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Jingdong book

上海吃货:舌尖上的上海

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上海吃货:舌尖上的上海

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指间沙是《上海壹周》等多个杂志报纸的专栏特约作者,无论在民间还是网络都有极高的阅读人气,《舌尖上的上海》还未出版时,已有多方知名作者,媒体人和读者粉丝群,打听这本书的出版进程。可见“美食”这一主题依然是众人关注的热点。这本《舌尖上的上海》,从策划拍摄、撰文编辑到设计出版,长达三年之久,无比细致用心。无论图文都值得读者期待。作者以其独到的味蕾判别和一贯犀利的写作方式,点评出的上海本土特色美食书,也因此显得格外真实诱人。《舌尖上的上海》文笔优美干练。行云流水之间的文字带有淡淡的哀愁。很适合当下的阅读主题——“美食”与“怀旧”。文中列举了十几种上海街头巷尾或入驻酒楼的美食,都属于资深上海吃货不容错过的必点款,在如今渐渐浮躁的社会生活中,注重生活品质成了人们追求的目标。本书以美文美图的形式,系统介绍真正上海本土特色的吃食,

Content Description

一本在深夜阅读时让人猛咽口水倍受折磨的吃货宝典。一本记录下最具上海本地特色的几十种食物味道的美食散记。一本关于上海70、80后青年温暖记忆的心灵鸡汤。一本作者和摄影师花费3年时间,爬过电线杆取景,冒着被挥菜刀的风险,以扫街方式拍摄的近200张弄堂小摊酒楼的实地美食图集。这就是《舌尖上的上海》,满篇细腻到柔软的文和质朴到惊艳的图,能融化每个看过此书之人的味蕾和灵魂。一本记录下最具上海本地特色的几十种食物味道的美食散记。
Author Description

指间沙,复旦大学中文系古典文学硕士,被称为“上海滩最大牌娱评人”,已发表文章数百万字。从小爱好搜集娱乐与美食各种资料,理想是写各种有趣好读又有观点和信息量的书。作为一个资深吃货,计划创作“吃货系列”,与众吃货共勉!
Catalogue

序 吃货本色
雅与欲 蟹传奇
无鸡不欢的时代 白斩鸡
双份团圆 八宝鸭与八宝
第一热面孔 水晶虾仁
先把小日子过起来 肠血油豆腐线粉汤
艰难辰光里的情调 上海西餐
在我最美好的时候 性感小笼包
情同初恋 生煎底细
我就是我 锅贴之辨
生活的本来面目 鲜奶小方
火热的队伍 鲜肉月饼
落地珠散玉碎 蟹壳黄
一觉香甜梦 不只是青团
大牌存在的理由 蝴蝶酥
小身材大味道 油爆虾
块肉余生 红烧肉与小排
咖啡馆底色 炸猪排倒计时
桃花流水 绉纱馄饨
水磨工夫 大汤团与小圆子
圈圈尖尖 大肠面
饭饭之交 粢饭和粢饭糕
奶油上海滩 司忌与白脱小球
附录 路过觅个食
Book Abstract

炸猪排倒计时
咖啡馆底色
炸猪排是几代上海人的集体迷物,很少有上海小囡说到“炸猪排”三个字音调不变欢快的。约某位80后贪吃分子一起去吃炸猪排,他欢快得好似“世博倒计时600天”一样,每天不忘MSN提醒我:“今天距离吃炸猪排还有X天!”
上海人家里,主妇个个都会做炸猪排,那是文明的标志。不会做炸猪排的上海主妇就好比进了洋行却不会英文一样尴尬。相比较血淋淋的牛排,猪排的味道与熟度更易令国人接受。上海超爱猪排,还有道驰名点心叫“排骨年糕”,也是油炸了猪排与年糕蘸甜面酱吃,却已看不出丝毫洋派作风且越做越难吃。
炸猪排到底源自法式、英式还是俄式已不再重要,番菜馆出身的它已经完全本土化。人们注重味觉的切合更甚于血脉的正统。
我小时候不止一次看我妈做炸猪排。大排买来后,先要挨刀,她不遗余力地用刀背拍打大排,务必令其内功尽失、遍体鳞伤、筋肉寸断,最后完成时,一块大排已经撑得有先前的两倍大。接着上浆,鸡蛋、料酒、盐、淀粉等搅拌起来,浸润每块猪排。这黏乎乎的猪排还有重要一步,便是裹面包粉。面包粉颗粒较粗,为了防脱,最好再反复锤呀锤,让面包粉均匀牢固忘我地与猪排融为一体。然后再投入油锅里炸,看油花翻腾,捞起沥干,送入盘中。
看见没有,其实做上海式的炸猪排一点也不难,再潦倒的人家也可以吃这样一餐:豁了边的瓷碗盛着红红的罗宋汤,用竹筷子别扭地夹起炸猪排撕咬。局促,简陋,粗糙,那也是上海的时髦。
同样是洋食东渐,在日式餐馆里也常见炸猪排,那是明治维新后日本人从法式料理学来的。本来油炸的肉很薄,据说一个厨师运用天妇罗技法终于油炸出了比较厚的肉排。但日式炸猪排通常端上桌时已经被切成了细条,淋上的是炸猪排专用沙司(有时是番茄汁代替),边上配卷心菜丝、腌萝卜、味噌汤……还有一片新鲜柠檬!那样的口感,和上海炸猪排可是相当不同的。
这不仅是因为上海的炸猪排不切成干硬老柴的细条,更因为酱料决定洋食口味!炸猪排配黑椒粉、鲜辣粉未尝不可,但不知何时起,我家的炸猪排就和辣酱油结成了对子。上海的炸猪排也因为辣酱油而更有上海色彩,成就代表作。
无论是家里,还是在海派西餐社,甚至是狭小店铺、路边摊,总有那么一瓶神秘的泰康黄牌辣酱油与炸猪排如影随形。小时候一直觉得很奇怪,为何“辣”酱油不怎么辣,相反略酸,风味特异。长大后才知道它压根就是另一种与“辣油”或“酱油”毫无关系的外国调料。这种辣酱油,在广州香港等地也有登场,例如蘸食大颗的山竹牛肉丸。但在上海,辣酱油除了搭配炸猪排外,还在我家蘸过油炸臭豆腐、春卷、生煎、饺子……以其金刚不坏之身,一年四季有机会大显身手。
马路边总有卖炸猪排的,白乎乎的叠起厚厚一摞,和油墩子、臭豆腐在一个油锅里洗澡。其实,有些路边摊卖的“炸猪排”压根不是猪排,也不带骨,只是一块普通的里脊肉被锤得飞薄,均匀地抹上了面包粉,面积幅员辽阔,厚度忽略不计,好似一方帕子,叠起来体积小到能穿过针眼。只是,这种里脊肉扩张版炸猪排又薄又干,老得无法下咽。炸猪排还是需要一定厚度的,面包粉油炸层只是为了锁住肉汁水分不外泄,咬开来里面嫩嫩的鲜软多汁才是上品。这点,自家做的炸猪排与老牌西餐咖啡馆里做的,就好得多。
地道的炸猪排可能在午餐期间就已被群众消灭。下班时打电话过去问,老板娘很麻利地说:“我们早上买肉,中午卖完,保证新鲜!”没得吃了!
……
Introduction

吃货本色

上海并不是随便拐进家馆子就能吃得满意的,但上海人真的很爱吃,稍微美味一点,店门口就排起一条长龙来。这是一座吃货拥挤的城市。

什么是吃货?想起胃弱的夏目漱石,偏偏最爱伤胃的汤年糕和白酒。自己吃不了,就在小说里让主人公连吃四碗天妇罗面。或许只有这种天赋不足的天才吃货,才能将羊羹、幼蕨等描述得如此细腻美妙吧。

所有吃货最值得赞扬的品质之一是:不虚荣。抓紧时机享受面前一盘热气冲鼻的炸猪排,不论用叉子还是筷子。他们特别实事求是,蹩脚的食物是场无法掩饰的灾难,一定要骂出来。吃货还很勤快,为了享受早市的一碗肠血油豆腐线粉汤,挣扎着早起半小时,绕个弯儿拉开老板娘的店门,并且在痛快酣畅之后忍受上班迟到的忐忑。

相比之下,吃货如此捧场,做的人反倒没什么进取心。大城市里做得地道的市井小铺,老一辈做不动就关了,小一辈做得累就停了,原先食客往来的逼仄屋子里不见烟雾萦绕,只有麻将牌哗哗响。

我们熟悉的上海味道,原来在很多人的第一眼里并不那么理所应当。某次我在吃现烘出炉的鲜肉月饼,刚咬下去第一口,就听身边一大妈大惊小怪道:“这个馒头怎么焦掉了?”雷得我比这块鲜肉月饼还外焦里嫩。食物是用来了解这个世界的一种方法,爱上“焦掉的馒头”就是跨过一座桥。

“沪上著名吃货”项斯微初到上海被吓了一大跳,“传说中爱用小碟小盘装菜的上海人在肉上仿佛特别豪放。食堂里肉圆是硕大的一个,我闻所未闻的‘大排’以整块的面貌出现,是彻彻底底的大荤。”爱吃的人都有点幽默感,对生活充满兴趣,敏感而富鉴赏力。

这本书献给上海吃货们,虽然是本小书,却认认真真做了几年,随时随地扛相机扫街,清明奔赴王家沙拍青团,中秋爬电线杆拍鲜肉月饼长队……我发现,和香港或台湾小老板的自豪感与镜头感截然不同,上海店主大多谨慎、低调、抗拒,我们可是见识过某白斩鸡店挥舞的菜刀的!真亲切啊!

这本书采访了我身边爱吃的朋友。他们一大半是八〇后,另一小半是七〇后,都有二三十年吃货生涯,尚未老去的人生终于有些资本怀旧。前段时间传言泰康牌黄标辣酱油要停产,一群年轻人比老一辈更跳脚。还好停产只是暂时,它终究没有离开,如同这本书里的上海美食,足够经典,但仍可寻得见、吃得到。

这多少年来,上海总被冠以“老”字,刻意地被怀旧。其实上海味道不仅是往日情怀里的缥缈虚空。我们这代吃货的美食体验,还不像上代人“惆怅旧欢如梦,别来无处追寻”,想吃就抓紧去吃吧!

希望这本书里的食物馋到你们,祝胃口健旺!

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Jingdong book