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Yami

Jingdong book

时光,一场不散的筵席

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时光,一场不散的筵席

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▲美食达人“家猫甲”首次出书,讲述生命里那些值得珍藏的瞬间以及29道忘不了的人间美味,激醒我们的味蕾,带我们找回幸福的时光。
▲书中文字温暖而治愈,宁远等知名作家倾力推荐。
▲随书赠送8道料理的美味秘诀。

Content Description

食物并不仅仅是用来果腹,更是用来传递心意的上好选择。烹饪的人用心、品尝的人用心,才能体会到极美的美味,多年后依然能回味起这道菜的色香味所带来的触动——邂逅与离别、共同的经历、未来的期许、感受到的所有美好……
作者用温暖治愈的文字,记录了生命里一个个美好的瞬间,以及那些难忘的味道。

Author Description

家猫甲,本名覃鑫,“冰冰购”联合创始人。毕业于北京大学经济学院,饲有一夫二猫。秉持完美主义的金牛座,坚信“生命在于折腾”,喜欢做各种“跨界”的事情。曾活跃于出版圈,2012年投身移动互联网浪潮,任职于腾讯。一半生活狂,一半工作狂,跟人合作过线上甜品店,现在正和朋友一起折腾跨境电商的创业。
喜欢世间一切美好与新奇的事物,到过很多地方,吃过很多美食,也喜欢亲自下厨。坚信美味、有诚意、高礼遇的料理只能诞生于自家厨房。未必昂贵,也未必稀有,却是完美的心意传达。“但求赋予美食以灵魂,我做饭给你,为了我们岁月里彼此的相遇、相伴、相随与相慰。”
Comments

我不能做菜给所有人,但是我希望读到这本书的人,能感受到生活可以更美好,懂得享用美味的人,永远都不会孤单。
——家猫甲

无论是大餐还是小吃,在这些美味佳肴里,我们追寻的不仅仅是味觉的体验,还有许多美好的回忆:母亲的关切、爱情的甜蜜、离散的遗憾、异乡的漂泊……当我们亲手做出这些料理时,会获得一种深切的满足,更感觉此时此刻、每分每秒值得珍惜,并且对未来充满希望。
人生路很远,为自己、为我们爱的人做好一餐饭,用美丽的姿态去追寻自己所爱的生活。
——《把时间浪费在美好的事物上》作者宁远推荐
Catalogue

◆ 糯米肉粽 2
除夕夜里的温情守候
◆ 红酒炖牛肉 12
Bon Appétit! 没有勃艮第也开心
◆ 清蒸鲈鱼 24
对一条鱼的最高礼遇
◆ 自制卤肉饭 32
走,吃到台北去
◆ 玉子烧和红章鱼 42
不做最熟悉的陌生人
◆ 鸡蛋焗土司 54
不孤独的一人食
◆ 意大利肉酱面 64
厨房经济学

◆ 台中太阳饼 74
酥皮渣子麦芽香
◆ 意大利千层面 82
旅行,一场未知的邂逅
◆ 蜜烤三文鱼 94
唯有美食与爱不可辜负
◆ 虾皮糊塌子 100
谁说黑暗料理不美味
◆ 蛋烘糕 106
有一种味道,仅关乎记忆
◆ 腊肠煲仔饭 116
此物最乡思
◆ 小米南瓜粥 124
父亲节的一碗暖粥
◆ 萝卜炖牛腩 136
情浓的守候
◆ 米粉 144
一碗好粉的 N 种情结
◆ 泡菜牛肉饭 154
开胃之夏
◆ 啤酒鸭 162
中元节的鬼情与乡愁
◆ 白灼与红焖 168
入了秋的虾
◆ 冰淇淋月饼 180
不能分食的中秋
◆ 栗子鸡 188
立冬,听段《报菜名》

◆ 脆底煎饺 196
冬夜亦暖心
◆ 快手三明治 204
不期而遇的爱情
◆ 海鲜砂锅粥 212
淡而有味之情
◆ 松露巧克力 220
苦涩的爱情
◆ 黑森林蛋糕 230
曾能获得的最美好
◆ 双层烤肉堡 238
最后一口的幸福
◆ 铜锣烧 246
同行与告别
Book Abstract

除夕夜里的
温情守候
2015年是我在北京生活的第十一个年头,也是全家第一次在北京团圆。一个月前,妈妈早早打来电话问我想吃些什么,给我做好带来。腊肠自不用说,可我最馋的还是那一口粽子。
“橘生淮南则为橘,橘生淮北则为枳。”我们南方人称为“糯米”的东西种在北方便是“江米”。广西的少数民族大多都有一种“糯米情结”,糯米不仅口感软糯,而且比米饭顶饱,最适合需要翻山越岭、打猎耕种的老百姓。虽然常居城市的我们不用劳作,却也继承了这份钟情。二十年前的南宁街头,晨光熹微之时就会有许多推着小车的小贩,星罗棋布地出现在各个路口。车上一口大蒸锅在炭火的炙烤下冒着热气,扑腾的锅盖遮掩不住扑鼻的清香,满满一锅加了盐、油、水蒸熟的糯米饭,粒粒饱满、油亮剔透。曙光渐起,行人渐渐多了起来,背着书包上学的,疾步追赶公交上班的,骑着脚踏车穿行而过的,都被那诱人的米香勾了魂。糯米饭五毛钱一小份,一块钱一大份,加根腊肠再多五毛钱。“老板,我要五毛钱的”“给我来一块钱的,加根腊肠”“老板快点了,上学要迟到了”……三五个人捏着毛票围在推车周围。只见小贩盛出满满一小碗糯米饭,饭勺轻轻一压,再盛出一勺煮得烂熟的绿豆泥抹在饭上,把碗倒扣进一个透明塑料袋里,一小团紧实温热的糯米饭团便递到了你的手里。若是冬天,这就成了上学路上最暖心的火炉。
“好吃不过饺子”换到我家便是“待客不过粽子”,端午包粽子,过年还是包粽子,就连上门拜年,也要带几个亲手包的大粽子互相送。自从嫁了人,回家次数就少了,跟着Paul除夕夜里包饺子,想起公司端午节发的粽子还冻在冰箱里,用水煮了以解相思。婴孩拳头般大小的三角粽,一两糯米藏着一小块豆沙或蜜饯,一口一个——这粽子啊,比咱家的差远了。我摇摇头,吞下的不是粽子,而是酵母,将我的思乡之情积聚发酵,从双眼沁出。
盼了两周,父母来了。在北京的第十一年,父亲还是第一次来看我,也是我们在北京的第一次团圆。接站时好几个大箱子捆在一个手推车上,左右手还分别提着一个。回到家中挨个拆开,一箱腊肠和酿豆腐,一箱螺蛳粉和炸好的腐竹,还有一箱捆得结结实实的粽叶、稻草绳子、栗仁和绿豆。
住在矿山小镇的外公外婆,每年都去山里寻几棵老竹,采下最大的叶子,每片都有10—15厘米宽、40厘米长,装在背篓里带回家中洗刷干净,一张张铺开晾晒,再连同晒干的稻杆一起托人带给妈妈,这便是上好的粽叶和稻绳。干竹叶要提前浸泡一夜,第二天再用刷子反复刷洗,最后一张一张用布仔细擦干。从矿山到柳州,再从柳州到北京,24小时,2250公里。
大多数地方的粽子都只有一种馅,或豆沙、或蜜饯、或火腿蛋黄,相比之下我们的粽子简直是满汉全席,栗仁、绿豆、五花肉,都是平常最馋的好东西。栗子在夏天晒干存好,要用时再一个一个敲开,取出栗仁浸泡一夜。五花肉要买肥瘦各半的,切成一指长的厚片,撒上黑芝麻粉,用料酒、五香粉、盐腌制一夜。绿豆要买去了皮的,吃起来才不会硌着牙。而主角糯米,则要提前用开水泡上半个小时,洗干净沥干水,拌上盐、油和小苏打,所有的准备工作这才算完了。
包粽子是个细致活儿,三张竹叶平铺在掌心,一大勺糯米铺在叶子上,撒上少许栗子和绿豆,摆上两条五花肉,再补上些栗子和绿豆,最后盖上一层糯米堆成一座五六厘米高的小山。我总是围在母亲的身边,看着她利落地用拇指将叶子一折一叠,再拽出三根稻草绳子麻利地将手中之物五花大绑,包出一个重约半斤、长约十厘米、形如四方枕头、两端扁平中间厚实的粽子。这虽然已比江浙的三角粽大出不少,但我见过老家壮乡还有三十厘米长的粽子,煮熟后再切成一厘米的薄片,用油将两面煎得金黄,足够一家子吃上好几顿。
四斤糯米六斤馅,母亲如同我儿时记忆中的一样,站在桌子前不断重复着相同的节奏,铺粽叶、包糯米、折叠粽叶、捆上稻绳,五六分钟一个,一小时不过十个,三十来个粽子一包便是半天。而我也像回到了八九岁的年纪,在一旁边学边包,陪她聊天,只不过话题不再是昨天我在学校吃了什么加餐、谁又欺负我了、我又考了多少分……变成了今年公司效益如何、我又做了什么新产品功能、哪个同学结婚生子了、哪个国家的签证下来了、我又看了一本什么书……母亲是个老实传统的人,到现在还在用我五年前送她的LG的翻盖手机,仅限于打打电话,短信都不会发,更别提电脑、微信;知道我在干互联网相关的工作,但永远闹不清产品经理是干什么的,也不知道我设计的应用怎么用;北京就是她去过的最远的地方,也从没想象过走在大洋彼岸的其他国度、身处于其他肤色人群中是怎样一番感受。但她爱听我说,不管有没有听懂,总是一脸懵懂而又满足地听我絮叨着,边听边点头,也没停下手中包粽子的动作。
好友W先生和我说,他很惧怕任何需要回家的节日,因为每次回去总会和父母发生无休止的纠纷与争吵。他向往自由,还想有更多时间做自己想做的事情,看自己想看的世界。而他的父母总嫌弃他挣得少,希望他能像所有“普通人”一样,娶个老婆,生个孩子,过完所有“常规”的一生。所以每一次回家,亲情就像是一场还不清的欠债,像是对自己人生的绑架,他纠结自己是在为了谁而活着,演着一场又一场的闹剧。我说我正好相反,我的父母也很传统,一个小家、一间小屋、一个女儿、几个亲戚,这就是他们生命的全部,没有电影、没有音乐、没有旅行、没有冒险,也没有任何浪漫。他们不曾试图去经历和改变,也不能理解我对无限大世界的渴求,但从不束缚我。我在一条无尽的跑道上越跑越远,自顾自地跑着,有一天我累了停下来,回头一望,却发现他们还在遥远的起点,相互搀扶着,看着我的方向,也许连影子也寻不着了,但还是一脸满足。而我开始踌躇徘徊,我无法压抑内心继续奔跑的渴求,但又害怕有一天远得再也看不见他们。
稻绳捆绑的不仅仅是粽子,而是将他们觉得最好的东西紧紧地包裹起来,让我吃下这最好的心意与美味,然后一切就都美满了。他们没有用亲情绑架我的一生,但这依然是我还不清的债。
包好的粽子,放进大锅倒满水,小火慢煮五到六个小时,翻滚的蒸汽带着竹叶的清香,雾气弥散在厨房里,一锅清水泛出竹叶的绿色,家里的锅小,只能一锅一锅煮,母亲守在锅边,捞出煮熟的粽子,膨胀的糯米被紧捆的稻绳勒出曼妙的曲线。
“快,趁热吃!”“太大了,吃不掉的……”
“那你就分一半。快,先吃,我一会儿就吃。”
妈妈边说边重新往锅里倒水,仔细地码进一个又一个粽子,准备煮第二锅。我在一旁拧开绳子,拆开粽叶,拿起一根干净的稻绳横在粽子的腰间,紧紧一勒分成两半。熟透了的糯米香滑软糯,栗子的清甜、绿豆的沙软,最绝的还是那经过五六小时熬煮、化成油水浸染了糯米的五花肉,但伴着竹叶的清香丝毫不觉油腻。
吃完粽子给外公外婆挂了个电话。电话那头,老人用乡音念叨着:“你妈妈过年前来了一趟,把栗子和粽叶给你拿过去了。粽子包了吗?叶子还能用吗?我们两个老了,今年就不包了,也吃不了多少。今年不回来没关系的,明年,等明年镇子里的房子建好了,我们就出去,你们再回来。我们没事的,挺好的,会等到你回来的。”
我算了算,外公八十五岁,外婆也快八十了。而我却还在让他们等着等着,明年明年,又一年……
我想这天下最丰富的美味与思念,也尽在这一个粽子中了。
……
Introduction

自序
身边许多朋友知道我喜欢吃,也喜欢做菜,觉得既然是个饕客,应该吃过京城不少馆子,所以每次聚会都让我定地方和点菜。但其实在我心里,没有一家馆子能胜过自己家,最好吃的永远是母亲或自己做的菜。
小时候最爱吃母亲做的糖醋排骨。先将白糖炒至焦化,再倒入切成小块的肉排,均匀地裹上琥珀般的糖色,倒入米醋、酱油调色调味,再加入半锅开水小火焖煮。每次母亲做这道菜,放学回来的我,在楼下就能闻到一股浓郁的酸甜香味,总是忍不住大吸一口气,馋得口水都要流出来,赶紧停好自行车,三步并作两步爬到三楼,走进家门刚好赶上母亲把刚出锅的排骨端上饭桌:“回来了,赶紧吃饭吧。”
两斤肉排把盘子堆得满满的,我一个人就能吃掉大半,剩下的
酱汁还能拌一碗米饭。不像餐馆里十寸的盘子,只有七八块排骨,留白越多,装饰越精致,价格却越高。每个人一块刚刚好,如果你喜欢吃想再来一块,也得掐掉这个念想。所以有些美食就像这道糖醋排骨,更适合在家里自己做、自己吃,一盘菜就着一碗米饭,不用顾忌形象,吃到满足为止。
食物这种东西,不仅烹饪的人要用心,品尝的人也要用心,才能体会到最佳的美味。可惜这二者常常陌路。现在许多餐馆都醉心于形式和宣传,而非食物本身。假若到了一个馆子,做饭的人只想赶紧做完订单上的菜,赶紧下班,赶紧领薪水;或像某些大型连锁餐厅,为了保证菜品味道一致、提高效率,中央厨房将半成品配送到各分店,厨师们只是简单再加工就能端上桌,我们所品尝到的,不过是流水线的千篇一律和单一乏味罢了。
所以我喜欢做饭,做给我的家人,做给我的朋友们,或者就只是做给我自己。
“北京太大了,负担太重了,哪里还有时间看书、做饭,享受片刻的闲情啊!”我时常听到这样的抱怨。经常有人误会我是和美食相关的自由职业者,因为看起来实在太像一个“有闲阶级”。但其实我每天都过着从家到公司两点一线的忙碌生活,身为一个互联网产品经理(我们经常自我吐槽“产品狗”),每天沉溺在各种数据报表、产品设计图里,和用户、老板斗智斗勇。公司离家很远,
公交、地铁往返要三个小时,每天早上七点出门,晚上回到家也经常是八九点之后,有时还得抱着电脑干活儿到半夜。
地铁上、办公室里,有时我抬头对上其他人的眼睛,捕获到的却是麻木、迷惘、烦恼或漠然,都在感慨:“现在上班一天天过得特别快,总是忙得要命,但是又不知道自己究竟在忙些什么,迷茫啊……”世界是如此之大,美好的事情是如此之多,我们将自己困在工作和抱怨之中。
我害怕变成这样,所以愈发珍惜属于自己的每一分钟,将它们浪费在最美好的事情上。每天六点起床,先用五分钟给自己煮上一杯咖啡,再烤上一片面包,靠着沙发席地而坐,看一集二十分钟的短剧或是动漫,吃完早餐;上班来回三小时,刚好可以用来看书;晚上回到家只要不是太晚,就做顿简单的晚餐,哪怕只是蔬菜沙拉;每个月空出一个周末,做上十来个小菜,招呼朋友到家中喝酒谈天;每年凑出两个假期,前往未知而又广阔的世界。
厨房对我来说,是一个可以将我从工作中抽离出来的避风港,我只需要专注于如何将眼前的食材做成一盘想要的料理。一个朋友对我说:“人总是要吃饭的,如果有一件事你不得不做,那还不如爱上它。”做饭也是一种创作,需要分析食材的味道,用刀加工、塑形,再加以各种微妙的调味,配以最佳的烹饪方法,煎、蒸、煮、烤、炸,最后还可以多花几分钟时间点缀上蔬菜、枝叶,让原本只
是用于果腹的死物,也添上几分活气与灵性。
我喜欢做家乡的广西菜,也喜欢做西餐和甜点,每次聚会都是中西合璧。很多朋友也喜欢问我每一道菜的做法、背后的故事,比如螺蛳粉里到底有没有螺蛳,南方的粽子为什么是肉的,炖汤放什么食材味道更好,怎么蒸鱼才能去除腥味,《深夜食堂》里的章鱼小香肠是怎么分出六只触须的……
故事说多了,我想不如把它们都写下来。你或许不曾吃过我写的任何一道菜,但背后的一些回忆是我们共同拥有的:初恋的第一块巧克力,母亲煲的一锅汤,围坐在圆桌旁的年夜饭,旅行中偶遇的路边小店……即便不在故土,即便只是擦肩而过的邂逅,即便许多面孔早已被时间冲刷磨平,但味觉依然在记忆中发酵。
我们将它藏在那个名为“过往”的小盒子里,时不时打开闻一闻,唤起味蕾与内心的悸动。

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Brand Jingdong book
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