivery time will be extended by 3-7 days. The final receipt date is subject to the information of the postal company.

Yami Points information

All items are excluding from any promotion or points events on Yamibuy.com

Return Policy

You may return product within 30 days upon receiving the product. Items returned must be new in it's original packing, including the original invoice for the purchase. Customer return product at their own expense.

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About the brand

Jingdong book

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About the brand

Jingdong book